New to Busses, not new to RV's or conversions

[DNeid]

Hi all!
I recently made a somewhat impulse decision to buy a 2005 Thomas Built MVP/FE from an auction on GOVDeals about 5 hours away from me. How I got it home is a story for somewhere else in this forum, BUT before we get there I have handful of questions. First, details about my bus: 2005 Thomas Built MVP/FE with the Cat C7, allision AD2000 and Dana axle. She's a flat front bus, and when I got her all the seats were already taken out. Now comes the barrage of questions that I'm sure I could find elsewhere, but some light google searches gave me loose answers.

Q1: Coming north on I-49 from Van Buren Arkansas to about 45 minutes north of Joplin, MO, My bus struggled to maintain speed on some relatively mild hills, almost any hill would slow it down to 55, but at least one hill brough me almost to 40 MPH with the accelerator floored. I was towing just shy of 4000lbs on an otherwise empty and gutted bus. Am I low on power? Or is this expected and I'm just over thinking? Also of note: my check engine light is on which brings me to:

Q2: I am a VERY handy guy especially with computers and tech. Is there a "DIY" Budget friendly way to get diagnostics off these busses? I am aware of how the signals from the bus itself MUST be processed before it can be interpreted by computer or mobile software. Am I going to have to fork out the ~$300 for a diagnostic tool/proper adapters? Or am I better off trying to frequent local diesel shops for diagnostic information? Which brings me to:

Q3: Where in the HE** are we getting our air system fittings and lines? Local hardware stores, auto parts store, and tractor supply are all effectively useless for weekend/quick pickup of these items. Am I just stuck waiting on shipping and/or a diesel shop to be open?

Q4: My bus still has ALL of the lights and devices functional, ambers, reds, stop sign, front swing arm, and white strobe up top. If I seek an RV conversion on the title (see Q5), which of these HAVE to go, and Which ones HAVE to stay? (I'm referring to legality of road use, I know that a TON of these things aren't illegal if used on private property etc, but that's not my primary concern atm)

Q5: My bus came with a bill of sale and auction records ONLY, no title. I have availability to register in either Missouri, or West Virginia, do these (or any other) states allow for a RV conversion title to be applied for in conjunction with a missing title? Or do I have to chase down a missing title first, then apply for the conversion.

Q6: When converting to an RV title, can I get the legal GVWR lowered on the bus? I currently do not have a CDL, and the bus is Air Braked, and 36k GVWR, so CDL is required, is it possible to have the registration/title changed to make it a non-CDL required vehicle?

Q7: This one I'm positive I'll find in the forums somewhere, but has anyone found a digital dash or conversion kit for this or similar busses? I have a few gauges with non functioning lights, broken mounting hardware, or just slow/sticky movement, so If I'm already replacing most of the gauges, I might as well go digital.


Y'all *shouldn't get many conversion specific questions from me as I have been following TONS of forums and YouTube builds of skoolies for YEARS now, so between personal research, this forum, and previously obtained content, I should be okay on that front,

 

[s2mikon]

Q1 Your Cat C-7 is what is referred to as an ACERT engine. Anytime it sees a problem it will de-rate itself to prevent self-destruction. I worked at a freight company that had C7, C13 and a few C15 trucks. All of them had issues. The C13 was the worst. EGR coolers would leak and hydraulic the engine. The higher the HP rating the faster they would self-destruct. On a hot day they would de-rate going up a hill. If your CEL is on it more than likely de-rated. We ran C7's in some FL-70 trucks that were used for domestic propane delivery and they hated the hills and mountains. Why they bought them I don't know. They did good on the flats. You need to find out why the the CEL is on first. It may just have a bad sensor or sensor circuit.

 

[DNeid]

Thats kinda what I was hoping. Because it made a 350 mile trip hauling my Maverick on a dolly without any strange noises, overheats, or anything crazy aside from being slow in hills. So im hoping its just a sensor or some wiring.

 

[s2mikon]

The C7's we had were 300 horse units and running about 30K loaded and 20K empty. We had a lot of overheating issues in the summer due the fan not engaging until 230. That would cause it to derate. It drove the drivers nuts. Then there were the re-gen issues. I wanted to rip all of that crap off but the fines were a bear.

 

[s2mikon]

Q3. Carquest / Special Needs auto parts have them and O'Really? have them. Buy an asortment of ends and hose and keep them around. I did not try Amazon. They are availible in push-on style and ferrel and nut style. Brass is expensive now but if you own one of these things you have to keep some parts with you. Also buy some line splice fittings too.

 

[DNeid]

The C7's we had were 300 horse units and running about 30K loaded and 20K empty. We had a lot of overheating issues in the summer due the fan not engaging until 230. That would cause it to derate. It drove the drivers nuts. Then there were the re-gen issues. I wanted to rip all of that crap off but the fines were a bear.

I'm "lucky" mine is a non DEF unit, so no regen issues for me, and ive been hearing the fan kick on long before it gets to 200. Or at least I think its the fan, it certainly sounds like it.

 

[DNeid]

Q3. Carquest / Special Needs auto parts have them and O'Really? have them. Buy an asortment of ends and hose and keep them around. I did not try Amazon. They are availible in push-on style and ferrel and nut style. Brass is expensive now but if you own one of these things you have to keep some parts with you. Also buy some line splice fittings too.

My local O'Reillys didnt have any air brake stuff at either location. They had some M-M barbs, but thats it.

I've definitely seen the kits online, but was hoping to avoid investing in a personal scrounge, as anytime I go somewhere with my bus im always going to have another vehicle with me, sometimes just a honda grom, but more often than not my daily as well, so swining by a parts store may be easier than keeping a kit. But alas, if stores aren't reliably stocking lines and fittings, ill have to keep stuff on hand

 

[#1FordFan]

Q3 air brake lines. All rubber hoses in the air brake system will be 5000 lb psi rated hyd hose. As most likely the fittings will be also.

Q4 clearance light stay.——- upper big amber and red lights can go as does any stop sign (if equipped) or crossing arm. I would NOT GET CHOP happy with any wires.
Many a conversation. on this forum have started with “no Start,… I only removed _____feet of wire,…..”

Q6 there should be no need to lower the GVWR since once it is converted to a RV. NO (Real) CDL is required. However check with your home state as you might need either a std auto lic or a higher grade “CDL like” lic.
Some states do require it. I be heard TD and ca do.

 

[SkyMaster]

Check with hose and rubber companies, my local shop keep them in stock or can custom make them to any application.

 

[ewo1]

Q6 there should be no need to lower the GVWR since once it is converted to a RV. NO (Real) CDL is required. However check with your home state as you might need either a std auto lic or a higher grade “CDL like” lic.
Some states do require it. I be heard TD and ca do.

I would double check this info but ... for what it is worth, a list of states requiring non commercial class B cdl.

Under 26k GVW but you do have air brakes?

RV driver license requirements - State Listings

Here is a listing I found showing what is required from each state to drive an RV. From my basic non professional understanding, what your HOME state requirement is , and the tag on the bus should be from your home state, follows you across the country as you drive away into the sunset...

www.skoolie.net

 

[DNeid]

Update!

i got a diagnostic kit from amazon, and some new fittings, still need to get some new hoses, but for now she holds air a **** of a lot better.

Turns out my intake air heater is shorted, and was throwing a code. And thats my only code! Later this week ill stop by my local CAT dealer and see what outrageous price they charge for that heater before I buy something off ebay.

All of my research shows that ill need to apply for a new title on the bus, and then do an RV conversion, which helps because ill likely not be meeting the RV conversion requirements before im ready to take this thing on its first trip. Navigating the insurance is gonna be a bit confusing and annoying, but im sure ill manage.