Northern US/Canada skooliers - Windows question

[N'om'ad]

I'm gonna lift my roof 12"-18" and I want to raise the window sill height 6" too so they don't disappear down behind countertops, etc. I'm 6'1" so I'd like the heads to be higher too. Wondering about re-using the originals though, even with raising them, they wouldn't be high enough for me to see out of, horizontally, if I'm standing up. I could get over that if the original windows will do but I'm concerned about condensation (let alone draughts) in winter - how do yours perform when it's cold out?

Also, has anyone used regular double-glazed units and direct-glazed them into the original wndow openings? Obviously they would need to be of toughened glass on both panes and mounted in such a way that no stress was placed on the unit - thick gaskets all round, etc

Thanks

 

[N'om'ad]

Nobody?!.. All 53 people who viewed this already have no experience to share?

 

[Twigg-SKO]

Nobody?!.. All 53 people who viewed this already have no experience to share?

You are asking about a tough area to give advice.

The safe advice is to simply say "Don't do it". Unless the glass is tempered and approved to DOT standards, it's probably not okay in a vehicle.

Glass made for domestic or commercial use is generally not safe in vehicles. In addition, the frames are not built to be fitted into very thin walls, so that might take some thought.

I'd be looking for double-pane RV windows in that situation.

 

[Whatthefak]

I'm in the same boat as you man, I'm going to raise my roof from below the windows and was thinking about keeping some or getting better glass in some, even plexi is probably better in the cold than single pane bus glass

I was watching to see if you got good answers

 

[PNW_Steve]

I lived full time for 6+ years in a converted bus. Traveled all over the US and a bit of Canada.

I set out to follow good weather. Sometimes I was successful. Other times not so much. Minneapolis in February and Las Vegas in August didn't quite fit the plan. Life happens.

I learned a lot.

In my new bus I am insulating with as much closed cell spray foam as I can and installing double pane RV windows.

In hot climates the insulation and double pane windows are good for comfort. In cold climates they are good for comfort and will greatly reduce condensation problems.

I would say: if you are building a "metal tent" then keep the bus windows. If you are building a "rolling home" lose the bus windows and install RV windows.

 

[N'om'ad]

You are asking about a tough area to give advice

I wasn't actually asking for advice - I was asking for stories of real world experience

Unless the glass is tempered and approved to DOT standards, it's probably not okay in a vehicle.

I see regular house windows in tiny homes all the time - is there a difference between requirements for a trailer and a powered vehicle?

Glass made for domestic or commercial use is generally not safe in vehicles.

Tempered/toughened glass, used in buildings everywhere where it's required - doors, windows below a certain height above floor, etc - is the same thing as auto glass (excluding the windshield which is laminated). I don't know if there's a different standard for each but if there is I can't see why there would be a material difference in performance. Both are just required to shatter into small pieces rather than large sharp pieces.

In addition, the frames are not built to be fitted into very thin walls, so that might take some thought.

Maybe I didn't make it clear enough that I'm thinking of just the double-glazed unit, no frame. Direct glazed into the existing window openings with the appropriate materials, spacing, etc

I'd be looking for double-pane RV windows in that situation.

I would be too if they weren't so ridiculously over-priced, and I kinda like the idea of the super-clean, simple look you'd get glazing the existing openings with no frame.

 

[N'om'ad]

I would say: if you are building a "metal tent" then keep the bus windows. If you are building a "rolling home" lose the bus windows and install RV windows.

That's a good way to summarise it!

 

[ACamper-SKO]

Not many people do it, House windows are for houses, You could try it and let us know how it works

I would imagine buses are designed for some flex, not sure how regular house windows would handle it.

House windows are usually designed to sit under an eve, on a bus they could have 55-65mph rain for hours hitting them from an angle.

I see regular house windows in tiny homes all the time - is there a difference between requirements for a trailer and a powered vehicle?

Most "tiny homes are designed to be dropped off in a yard on a sunny day. or designed by an idiot with no clue going off of Pintest pictures.

 

[bigmackone]

In order for a vehicle to pass federal and most state inspections, the windshield must be marked AS1. All other windows must be marked AS2 or AS1.

No, trailers are not required to have this. You cannot occupy a trailer while moving down the road.

 

[N'om'ad]

In order for a vehicle to pass federal and most state inspections, the windshield must be marked AS1. All other windows must be marked AS2 or AS1.

No, trailers are not required to have this. You cannot occupy a trailer while moving down the road.

I'm in Canada - I think the only inspection she's going to get is when I re-register her as an RV, and then, from what I understand, they're only looking to see that the required fittings to be considered an RV are in place.

Trailers - that makes sense

 

[joeblack5]

I would convert the title to rv first to avoid an overzealous inspector and then use tempered home windows from Florida storm area. They can handle a little more abuse. I would not worry to much about the lawfulness of all of this...probably 80 % of our diy stuff would not pass any federal test. Lol

Good luck
Later j

 

[Brewerbob]

I like the skoolie look. I will also be raising my roof and hate to lose the OEM windows. All of the RV windows I've seen (admittedly not very many) are 1) rounded corners 2) look like RV windows and 3) are STUPID expensive.

Has anyone looked at getting OEM frames double paned? Clones or retrofitting is probably more expensive than the gold plated RV windows.

 

[Whatthefak]

I do like the double pane directly into the opening idea.
Might try a glass shop, just having them build tempered units for you

 

[Brewerbob]

I do like the double pane directly into the opening idea.
Might try a glass shop, just having them build tempered units for you

I dunno how that's going to work. You're going to need some kind of framing. The OEM frames could probably be used if going for single pane and single piece (non-opening). I'd want mine to or at least some of them to open.

At least the dimensions are stupid simple; 24x24 with 12x24 glass. Well, except for (some) of the emergency windows. B.B. likes to use two different size windows. Not even all E-windows are the same size.

 

[N'om'ad]

I dunno how that's going to work. You're going to need some kind of framing. The OEM frames could probably be used if going for single pane and single piece (non-opening). I'd want mine to or at least some of them to open.

At least the dimensions are stupid simple; 24x24 with 12x24 glass. Well, except for (some) of the emergency windows. B.B. likes to use two different size windows. Not even all E-windows are the same size.

I've not got my bus yet so I can't examine the frames or opening but if you couldn't use the existing 'as-is' or slightly modified then fabricating simple frames out of aluminum L section or similar is probably no big deal.

24x24 is the dimension of the inside of the frame? The rib to rib dimension I've measured on BB's is 28 or 35"..

 

[Twigg-SKO]

I've not got my bus yet so I can't examine the frames or opening but if you couldn't use the existing 'as-is' or slightly modified then fabricating simple frames out of aluminum L section or similar is probably no big deal.

24x24 is the dimension of the inside of the frame? The rib to rib dimension I've measured on BB's is 28 or 35"..

One of the most irritating features of buses is that the ribs aren't 24" on center.

That would make cladding the inside so much easier.

 

[Brewerbob]

then fabricating simple frames out of aluminum L section or similar is probably no big deal.

Times 26 windows!!

24x24 is the dimension of the inside of the frame? The rib to rib dimension I've measured on BB's is 28 or 35"..

This. The glass is 24 and 32.

 

[Yukon Cornelius-SKO]

Are you travelling all over or staying in and around Revie?
What are you plans for heating?

Yukon

 

[N'om'ad]

Are you travelling all over or staying in and around Revie?
What are you plans for heating?

Yukon

That's going to depend on work & whim.. I might head south or west when it gets cold or maybe hang around some years.

Going to have a wood-burning stove for sure with a back-up heat source in the bed-end if required for overnight.

 

[N'om'ad]

Times 26 windows!!

Assuming I do all of them. Would like to keep the living area fully-glazed but the shower, toilet and bed-end are probably going to be mostly sheeted with the odd window here and there. I'm a carpenter - used to repetitive tasks..

This. The glass is 24 and 32.

Thanks, though can't figure out why the glass would be 4" less than r-r for one size and 3" less for the larger.. ?