Painted Finally....

[Timeline]

Well that was a big job and I'm really glad to be finished with painting my bus.

I used Sherwin Williams direct to metal industrial enamel, white gloss on the roof and semi-gloss on the body. I rolled the roof (2 coats) and sprayed the rest with a cheap hvlp. Sherwin Williams said to add no more than 10% thinner (mineral spirits) to the mix for spraying so thats what I added. The finish has a slight orange peal not bad, plenty nice enough for this job. It took 2 gallons for the roof (and matching bumpers) and 3 gallons for the body on this 38' bus. Prep work a **** of a lot of prep work...

 

[Timeline]

 

[Timeline]

I used several spay cans of adhesive primer on the fiberglass after sanding off some spiderweb cracks. Replaced 20 light fixtures with NOS type fixtures as the old ones were sun bleached and the gaskets were shot.

 

[nikitis]

Good work, now go enjoy it.

 

[peakbus]

Looks good! I think orange peel is to be expected with that arrangement. I've painted 2 busses with industrial enamel, the 1st with an HVLP, the 2nd with an airless. The HVLP gave me an orange peel texture so when I did it again, I used the airless as recommended. It began clogging immediately so I had to back-roll. Eventually I just gave up on the sprayer and the rolling turned out to be a similar finish. You'll be the only one to notice, and with time, you'll notice less.

 

[jbeech]

Nice job. Well done.

 

[Mercuric Mind]

Lookin minty! nice job!

 

[Timeline]

Thanks guys!

 

[Slapdash]

Looks great! I hear ya on the prep. Sooo much work, and I only have a shortie. Our toughest spots were the school letters and our rear end had reflective tape so thick and nasty I thought about burning it off.

Anywho, glad it worked out well! Enjoy!

 

[fauxname11]

Well that was a big job and I'm really glad to be finished with painting my bus.

I used Sherwin Williams direct to metal industrial enamel, white gloss on the roof and semi-gloss on the body. I rolled the roof (2 coats) and sprayed the rest with a cheap hvlp. Sherwin Williams said to add no more than 10% thinner (mineral spirits) to the mix for spraying so thats what I added. The finish has a slight orange peal not bad, plenty nice enough for this job. It took 2 gallons for the roof (and matching bumpers) and 3 gallons for the body on this 38' bus. Prep work a **** of a lot of prep work...View attachment 1330160

It’s pretty!

 

[TheHubbardBus]

That's gorgeous! I LOVE that color

 

[Timeline]

About 2 months after painting the bus it had become really dirty, with dark stains from the fall leaves, dust, black mildew. The paint was very hard to wash had to scrub and scrub with a large floor broom and Dawn. I could not believe how hard it was to get it clean. Once I got it nice and clean I gave it a coat of Turtle Wax ceramic, I'll have to apply more ceramic wax every 9 month or so... It's easy to wash the bus clean now that it's waxed. Thought I ought to add this to the thread F.Y.I..

 

[jbeech]

It helps a painted finish resist staining a 'lot' if it's compounded smooth a month or so after painting. Big job with a bus.

 

[Mr P]

^ depending on paint type, right?

 

[jbeech]

Yes, I buff out all paint finishes.

2-part epoxy? Yes, I buff it out although there's no need to wait weeks as it cures by chemical reaction and I have compounded this after just six hours with excellent results.

What about common automotive paints, say an enamel with reducer. Yes, I always buff these finishes also and here I give them a month or more before doing the job to ensure it's really fully dried.

Lacquers? Yes, I always buff them out with compound before final waxing. For example, I have an antique Rolls Royce which gets compounded after spraying a damaged panel.

But what about latex finishes, these are sprayed quite economically, should they be buffed out also? Yes, latex finishes, also!

See how this turns out in this very brief YouTube clip where the wing for Micro Mong (a small biplane), which covered in fabric (and a far more delicate job of compounding than a hard metal surface) where you see before and after compounding. Anyway, compounding will, as always, makes a huge difference. Remember, the basic purpose of compounding is to smooth the resulting finish. And not compounding allows the finish to stain easily.

So to your question, I don't know of any painted finish I wouldn't compound then wax (exception being paint rolled on the walls of your home).
--
Respectfully,
John

 

[nikitis]

How many coats of clear did you put on it? Clear coats help it clean easier.

Also the color you chose is great looking but it's also bright so it's gonna show dirt easier.

All buses no matter the color get the same amount of dirt on them, but only lighter colors show it more unfortunately. The white on my current bus roof looks dirty really fast all the time. but the lower half that's dark green never looks dirty (It is but it doesn't look like it) cause it hides it better.

I'm probably gonna put 2 coats of clear when I do mine.

 

[Ozbozz57]

Yes, I buff out all paint finishes.

2-part epoxy? Yes, I buff it out although there's no need to wait weeks as it cures by chemical reaction and I have compounded this after just six hours with excellent results.

What about common automotive paints, say an enamel with reducer. Yes, I always buff these finishes also and here I give them a month or more before doing the job to ensure it's really fully dried.

Lacquers? Yes, I always buff them out with compound before final waxing. For example, I have an antique Rolls Royce which gets compounded after spraying a damaged panel.

But what about latex finishes, these are sprayed quite economically, should they be buffed out also? Yes, latex finishes, also!

See how this turns out in this very brief YouTube clip where the wing for Micro Mong (a small biplane), which covered in fabric (and a far more delicate job of compounding than a hard metal surface) where you see before and after compounding. Anyway, compounding will, as always, makes a huge difference. Remember, the basic purpose of compounding is to smooth the resulting finish. And not compounding allows the finish to stain easily.

So to your question, I don't know of any painted finish I wouldn't compound then wax (exception being paint rolled on the walls of your home).
--
Respectfully,
John

I've found urethane automotive paint to be literally impervious to staining. The vehicles I've painted over the years with catalyzed urethane have received no polishing. ('90 Chevy service van, '49 Chevy Stylemaster, and current bus, '05 Thomas). I painted my bus 7 years ago. It is always outdoors, gets washed about twice a year, and still has the same color and gloss it had the day I painted it in 2018. Urethane paint is HARD. Can you polish it? Sure, but why? Pic is camping in March 2025.

 

[Ozbozz57]

View attachment 1330180View attachment 1330183

It looks beautiful. Nice work!

 

[TheHubbardBus]

I've found urethane automotive paint to be literally impervious to staining. The vehicles I've painted over the years with catalyzed urethane have received no polishing. ('90 Chevy service van, '49 Chevy Stylemaster, and current bus, '05 Thomas). I painted my bus 7 years ago. It is always outdoors, gets washed about twice a year, and still has the same color and gloss it had the day I painted it in 2018. Urethane paint is HARD. Can you polish it? Sure, but why? Pic is camping in March 2025.

You bus is beautiful.
This thread really has me regretting not spraying our bus lol.

 

[Timeline]

It helps a painted finish resist staining a 'lot' if it's compounded smooth a month or so after painting. Big job with a bus.

Thanks! May do that in the future, yeah it would be a big job. I have corrected a couple people who said building a skoolie is a big job, actually it's a lot of big jobs!