It's not a 'trick'. It's a straight-forward diagnostic procedure designed to help find the root cause of the problem. It's a process anyone qualified to post recommendations on topics such as this one would likely already be familiar with. Then again, if your answer to all of life's problems is "install a battery cut-off switch", I can see how doing the job right might appear unnecessarily laborious.
 
It's not a 'trick'. It's a straight-forward diagnostic procedure designed to help find the root cause of the problem. It's a process anyone qualified to post recommendations on topics such as this one would likely already be familiar with. Then again, if your answer to all of life's problems is "install a battery cut-off switch", I can see how doing the job right might appear unnecessarily laborious.
What I'm saying is you are chasing ghosts. This isn't like a car where there's a drain that shouldn't be. I'm saying it's quite common to have constant drain from the ECM on buses. So common in fact that all buses out there do this by design.

This isn't some fluke or screw up in electrical wiring, they literally designed these buses to be this way. The ECM's have KAM which stands for Keep Alive Memory. It needs the constant drain and on older ECM's especially it drains batteries faster than newer ECM's. It doesn't make sense for him to go tracing hundreds of wires to only find out it's the ECM pulling the draw, and the end result is gonna be to add a battery disconnect. I'm saving him time by directing him to the conclusion he's going to run into. And yes we can say that with confidence given how many of us have had to do this with our buses and historically through time.
 
What I'm saying is you are chasing ghosts. This isn't like a car where there's a drain that shouldn't be. I'm saying it's quite common to have constant drain from the ECM on buses. So common in fact that all buses out there do this by design.
And what I'm saying is you don't know what you're talking about. What I'm saying is that every single post of yours is an attempt to cast yourself as some kind of expert on everything, when in fact, you're not. What I'm saying is that if you'd accept the fact that you're not an ever-flowing source of eternal knowledge, and actually know when to STFU and listen to people who know more than you do on subjects you're deficient in, you might actually learn something. But you're too intent on being the 'go-to' guy on skoolie.net to humble yourself to that point. What I'm saying is that you have - and continue to - push knowledgeable people away from this site due to your overbearing attitude and failure to accept the fact you don't - actually - know everything.

I don't care what you say. You're straight-up wrong. The OP's bus is dying in <= 2 days time from a fully charged battery bank. That's NOT NORMAL. And even if it was - just assuming that's the entirety of the issue, without bothering to perform proper diagnostics, is simply not the way things are done by anyone calling themselves a professional (or even a competent amateur). You are in absolutely no position to make assumptions about the scenario the OP describes, and the act of making assumptions is - to people that actually do this sort of work for a living (hint, hint) - proof positive that you're not the right person for the job. Because a pro wouldn't make assumptions. A pro wouldn't be so lazy and self-assured as to just guess that 'x' is the culprit when the entire alphabet could be to blame.

Unless I'm mistaken, you have exactly one bus, and it's still in the early stages of construction, correct?. Exactly where do you come by all this experience and knowledge you purport to embody? In literally every thread, you use the word 'us', while actually arguing with 'us' to prove yourself right! Pro Tip: I, along with every other poster here, IS 'US', and unlike some of 'US', I actually have a professional background in the area of interest here. That's how I know good advice from bad. Ewo1, jollyroger, (and others) have given solid, actionable, easy-to-follow advice that could actually help the OP both solve their problem while educating themselves in the process. In contrast, you're giving them a likely recipe for roadside despair, while teaching them nothing - and in the process demeaning the people actually serving a useful function. And yes - that's exactly what you're doing... demeaning them. Just because you use civil language while doing so doesn't make it any less condescending.

The idea that a school bus, created to transport children, and sit in a large lot with a bunch of other school buses (over the weekend) when not in use, was designed to die in <= 2 days is nonsense. Straight-up nonsense. It's a preposterous notion on it's very face. They were designed to be charged every Monday morning? Designed to deep-cycle the starting battery bank every 2 days? Ridiculous. Literally ridiculous. Was East Penn involved in these design decisions?

Just to end this much-needed rant - you say you're saving the OP time by avoiding him spending countless hours chasing a problem just to end up at the conclusion you somehow know from thousands of miles away. Well... couldn't the first test he performed be one to rule out the ECM? Mind blowing, aint it?

Don't bother to respond (even though I know you can't help yourself). I'm a week into returning to this forum and I already can't take it. Add me to the long and ever-growing list of people you've disenfranchised. Pretty soon 'us' will be just you. Enjoy your echo chamber.
 
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It is both frustrating and sometimes entertaining to read one poster on our fourm who knows very little but comes off as an expert here daily... I still chuckle about the day he found out diesel engines don't have spark plugs after he was sure it was the problem someone was having.

The core group of actually helpful and knowledgeable folks here is drying up here and that is sad, though I can't say why, maybe they get frustrated with all this Used Bovine Feed too.

Some days I can barely resist posting a rant about this guessing know-it-all who fills our forum with Bologna Sandwiches e-v-e-r-y d-a-y. Today is not one of those days.
 
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And what I'm saying is you don't know what you're talking about. What I'm saying is that every single post of yours is an attempt to cast yourself as some kind of expert on everything, when in fact, you're not. What I'm saying is that if you'd accept the fact that you're not an ever-flowing source of eternal knowledge, and actually know when to STFU and listen to people who know more than you do on subjects you're deficient in, you might actually learn something. But you're too intent on being the 'go-to' guy on skoolie.net to humble yourself to that point. What I'm saying is that you have - and continue to - push knowledgeable people away from this site due to your overbearing attitude and failure to accept the fact you don't - actually - know everything.

I don't care what you say. You're straight-up wrong. The OP's bus is dying in <= 2 days time from a fully charged battery bank. That's NOT NORMAL. And even if it was - just assuming that's the entirety of the issue, without bothering to perform proper diagnostics, is simply not the way things are done by anyone calling themselves a professional (or even a competent amateur). You are in absolutely no position to make assumptions about the scenario the OP describes, and the act of making assumptions is - to people that actually do this sort of work for a living (hint, hint) - proof positive that you're not the right person for the job. Because a pro wouldn't make assumptions. A pro wouldn't be so lazy and self-assured as to just guess that 'x' is the culprit when the entire alphabet could be to blame.

Unless I'm mistaken, you have exactly one bus, and it's still in the early stages of construction, correct?. Exactly where do you come by all this experience and knowledge you purport to embody? In literally every thread, you use the word 'us', while actually arguing with 'us' to prove yourself right! Pro Tip: I, along with every other poster here, IS 'US', and unlike some of 'US', I actually have a professional background in the area of interest here. That's how I know good advice from bad. Ewo1, jollyroger, (and others) have given solid, actionable, easy-to-follow advice that could actually help the OP both solve their problem while educating themselves in the process. In contrast, you're giving them a likely recipe for roadside despair, while teaching them nothing - and in the process demeaning the people actually serving a useful function. And yes - that's exactly what you're doing... demeaning them. Just because you use civil language while doing so doesn't make it any less condescending.

The idea that a school bus, created to transport children, and sit in a large lot with a bunch of other school buses (over the weekend) when not in use, was designed to die in <= 2 days is nonsense. Straight-up nonsense. It's a preposterous notion on it's very face. They were designed to be charged every Monday morning? Designed to deep-cycle the starting battery bank every 2 days? Ridiculous. Literally ridiculous. Was East Penn involved in these design decisions?

Just to end this much-needed rant - you say you're saving the OP time by avoiding him spending countless hours chasing a problem just to end up at the conclusion you somehow know from thousands of miles away. Well... couldn't the first test he performed be one to rule out the ECM? Mind blowing, aint it?

Don't bother to respond (even though I know you can't help yourself). I'm a week into returning to this forum and I already can't take it. Add me to the long and ever-growing list of people you've disenfranchised. Pretty soon 'us' will be just you. Enjoy your echo chamber.
I will reply because it's something you and the other duo need to hear. First off, I never claimed to be an expert. That's an assumption made by you. I do study this forum heavily. I offer sound advice to people. I've taken the time to read the majority of posts here going back 4-6 years unlike many others. There's a lot of collective knowledge to be had and compiling it all and finding it is a challenge. I've also helped a lot of people along in their journey, I could really care less what 3 old farts have to say about me. The bickering and attacks on people who help is why people are leaving. (Also repetitiveness of posts. Many people post asking the same basic questions, and the old timers get bored.) And right now I'm using "I" a lot because in my general posts as you pointed out, I do say "Us" collectively because I'm a part of this site, and the knowledge presented isn't originally mine in most cases.

We've already had this discussion on another post about the blind leading the blind on this forum, I suggest you do a search for that and you'll have more context. But the facts are nobody on this site has the 100% correct answers on everything. There are real mechanics on here contribute regularly, and there are some who claim to be and don't contribute. So often times it is the Blind leading the blind. But we do have a decent grasp on what works vs doesn't work or doesn't work as well. We're expanding our collection of official documentation. The information will get more accurate in time. It's better to contribute rather than flame. We're all in a search for answers. You can contribute, converse, have a good time, or leave, You're free to do just that. I've made many friends on here, and will continue to offer decent advice to those who seek it. Many of those Old timers you mention have provided me their phone numbers to keep in contact, and I call them regularly for advice, and also provide mine in kind.

You could take the time to address more issues and be constructive yourself instead of tearing people down. To be fair you did offer a good option in this post. I have no issue with that. I do have issue when someone tries to call out contributors to the site. I've rarely even seen you on this board until the last week. You used to post a lot back in the day. The point is I'm here quite regularly and have been for the last 2.5 years and I do get to many of the posts first before others. I'm not gonna make people wait longer than they have to if I can offer some modicum of knowledge that will help them out or get started. Others can respond when they can, I'm not stopping them nor am I contradicting them. I do defend my points and methods though if attacked and I feel I'm right on a point. And when I'm wrong I do openly admit it and say go with the other guys opinion it's better. I'm still learning as well and I have no problem stating that.

Regarding my build since you mentioned it, is taking time to complete, partly because I'm documenting it more than most do on this site and making Youtube videos on methods and fail areas to help people avoid pitfalls and visually demonstrating why things fail or work. I've designed 3D Stencil files for people to make their own parts free of charge through 3D Printing on parts that are hard to get or expensive or non existent new. Provided how to's on unique modifications I've yet to see anyone do here. I'm currently showcasing a different uncommon way to do a roof raise series on a Thomas for those wishing to keep their original windows, and use 2/3 less metal cutting their costs by 1/3rd. I want others to have other options instead of the same method everyone else uses. Point being I contribute a lot to this site. If you are tired of seeing me, too bad, I'm not going anywhere and may even increase my presence. I've been contemplating setting up a Bus wiki where people can contribute facts about part numbers, wiring diagrams, bus models, quirks etc because the site admin doesn't want to do a wiki. It'll also make it easier to point new guys to a solid source rather than trying to find 5-6 year old posts with people who are no longer with us to ask questions to.

Secondly, If you read my posts above, I wasn't against the two solutions provided. Somehow your hatred towards me blinds you. I even stated those were two great solutions, but you don't lock onto that statement. I provided a 3rd option in case they didn't want to deal with it. You need to understand that Many who come here do not have the mechanical skills needed, and sometimes certain options scare people or they don't have the skills to try what you are suggesting. You could give them the exact directions and they are still intimidated by it the job that lays before them. I provided an option for those people who are in that class. In this example, we have 2 great electrical options to post, and then an option that's simple and effective. I let them choose what they want to do. The reason new people come here is because they do not know what options they have. But by all means present solutions, I have no ill will towards others doing so and in fact have always encouraged it. I'm not attacking anyone's solutions,

There are plenty of posts where I do not post on because I have no idea about the topic. Air conditioning setups is one of them. I've read forum posts about sizing, insulation, and bus sizes in relation to AC selection, BTU's, etc. so I will divulge what other posters have stated, Including professional builders, but if you asked how to hook one of those things up, I'd have no clue, and I wouldn't even begin to comment on that post unless it was me asking a question on how to do it. (That will be coming up btw, because I do want a mini split setup. I already know the size I need for my size bus thanks to past contributors here but I've not really seen anyone accurately document the process of a 3rd party mini-split installation how to. Youtube videos on the subject is always about someone hiring a professional to set it up. Just another example of knowledge lacking on this forum. I may have to just try to install it blind, and document it so people see the pitfalls I fall into, but I would take that step into it for others to learn. Blind leading the Blind, but we do get results in the end.

Since you mentioned my one bus build which is in progress, you don't have to have experienced everything in life. Some things you can learn from books, instructional videos, teachers, professionals etc. Are you stating people can't learn from reading or others? I would assume you do know people can learn without experience. But your comment makes one wonder.

And whether you like it or not, or may be you just don't like that it came from me who knows, but the 3rd option I presented, it's still a viable technical solution. I would ask "Do you believe a disconnect will stop a battery drain? Because if you answer no, then I wouldn't trust advice coming from you. It certainly will stop a drain of the battery. Does it leave a potential problem if it wasn't related ECM? Yes, if they do not use the disconnect after exiting. It's not lost on me that he should probably fix the offending issue if it's not the ECM, but there's a possibility he may just want to band-aid it for a later time to fix. We're not mind readers. So the 3rd option is still an "option" that will work for him. Whether it's the best option is not really why he's here. He's here for options to be presented. Regardless of my skill in the matter or yours or anyone elses, it doesn't matter. Present the options, let the OP decide the path please.

We would appreciate if the Original Poster of the question would let us know what he would do given the 3 options provided so we can assist him in whichever path he/she chooses to go down. (Also sorry this thread had to go this direction.) I've said my peace.
 
NIKITS.
chiltons manual haynes manual even these days google will have wiring diagrams or **** just ask on here for help.
i have been turning wrenches for over 30 years (have manuals from the 70,s and even a few audel manuals from 1912) and have never struggled to find a specific wiring diagram.( well thats a lie because this cutaway i bought my wife gave me a hard time because collins midbus didnt print a wiring diagram anywhere) but simple enough if its a problem take the time to figure it out dealership diagram or not?
go figure on the short bus the turn signal power comes from the under hood fuse box fuse marked ignition E not the under seat fuse box fuse marked turn signal running lights?
how did i figure that out without a wiring diagram?
making excuses never solves a problem it just delays a problem from getting fixed.
either you want it or you dont?
 
Nikitis, you routinely make claims that are simply not true. To summarize the above claim, you said normal ECM draw would drain batteries quickly (buses were meant to be driven almost daily). That, as Hubbard pointed out, is not true. The only way the ECM (or like "computer" could drain two moderately healthy batteries in two or less days would be if it was SEVERELY defective. Like, nearly smoking hot. It would probably smell hot.

Your excuse of "I didn't claim to be an expert" is a cheap cop-out. You claim that you are repeating the gleanings of this forum MIGHT actually be the reason you are posting inaccurate things: Your source could be defective.

And, since you brought up the "blind leading the blind" (as I termed it), I'll point out something. You claimed "we're all blind". Well, to that I say a resounding NOPE. While I'll admit to not having perfect vision (not knowing everything about...everything), I do know enough about general auto/diesel/electrical/hydraulic/refrigeration issues to be able to at times "see" much clearer than some folks who post here (regarding those issues).
 
Nikitis, you routinely make claims that are simply not true. To summarize the above claim, you said normal ECM draw would drain batteries quickly (buses were meant to be driven almost daily). That, as Hubbard pointed out, is not true. The only way the ECM (or like "computer" could drain two moderately healthy batteries in two or less days would be if it was SEVERELY defective. Like, nearly smoking hot. It would probably smell hot.

Your excuse of "I didn't claim to be an expert" is a cheap cop-out. You claim that you are repeating the gleanings of this forum MIGHT actually be the reason you are posting inaccurate things: Your source could be defective.

And, since you brought up the "blind leading the blind" (as I termed it), I'll point out something. You claimed "we're all blind". Well, to that I say a resounding NOPE. While I'll admit to not having perfect vision (not knowing everything about...everything), I do know enough about general auto/diesel/electrical/hydraulic/refrigeration issues to be able to at times "see" much clearer than some folks who post here (regarding those issues).
It could still be true if the batteries are already weakened and less likely to hold a charge being damaged from a longer stent of ECM drain prior. Future charges may be dead enough to actually die in 2 days.
 
My experience with three different buses that I have bought and converted is that all have the parasitic draw. On all three that I have worked on I solved the problem by removing all the school district added crap that you don't need on a conversion anyway. The GPS, cameras, the anti theft things that track the bus, EVERYTHING! If you get all the unnecessary BS out of it and get it down to the original van or truck chassis as it rolled out of the factory it will get rid of the ghost draws on the batteries. It's worked for me three times.
 
If I understand what MA said in the beginning he was disconnecting his negative battery cable and still the battery is running down so most of what everyone said is incorrect, he must have another battery hiding somewhere pulling the new one down is he is not disconnecting it like he thinks.
 
If I understand what MA said in the beginning he was disconnecting his negative battery cable and still the battery is running down so most of what everyone said is incorrect, he must have another battery hiding somewhere pulling the new one down is he is not disconnecting it like he thinks.
I completely missed that fact. There indeed cannot be a draw if negative is disconnected. (Which is why a disconnect device would work), Which would also mean the main batteries are already worn or dead because if disconnected it shouldn't degrade fast at all unless already degraded down to nothing. He then goes to reconnect, and in which case 2 days from then, if ECM is still connected then indeed could drain those already damage batteries in that time period.

If the batteries were fresh and healthy, it takes about 2 weeks - 1 month to drain them by ECM alone without any charging. This is from experience testing on my own rig on a mid-90's bus.

A healthy battery bank of 2 can hold enough charge to crank a bus for up to 2 years without a fresh charge if there's zero drain. i.e. everything is disconnected, you reconnect after 2 years, and it will still be enough voltage in them to crank your bus.
 
I completely missed that fact. There indeed cannot be a draw if negative is disconnected. (Which is why a disconnect device would work), Which would also mean the main batteries are already worn or dead because if disconnected it shouldn't degrade fast at all unless already degraded down to nothing. He then goes to reconnect, and in which case 2 days from then, if ECM is still connected then indeed could drain those already damage batteries in that time period.

If the batteries were fresh and healthy, it takes about 2 weeks - 1 month to drain them by ECM alone without any charging. This is from experience testing on my own rig on a mid-90's bus.

A healthy battery bank of 2 can hold enough charge to crank a bus for up to 2 years without a fresh charge if there's zero drain. i.e. everything is disconnected, you reconnect after 2 years, and it will still be enough voltage in them to crank your bus.
The OP states that it drains the battery in 2 days if its NOT disconnected. And several post later states that it is a good/new battery.
 
Yes, I understand he said it was new. I'm doubting that it's good. You can kill a new AGM battery pretty quickly if it's drained to zero.
 
I completely missed that fact. There indeed cannot be a draw if negative is disconnected. (Which is why a disconnect device would work), Which would also mean the main batteries are already worn or dead because if disconnected it shouldn't degrade fast at all unless already degraded down to nothing. He then goes to reconnect, and in which case 2 days from then, if ECM is still connected then indeed could drain those already damage batteries in that time period.

If the batteries were fresh and healthy, it takes about 2 weeks - 1 month to drain them by ECM alone without any charging. This is from experience testing on my own rig on a mid-90's bus.

A healthy battery bank of 2 can hold enough charge to crank a bus for up to 2 years without a fresh charge if there's zero drain. i.e. everything is disconnected, you reconnect after 2 years, and it will still be enough voltage in them to crank your bus.

That's because it's not a fact (as Carl pointed out above). The OP clearly stated that he was disconnecting the negative in order to prevent the batteries from discharging.

On page 1 you said the ECM would drain a battery bank down in 4 days (as tested on your bus). Now you're saying 2 weeks to a month (as tested on your bus). Which one is it? Those two statements can't both be true.

An average (brand new) lead acid battery, sitting on a shelf at room temperature, will self discharge roughly 5% / month. At this rate, assuming the rate remained linear (which it would not) your battery(ies) would be completely discharged in ~20 months. Temperatures above or below mid-70s would, respectively, increase or decrease the self-discharge rate, as would (to a lesser extent) factors such as general construction (VRLA vs AGM vs Flooded). Is it possible that a high-end (aka expensive) battery bank stored in a consistently cold (aka near-freezing) environment might have enough juice to turn over after 2 years? Sure. Is it probable? No - not at all. And even if you did get lucky, the damage you did by letting your batteries self-discharge for 2 years would be irreversible, greatly impacting their longevity.
 
This is a lot like Sudoku or a 3-D chess game( bad analogies I'm sure) All of the needed information is not in this thread. In other threads by the op, you will find missing pieces and clues to this puzzle. Other factors to consider is a possible second battery(Econogaurd 3 month battery) that appears in a photo.
Also a 150amp breaker that is wired to the known battery which apparently trips. An ac that maybe tied to an inverter with no house battery.
 
This is a lot like Sudoku or a 3-D chess game( bad analogies I'm sure) All of the needed information is not in this thread. In other threads by the op, you will find missing pieces and clues to this puzzle. Other factors to consider is a possible second battery(Econogaurd 3 month battery) that appears in a photo.
Also a 150amp breaker that is wired to the known battery which apparently trips. An ac that maybe tied to an inverter with no house battery.
Well said. Not enough info provided, and we're arguing over it. Moving on.
 

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