Please please help!!! Might buy tomorrow.

[Crlefley]

Okay all, I think I found a deal.
1996 international 3800 shorty. Has a dt466 mechanical, and a spicer “6plus” transmission.
Went and looked at it and the engine is super clean. Doesn’t look like a cracked block, but the oil is super milky. Going back tomorrow to drain the pan, put fresh oil in, and test the motor without coolant. Next step would be to drop new oil, drop the pan, and pressure test the coolant tank/lines/sleeves.

I can elaborate more on what I found but for the low price of 1500 bucks (I’ll offer him 800) and a chance at this with 145k on the ticker I can’t help but be serious.

Worst case scenario, it’s screwed and needs a motor, and even still I think it wouldn’t be a buzz kill.

Best case, it’s a ring, or sleeve. I’ll rebuild it, but have to find a place to do it.
Let me know your thoughts.

 

[Danjo-SKO]

Hey, so I’m a newb with these engines, but I’ve seen In previous threads saying that these are wet-sleeve engines and the problem could be that the engine has been overheated and cooked the orings causing leakage of coolant into the oil. I think the diagnosis of that condition was to pull the pan and pressurize the cooling system, looking for leakage around the sleeves.

And now you see I didn’t read you whole
Post

 

[ACamper-SKO]

"oil is super milky" Sounds like coolant in the oil = some major engine piece is probably cracked =$$$$

 

[FAC]

Hard pass
Busses in good running condition are so cheap.
Unless you want this exact bus for some reason?

 

[joeblack5]

I like the 6 SPD with low.... I would check the coolant and see if it is antifreeze. Might give you an idea if the block could be cracked.. Just try to get it started for a couple of seconds and see how bad it smokes..knocks and oil/ milk pressure before you spend money on new oil.

Good luck. J

 

[Crlefley]

Heading that way now... I can’t check the coolant because there is NONE in the resivoir. It did have some in the radiator is what it sounded like. Don’t you think if the block was cracked I would see it somewhere?
To clairify also, I haven’t found any “cheap” running busses with this drivetrain for under 5 grand. And I’ve been looking for awhile. I figure if I get it for 1000 and drop 4-5 into it at most I’ll have a great bus for around 5-6 grand.

Will report back. Going to get it started, then drain/drop pan and do some pressure tests. Might make him an offer up front before I throw work into it.

Fingers crossed.

 

[FAC]

If its been sitting with water in the oil there will be corrosion inside the engine. I’ve had enough open that unless I blow a head gasket and change it ASAP I won’t touch it. The combination of water and corrosive exhaust gasses is terrible for engines. It will have damage to the bearings and lifter bores and cam surfaces etc. if it’s not bad it can run fine but I promise if it’s been sitting like that it will never be like new without a full rebuild.
If you are set on the bus my advise would be to not touch the old engine and find a drop in replacement either used or reman.

As far as block cracks, most of the time there are no visible signs from the outside of the engine and sometimes the cracks are so small you can’t even see them once it’s torn down. Heads usually crack first though.

I think I’m playing devils advocate here a little bit. I just don’t want to see you post back in a couple weeks about needing a full rebuild and it’s gonna cost twice what a running bus would be.

 

[Crlefley]

So how can I tell the basis of corrosion? It sounds like it may have been sitting like this for 6-8 months. I’m about to go wrench on it a bit. If I pull the pan would it give me an idea? What should I look out for? And guessing it’d be about 10k to throw a reman in or rebuild it?

Edit, it has coolant coming out of the breather tube too. So I’m not sure. Was hoping Eastcoast would chin in. He’s always been good to me.

 

[FAC]

I would probably pull a valve cover first and then the pan if it looked really clean up top.
You will pretty much know if you see it. Orange rustiness is bad, dark metal is good. There is almost always a ring of rust in the oil pan where the oil and water separate

 

[EastCoastCB]

So how can I tell the basis of corrosion? It sounds like it may have been sitting like this for 6-8 months. I’m about to go wrench on it a bit. If I pull the pan would it give me an idea? What should I look out for? And guessing it’d be about 10k to throw a reman in or rebuild it?

Edit, it has coolant coming out of the breather tube too. So I’m not sure. Was hoping Eastcoast would chin in. He’s always been good to me.

WOuld be a hard pass for me. After having a DT with coolant issues I'd not touch one unless it were nearly perfect.
But you sound like you're pretty handy.
YOu could always keep the bus and tranny and swap a running take-out engine for a few grand if you do all the work yourself.

 

[Crlefley]

No rust in pan, bad coolant leak from front cylinder. Thoughts?

 

[EastCoastCB]

Internal or external leak?
Or both?

 

[Crlefley]

Here’s some pictures. Seems fixable with a sleeve/rings? Maybe it’s worth a shot. I don’t know here. 1000 bucks?

 

[EastCoastCB]

Here’s some pictures. Seems fixable with a sleeve/rings? Maybe it’s worth a shot. I don’t know here. 1000 bucks?

Man I'd offer to take it if it were free. But I get solid, nice runners for 2 grand or less.

 

[Crlefley]

We’ll hook me up! I need one.

 

[Crlefley]

Internal or external leak?
Or both?

Looks external. Running on the outside of the cylinder.

 

[EastCoastCB]

Could it be leaking at the top corner of the timing cover?

 

[Tall Grass]

Hard pass
Busses in good running condition are so cheap.
Unless you want this exact bus for some reason?

Agreed. Can't DT466 can be an in-frame overhaul.

 

[Crlefley]

Well, you can all kick me later.

I bought it for $1000 bucks. Resealed the pan, fresh oil in it, and fired it up. Ran it down the road, shifted great. Rolled great. Oil pressure stayed consistent around 50-55. Didn’t get over half the tac on the temp gauge.
Parked it, checked the oil, minor milky appearance, but the coolant level stayed the same.

The real task now is to get it home. I have a few days to figure it out. Probably having my buddy come haul it for me. I have two options. Either tow it to Montana, or to Michigan. Either way, I’m going to be the one wrenching on it.

The second we realized where it was leaking the guy really didn’t want to let it go. He took it for a drive and his smile was like a little kids. He was bummed, but his wife ultimately cut the deal.

Wish me luck. I’ll be starting a conversion thread and will let everyone know the process of getting it home.
Excited to be an owner, and actually looking forward to the rebuild, if it’s needed. We shall see how it goes.

Peace.

 

[joeblack5]

Nice to hear that you hung in there and made a decision. So where is it actually leaking.
Good luck.. Johan