Popped a couple fuses, but I can't locate them.

eekster

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Like the title reads! I have the 2, 12 volt sockets, in the dash that have no power to them any more. I plugged something in and it popped, so, I went ahead and plugged into the other one and popped it as well!

Now, I can't find the blown fuse. There is a fuse block under driver seat and, one in engine bay. All the fuses are good. ( I have re-checked them multiple times). I have moved the left and right kick panels out and there are no fuses there. I have looked as best I can with flashlight under drivers dash area as well, still no luck.

2003 chevy cut away express. If anyone out there has some helpful info, I sure could use some help to find what I think may be another fuse block somewhere.
Also, I can definitely see wiring from one of the sockets going right into a factory wire loom which has me believing that looking for a factory fuse block is where the blown fuse will be.

Thanks in advance!
 
Are these lighter sockets? It seems odd to me that two closely-located sockets would be on a different circuit. Certainly possible, just odd. With that in mind, can you confirm that each socket did indeed lose power (preferable with a multi-meter, but at a bare minimum with another known-good 12VDC device other than whatever you believe popped the fuses)? I'd like to rule out the possibility of the device you were using failing and being mistaken for a blown fuse. Both with key off and on 'accessory'.
 
Are these lighter sockets? It seems odd to me that two closely-located sockets would be on a different circuit. Certainly possible, just odd. With that in mind, can you confirm that each socket did indeed lose power (preferable with a multi-meter, but at a bare minimum with another known-good 12VDC device other than whatever you believe popped the fuses)? I'd like to rule out the possibility of the device you were using failing and being mistaken for a blown fuse. Both with key off and on 'accessory'.
Yes, I have confirmed that, they are dead...multi meter confirms no voltage at any time.
 
Well, there go the easy answers. Bump for someone who might have your bus to chime in. If they're factory I'm surprised they're not in the aforementioned locations. Good luck.
 
I have a 2013 Silverado. There is a small fuse panel at the left end of the dashboard. You have to have the driver's door open to pull the cover off and find it. I found one fuse (2) that is labeled "AUX PWR 2".
When I pulled it, the 12 volt plug in the center console went dead. There was also a fuse (16) labeled "AUX PWR, but the layout in the panel doesn't match the diagram. Your van cab could be completely different given the 10 year age difference.

Hope this is a bit of help. What device did you plug in that blew the fuses? Track down the wiring and start with a low amperage device like a phone charger.

Keep talking to us. More details are more betterer.

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I plugged in a "truckers traveling crockpot" ...lol. When asked if it could be plugged in. I thought...go ahead, if it blows a fuse, I'll just replace it! We'll it did. So I volunteered the other 12v source ( knowing that it would be an easy fix...) lol, well, here I am!
 
2003 chevy cut away express. If anyone out there has some helpful info, I sure could use some help to find what I think may be another fuse block somewhere.


Thanks in advance!
you got 2 electrical circuits to figure out, the "chassis" and "body" circuits.
From the keyboard it's next to impossible to tell you what is what...

Easiest thing to do is use a signal tracer.
Unhook the hot wire from the back of the 12v socket.
connect the signal generator and follow the wire.

Easy peasy...

Walmart-Wire Tracer Circuit Tester Short Open Finder Electrical Circuit Tracer
$12.93

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Or you can just do the old fashion "Trace the wire" trick to the fuse box from the lighter like I do. If you run into a fuse, multi-meter the two ends if you can't tell it's blown. Usually you can see it but not always. If it's good keep following the other end of the fuse to maybe a second one down the line.

To solve the initial problem of popping in the first place you need to understand that cooking pots use a heating element. Heating elements use TONS of power. Cigarette lighters do have a small heating element on them to light your cigarettes, but it uses a very light material that is designed to get cherry hot on 12v line no problem. The material is very light and thin. A "Crockpot" is likely WAY too heavy of a draw for that and uses a much thicker material which requires lots more power to get cherry hot to heat anything up. What's the voltage rating of the Crock pot? The plug should say it somewhere or on the back or underside of the device near the plug. If it's 120AC, it's not gonna work and why you are popping. If it's a 12V, what's the Amperage draw? If the amps are too high it won't work either.
 
I kinda figured it would pop. The missus wanted to use it and I just chose the easy path of saying yes ( knowing full well that it would most likely pop a fuse, and it would be simpler to deal with that than saying no and all what needed to be said to defend my answer)
First time ever of not locating fuse though...
 
I kinda figured it would pop. The missus wanted to use it and I just chose the easy path of saying yes ( knowing full well that it would most likely pop a fuse, and it would be simpler to deal with that than saying no and all what needed to be said to defend my answer)
First time ever of not locating fuse though...
I can understand weighing an argument with the misses vs the work needing to be done afterwards to fix it. Sometimes it's easier to do the work to fix it! :ROFLMAO:
 
There is a fuse block under the driver's seat on 2003 and 2007 chevy express vans. The taillight fuses are there. Have a look there.
I have quadruple checked that fuse block...maybe more thinking that I missed one.

I ordered that circuit tester tool and am waiting for delivery. Once it's here, I will give it a go and report back!
 
on my wifes 04 the under hood fuse block fuse ignition E fuse works the tail and turn signal lights?
took a while to find that one.
different body manufacturers do different things?
mine is a collins body on a 3500 express.
 
Did you Ck the fuse box under the hood in front of the driver? I usually use a test light to test fuses like the cheap ones from Harbor freight that have a ground wire with an alligator clip on it and a sharp metal on the other end and a light in the handle. You put the clip on a good ground and then start probing the little metal visible from the top is the fuse. If it lights you’ve got power then test the other end of the fuse the fuse is good if it only lights on one end of the fuse the fuse is bad. I like the test light better because it puts a slight load on the circuit so you don’t end up measuring some feedback from another circuit like a multimeter may sometimes pickup because of its sensitivity.
 

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