Possible defroster option?

My point exactly…. Not very - unless it shoots out flames like the pic on Amazon shows:unsure:
 
Ok Ok, I get it lol. I appreciate the feedback and will 100% heed the warning. Any recommendations that I should look at?
 
If you had heating/defrost before, then you had a coolant line to circulate through the heater core … there are aftermarket heaters that you could pipe in to the lines that would likely be a bit more reliable. Price is going to be higher by a factor of 10 vs that Amazon one…
 
We don't know the bus, or it's heating/defrost design, so it's hard to suggest...other than "un-rip". :)
 
We don't know the bus, or it's heating/defrost design, so it's hard to suggest...other than "un-rip". :)
It's a rear engine 1999 Saf-T-Liner 8.3 Cummins, but with this new system it's gonna be hard to have that info to follow the OP. Maybe there is a way but I don't know an easy way to accomplish it, other than the signature line, like you did.


I do agree with the "un-rip". I have seen where some have used a diesel heater and cracked the windshield due to the high heat.
 
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I ripped it all out. I am not sure I could put it back in, but I suppose I do have all the parts.....
 
You could try a diesel heater as defrost. I've read the stories about somebody breaking their windshield this way and I believe them, but hear me out...

I have a diesel heater that has a Y on the output. One vent is about 6" from the heater, while the other is ducted about 6 feet. I have insulation on the duct, but the temperature difference is still noticeable.

You could mount a diesel air heater a few feet behind the driver seat in your living space with a splitter (they make them with a flap valve to shoot air either one way or the other). Route one leg of the Y up to your existing defrost vents with uninsulated flex duct. By the time it gets there, it shouldn't be hot enough to do damage. The other leg of the Y could be used when parked to heat your living space.

Edit: putting the original defrost back in should be option #1 though.
 
Well, I have bought one of those Defrost/heaters for my GMC 5500 work truck. They suck big time. Don't waste your money. And if you still want one, I'll sell you one. 😂
 
... trying to put a new not in.


['link' to hilariously ill-conceived "dangerous" "unreliable" "worthless" chinesium toy marketed as a 'necessary vehicle accessory' to the gullible and easily side-tracked [points to self] with more money than brainage]
.
My First Choice for trying to put a new not in:
* eliminate source(s) of humidity.
.
My second choice for trying to put a new not in:
* ventilation.
.
My third choice for trying to put a new not in:
* Rain-X interior window treatment engineered to reduce windshield fog.
.
My second third choice for trying to put a new not in:
* paper-towels.
.
.
An aside:
SCUBA divers hawk a loogee into the mask, schmear it around the glass, then rinse lightly.
This absolutely totally eliminates the need to defrost at 30m/100' down.
.
But, for a windshield, unless you are naturally blest with a virtually-unlimited ability to provide suitable amounts of saliva, that method might be 'ambitious'...
Screenshot_20250226-212558.png
 
I know exactly how effective a 150w defroster will be: It will be 150 watts effective. A hair dryer on high is 1875 watts. So, two 150s will be about like having 1/6th of a hair dryer.
.
A traditional stand-still house 40-Watt incandescent light-bulb?
If you remember those*, you probably remember squinting to see because they can be darn dim.
q : Why a 40 and not 75-Watts twice or one yuge 150-Watter?
a : That fan consumes a majority of your outlet's out-putting.
Now, picture holding it to your cheek [reader's choice].
Can you imagine that spectacular forty whole Watts warmth flooding your entire being!
.
[edited to add]
Stand back, ClimateChange©, and prepare to be vanquished!
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footnotes:
*If you do not remember those, they are pretty much just as dim...
.
"Old-World charm", indeed.
Screenshot_20250226-215141.png
 
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