Preferred Body Skin Attachment

o1marc

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2017
Posts
10,479
Location
Dawsonville, Ga.
What are your preferences for securing body skins on. My bus a a gazillion buck rivets, but then quite a few pop rivets and some screws. I can't replace the buck rivets. On the back I used a square drive self tapping screw of the same size, but don't like the look of the square/Phillips hole in them. I've ordered closed end rivets for the side panels with the same diameter head as the buck rivets that came out.
What do you people use?
 
I bought a couple thousand rivets on clearance and got a harbor freight riveter. I got closed end but there are open end rivets available that seal also. Not all open end rivets will, though. Certain ones will.
Screws will work as well.
 
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POP RIVETS!!!

Did half my bus with sheet metal screws.

Tried pop rivets from Jay-cee’s rivet.com

1000 for about $ 70 delivered in 3 days (ups ground)

Great place for rivets.

The rivets work beautifully.

Faster and better clamp up.

Use sikkens for pookie. Works great.
 
POP RIVETS!!!

Did half my bus with sheet metal screws.

Tried pop rivets from Jay-cee’s rivet.com

1000 for about $ 70 delivered in 3 days (ups ground)

Great place for rivets.

The rivets work beautifully.

Faster and better clamp up.

Use sikkens for pookie. Works great.

I've got a thousand or so from them and always recommend them. :thumb:
 
roof raise, new skin

I've been watching videos and reading about roof raises - I notice that some raise their bus roof by going straight up, making in effect a big wind catching sail, while others have a transitional slope, but have to use thinner metal to get the bends right and once it's painted with gloss paint, the waves and wobbles show up - a number of years ago I set a camper on the deck of my flat deck 1 ton truck and tucked my load under and beside it - on a trip, with that blunt camper sitting way up in the air catching the wind, I got 4 miles per gallon - before I went on another trip I made a concave scoop for the front of the camper and achieved 7 MPG the next time I went somewhere with the same load almost doubling the mileage, so if I do do a roof raise, I'll definitely have a sloped transition just because of the difference in fuel costs ( and as a bonus, the items stored on top of the camper didn't collect road grime ) - on the matter of material and forming the curves, in my travels via the internet, I found that bus bodies, not on frames or wheels, are being advertised for $100 - $300 for storage containers - my thought was to buy a matching body to my bus, cut a section of roof out to use as the transition on my roof raise - it would already have the bracing, be made out of the right gauge, and take no time trying to get it to conform to the proper shape - it's one of those ideas that came to me as I woke up in the middle of the night and could be impractical, so I'd like to hear ( read ) some critiques
 
I’m new to this site and have not started my roof raise yet. Plan on early spring start date. Your idea to buy a bus body and cut out part of the roof for your transition will not work IMO because your changing the geometry by angling the roof section. The only thing you get is same gauge metal. Good luck!
 
roof raise, new skin

I’m new to this site and have not started my roof raise yet. Plan on early spring start date. Your idea to buy a bus body and cut out part of the roof for your transition will not work IMO because your changing the geometry by angling the roof section. The only thing you get is same gauge metal. Good luck!

I'd do a mockup first of course - in my mind, cutting the replacement roof on the necessary angle should work - it only has to butt up to the existing roof, not overlap it
 

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