Project Huckleberry

[hatchetman-SKO]

With the cooling weather comes more progress. I've removed the rubber floors from the plywood, that wasn't so bad. Taking up the plywood underneath that was a major pain. Not only is it screwed down it is also glued too! After getting all that up I used a rotary wire rope to get the surface rust off to prepare for phosphoric acid treatment and then paint. Today I took care of replacing the roof vents with recycled sheet metal salvaged from the interior. Eventually I will add standard RV vents but the opening for the emergency exit was way bigger and leaky.


It was a big day for butyl tape and NP1 sealant!


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[hatchetman-SKO]

Perhaps tomorrow if it's not too hot I'll get out and start resealing the windows with more NP1. We'll see.


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[milkmania]

Didn't get much done here... 94°

 

[EastCoastCB]

With the cooling weather comes more progress. I've removed the rubber floors from the plywood, that wasn't so bad. Taking up the plywood underneath that was a major pain. Not only is it screwed down it is also glued too! After getting all that up I used a rotary wire rope to get the surface rust off to prepare for phosphoric acid treatment and then paint. Today I took care of replacing the roof vents with recycled sheet metal salvaged from the interior. Eventually I will add standard RV vents but the opening for the emergency exit was way bigger and leaky.


It was a big day for butyl tape and NP1 sealant!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I like it. You're doing exactly what I would do/am doing!
I LOVE getting rid of the damned leaky hatches. Can't wait to get my Fantastic RV vents on my bus. Just added one to my work van and I LOVE it. Post some pics as you go!

 

[Stu & Filo. T]

Didn't get much done here... 94°

112Dg here

 

[T-Bolt]

112Dg here

I could see my breath in my bus this morning.

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[Stu & Filo. T]

I could see my breath in my bus this morning.

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I can work in that.

 

[hatchetman-SKO]

Picture of recent progress, floors have been painted with 2 coats of Rustoleum and 1.5" of insulation on walls and roof. Furring strips have been finished since this picture too. The sag you can see from some of the insulation panels is because I used a double layer of 3/4" foam board to more easily bend to the curvature of the roof.

The insulation is only held with spring tension before furring strips go in. I plan to seal up the cracks that exist between the foam board and bus ribs with crack filler foam from the can.

TIP: The foam board insulation has a grain to it. It is much easier to cut in a certain direction and it also has more flex before snapping in one direction. It took me some time to figure this out but if you are using foam board for your roof make sure you cut your pieces with maximum flexibility in mind.

 

[hatchetman-SKO]

I used these fasteners to secure the furring strips to the ribs of the bus. Very good design. They are mildly self tapping although I had to predrill the ribs (1/8" drill bit) to ensure that they didn't break off. What's neat about them is that they are coated to resist moisture and the head is designed to countersink by cutting away at material at the surface as it tightens for a sub flush install.

 

[hatchetman-SKO]

Today I completed a small project to repair the under body storage. I removed the rusty floor with a cut-off wheel and welded together a frame of angle with tabs at strategic locations to be able to bolt up to good metal that suspends treated 3/4" plywood as the new floor. The floor is supported from underneath with some scrap I scavenged and this also serves as a place to screw down the plywood so it doesn't bounce around during travel. Should hold up to many years of exposure to the elements without rusting away like the previous moisture trap that I had originally.

 

[hatchetman-SKO]

Red rosin paper done with 3/4" XPS insulation going down.

 

[hatchetman-SKO]

Red rosin paper starting and showing how I patched holes in the floor. Just NP1 for the small ones and aluminium flashing for the larger ones.

 

[hatchetman-SKO]

Insulation done!

 

[hatchetman-SKO]

Showing a trick I learned here on this site. An ingenious way to connect the plywood panels together by countersinking into the insulation layer.

 

[hatchetman-SKO]

Plywood panels going down. Got a sweet deal on CL for cabinet grade baltic birch, 1/2" marine 9 ply. I'd rather have used 3/4" but I'm a bit tall so head room will be a premium so I went with 1/2".

 

[Twigg-SKO]

Plywood panels going down. Got a sweet deal on CL for cabinet grade baltic birch, 1/2" marine 9 ply. I'd rather have used 3/4" but I'm a bit tall so head room will be a premium so I went with 1/2".

The floor is flat. The insulation has decent compressive strength. 1/2" is fine.

It's what I will be using over polyiso foamboard.

 

[hatchetman-SKO]

I used 3/4" stainless deck screws to secure the plywood to the countersunk strips and placed 1/8" rubber strips between the plywood and chair rail to minimize squeaking, another great Skoolie.net tip. I plan to secure the edge of the plywood pieces with L brackets hidden within/behind the built-ins.

 

[hatchetman-SKO]

Subfloor done, some of the plywood was a little warped so I'm using some weight to hold down the edge while the gorilla glue sets up. Gorilla glue is good stuff, it expands as it dries to form a water tight and extremely strong bond.

 

[joeblack5]

Twigg, I would not be using polyiso under the floor, it can absorb water. That is why it should not be used under slabs and in ground contact. I think EPS or XPS would be better for under the floor, just in case you have small leak or water accident.
just me $0.02

Choosing Rigid Foam | GreenBuildingAdvisor.com

Later J

 

[Twigg-SKO]

Twigg, I would not be using polyiso under the floor, it can absorb water. That is why it should not be used under slabs and in ground contact. I think EPS or XPS would be better for under the floor, just in case you have small leak or water accident.
just me $0.02

Choosing Rigid Foam | GreenBuildingAdvisor.com

Later J

I did some further research.

I think I'll switch to XPS Foam Board, not necessarily because of the water absorption, but because it seems that in colder temperatures the R-Value of polyiso falls significantly, while that of XPS rises.