Project Huckleberry

Did you have any specific concerns about the bed? I'd love to benefit from your experience. It is quite sturdy with the supports about 20" in every direction and with the 9-ply birch plywood top.

The main concern about a ply base for a bed is that it will get wet with condensation during the night. This is a problem all RVs have if the bed is constructed this way.

Drill a lot of holes in it, or change to a slatted base to avoid the issue.
 
The main concern about a ply base for a bed is that it will get wet with condensation during the night. This is a problem all RVs have if the bed is constructed this way.

Drill a lot of holes in it, or change to a slatted base to avoid the issue.

Truth!

I had issues with mold on the underside of my mattress in my 5th wheel trailer when in a humid climate. I wound up building a slatted base from 1x4's to allow air circulation under the mattress.

Problem solved.
 
The main concern about a ply base for a bed is that it will get wet with condensation during the night. This is a problem all RVs have if the bed is constructed this way.

Drill a lot of holes in it, or change to a slatted base to avoid the issue.

Excellent suggestions, thank you for those tips. I've heard that condensation can be an issue. I was also considering a mattress protector.
 
My Dad and I built a custom countertop of walnut, nice to have access to a big planer and sander :smile:. Counter coated with food grade mineral oil to bring out the natural beauty and protect the wood.

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Drawers underneath, all 1/2 plywood, reinforced with small metal angle brackets, glue, and brads. Eagle-eyed readers will notice all the shims on the left sides :oops:

Note to self: for next bus conversion make sure counter supports are super, super straight. The shims weren't a big deal just made the whole drawer install more complicated.

Also the axiom of measure twice cut once should have been followed more closely, the first time around all my drawers were too wide so I had to modify them to fit, turned out ok, I think. They slide well on the same 1/2 ply sandwiching the 1/2 ply slide on the drawers themselves. Certainly much cheaper than having to buy slides and it could be enough friction so that I won't have to lock them up during transit, we'll see!

Drawer faces for a future day.

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Sink installed, large-ish 22x25 but we don't always do dishes as quickly as we should :smile:. Not super deep though, so that helps with my decision to mount the counter lower to preserve window space and to not "permanently" lock in windows behind more construction than necessary.

Underneath we plan to start with the simple two jug system for now with a pressure sensitive water pump. Doors instead of more drawers.

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All doors are 1.5" think with two pieces of 3/32" paneling just like the walls and trimmed around the edge with 3/16" birch plywood. The door jams are also trimmed with 3/16" birch plywood inline with the wall and around the front and rear openings in the same walnut as the counters although I haven't decided if we are going to coat those in mineral oil or perhaps clear them with another product to enhance the shine.

Rear door between bedroom and garage. Door opens into the bedroom in the event that we had to get a large piece of material into the bus in the future from the rear hatch.

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Door separating the driving area from the living area.

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In this picture you can see that on the side of the door assembly that it closes into I have inset the walnut trim by 1/2" so that the door has something to close against and perhaps I can add some weather stripping or foam tape for a better seal. Pay no attention to my work in progress wiring :whistling:

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Finally after what seemed like months of rainy weekends we had a few clear ones so I crawled on top and painted the roof of the bus. I used 5 gallons of 25 year Lanco Ultra Siliconizer Reflective Roof Coating wich was $99 delivered from Home Depot.
I combined the coating with enough Hy-Tech Thermal Solutions ThemaCells for 5 gallons mixed in ($60 on Amazon). Haven't tried the products separately but after hearing so much about the ThermaCells online I thought I'd try it.

The rib and roof area with the coating is noticeably cooler to the touch than the uncoated side panels although eventually the rest will be painted with Rust-Oleum gloss white, brush and roller, no way I'm masking all those windows! I had enough to do the front, back, roof, and sides down to the rain gutters for a 39' bus (2 coats). Very very pleased with the roof coating, should insulate well and help seal up any leaky panel gaps or rusty rivets.

Also in this picture you can see I've added two roof vents, not the expensive kind yet, we'll see how the entry level ones fair. One in the bedroom area and one in the kitchen. I've also purchased two small 5,000 BTU window air conditioners for parked AC that fit inside the dimensions of an open bus window, barely!

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12V wiring circuits
  • Water pump
  • Left aux
  • Right aux
  • Ceiling lights
  • Exhaust fans

120V wiring circuits
  • Garage/Exterior
  • Bedroom
  • Left living area
  • Right living area
  • Driving area

Here's the beginning of my 50 AMP service panel (6ga marine inlet wiring) for the garage, the first panel on the left is a simple spa panel so I can have a 50 AMP main cutoff since I couldn't find a 50 AMP main breaker at a reasonable price. The 5x 20 AMP breakers are all GFCI/AFCI with plug on neutral to limit the amount of wiring. The breakers are expensive (about $50 each) but I think it is worth it since I'll be running electricity inside a big metal tube.

The 120V wiring is all 12ga triplex boat wiring, all the 12V is also tinned marine wiring 14ga except the lights are 16ga. The box in the lower right is a 30AMP 12V switching power supply that I plan to use in place of a 12V battery to service my 12V systems. I don't plan on boondocking for the time being but if I have to I can always run the generator or hook up a battery in the future.

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Tool time!

If you do any amount of wiring I highly recommend a Self-Adjusting Wire Stripper and Ratcheting Wire Terminal Crimper.

Stripping countless wires both for 12V and 120V applications can make your wrist want to fall off so the self adjusting wire stripper is a must. Recently I've stopped trying to put the super manual squeeze on my connectors. The double crimping action of the ratcheting crimper makes a really great connection every time, almost fuses the wire into the connector, way better than brute force.

A ratcheting crimper is one of those tools, much like the self-adjusting stripper, that I can't believe I waited so long to buy and can't imagine working without in the future.
 
As a professional electrical controls guy, I cannot recommend a high quality racheting crimper highly enough. Absolutely indispensable for making terminal connections that will be reliable.

Hatchetman, enjoying catching up on the build. Thanks!
 
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Overhead storage base resting on 1.5" boards attached to the ribs between the windows.

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Attached on the top the 1.5" support has a 15 degree back angle to make sure the front face is perpendicular to the floor.

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Overhead storage with ends and separators.

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Trim and doors to follow when I trim out the drawers underneath the countertop.
 
One picture representing 7 days of work, the completed paint job. Main color is white, navy blue stripe, black bumpers and mirrors. Everything was painted with gloss Rustoleum using mostly a 3" brush. I thinned the Rustoleum with Acetone 2 pints per gallon and used Japan dryer to speed up the curing process. Also useful would be a small 1" brush, corner brush, and a model painting tiny brush for the detail work like around the badging. It took 4 days to clean, degrease, and sand (220 grit) the surface. Each coat of white took 1 day each, and a final day for the blue stripe and trim.

I used 2 gallons of white, 1 gallon per coat and 2 spray cans of navy blue. I harvested the blue paint from the cans and then applied it with a brush. The gloss black I used about a pint or two from a whole gallon that I bought. I should have a lifetime of bumper touch ups :) The mirror assemblies were removed and painted with spray paint.

Much more work than I expected, maybe I should have bought a short bus :)

It is by no means perfect but I think it looks pretty good from about 20 feet away. I used a brush because I didn't want to mask everything and I was worried about overspray in the vicinity of the bus. If I had it to do over again I would do it the same way, perhaps a sprayer would do a better quality job but I couldn't take the risk of overspray and didn't want to mask off everything that would have been necessary.

I still have to reinstall the turn signal lights and headlights.

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]
 
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I'm a big fan of gauges. Especially on diesel engines. The flakiness of the International gauge cluster makes having some auxiliary gauges all the more important. I've chosen boost, oil pressure, water temp, pyrometer, and transmission temp.

I couldn't find a gauge mounting solution that I liked that would keep the gauges together, in front of the driver, and support 5 gauges so I built one from the metal recovered from removing the interior sheet metal. The box is 3.5" square and will be mounted to the defrost ducting between the steering wheel and windshield. Painted flat black to minimize sun reflection when diving.

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Found a really cheap futon from Walmart for $99. 65", no arm rests, and metal frame. Fits nicely in the main living area over the wheel well but I had to extend the feet about 5" to clear the wheel well. Should work out bolted to the floor inside and it doubles as a guest bed since it doesn't have an arm rest we can extend the sleeping capability easily with an ottoman.

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I used 2 gallons of white, 1 gallon per coat and 2 spray cans of navy blue. I harvested the blue paint from the cans and then applied it with a brush.

Much more work than I expected, maybe I should have bought a short bus :)

Very nice job......really like the blue stripe.

And the short buses are just as time-consuming. :smile:
 
Driver's console wired up and complete with backup camera, inverter, trailer break controller, and gauges, switch panel painted navy to match the exterior stripe. I was able to reuse the nice heavy duty BlueBird switches. The flat portion near the driver's left arm will make a nice area for storage, cup holders, or even an arm rest.

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