Propane lines and setup, is this okay?

[Buyzen]

Hi everyone,

I'm getting close to finishing the main things on my short Chevy bus. I'm taking off in 5 weeks and just need a simple propane setup for now without resorting to those green bottles until I can afford something more permanent like copper lines. After hours and hours of research it seems this area is quite the wild west with a variance of opinions.

I am planning to mount my 5lb propane tank on the top of my shuttle bus rear door (photo 4) so it clears my motorcycle on my hitch carrier. I however do not plan to have a permanent propane line to the tank. I plan to connect and disconnect an extension hose from the tank to the tee (photo 3) under the bus each time I use the propane or setup camp and bleed the lines when done and disconnected. Reasons for this are safety and ease of setup right now.

I plan to run two, 15 foot stainless steel braided hoses (traditional rubber inside) from my water heater and stove through my cabinets to a hole in my floor under my bed on the rear that connects to the tee under the bus. Does anyone see any issue with this and running two 15ft hoses mainly inside or using a stainless steel hose?

Hoses: Amazon.ca

I don't have the time and money for a copper line setup right now. I am also leaning to run the SS hoses inside the bus instead of under the wheel wells and frame rails as there's not really much for me to attach the hoses to under the bus nor do I want it close to the brake line or tire in case of a blowout. I figured running it inside for now would work but have heard mixed opinions on stain-steel hoses though these are not the CSST hoses for one time setups just your traditional rubber ones with extra protection.

Open to all feedback or how I could even do this better.

My first plan was just to drill a hole in the floor straight down from the stove and have the two connections under the bus ready to be used but that setup would require me to dismount and remount my propane tank each time but have less propane lines inside the bus. Again both options would be temporary and no permanent line to the tank for potential leaks.

 

[desrtdog]

Not sure about the mounting location from a potential safety point of view…seems like it will be fully out in the elements (sun) and more importantly, if that thing lets loose while driving….well, could be exciting for anyone behind you. (This is my commentary based on not knowing how you plan to anchor it, or how sturdy that door is.)

As for the lines, CSST would probably be a better bet long run - it’s what I used from the tank to the inside manifold - but short term and not permanently hooked up you should be ok…make sure to cap everything off when disconnected…

 

[Buyzen]

Not sure about the mounting location from a potential safety point of view…seems like it will be fully out in the elements (sun) and more importantly, if that thing lets loose while driving….well, could be exciting for anyone behind you. (This is my commentary based on not knowing how you plan to anchor it, or how sturdy that door is.)

As for the lines, CSST would probably be a better bet long run - it’s what I used from the tank to the inside manifold - but short term and not permanently hooked up you should be ok…make sure to cap everything off when disconnected…

Thanks for your reply. I updated my post with a photo of the mounting rack. The door is a heavy steel door. I will also have the rugged propane cover they provide for protection. 5lb Propane Tank Mount

Yea that's where it gets controversial about CSST only being used in commercial applications where things aren't being moved or vibrated like a bus down the road. Again I know my setup is pretty safe since I plan to connect/disconnect the line to the tank every time, just more curious on feedback about my overall approach and use of the stainless steel rubber hoses inside the bus. I know the least amount of connections inside the bus so that's why the tee is outside under rear.

 

[Buyzen]

I am now reading my overall hose length might be too long for my small 5lb propane tank regarding pressure. The setup first pictured setup would be two 15 feet hoses to the tee and then a 10 or 12 ft extension hose to the tank.

Might have to go back to my first idea of just a hole in the floor straight down from the stove and use the two 6ft hoses I bought to the tee right on the tank...

Hmm any other ideas??

 

[desrtdog]

I think your approach of using braided steel hoses is fine - better than straight up rubber gas grill type hoses…again my opinion. Copper would be better inside, but since you mentioned about CSST concerns, I’m thinking I read some of the same concerns related to copper in a moving, vibrating, jiggling bus. That aside, it’s what I used inside my bus, opting for CSST from the tank to a flange in the floor, then inside to a manifold, where I switched to copper tubing to the stove and water heater.

Main thing I wanted was to minimize the total length on propane line…in total I’ve got somewhere around 5-6 ft of CSST and another 10ft maybe of copper combined to both loads…Post 41 of my build here has some pics of the propane system…

 

[Buyzen]

I think your approach of using braided steel hoses is fine - better than straight up rubber gas grill type hoses…again my opinion. Copper would be better inside, but since you mentioned about CSST concerns, I’m thinking I read some of the same concerns related to copper in a moving, vibrating, jiggling bus. That aside, it’s what I used inside my bus, opting for CSST from the tank to a flange in the floor, then inside to a manifold, where I switched to copper tubing to the stove and water heater.

Main thing I wanted was to minimize the total length on propane line…in total I’ve got somewhere around 5-6 ft of CSST and another 10ft maybe of copper combined to both loads…Post 41 of my build here has some pics of the propane system…

Wow nicely done and nice build. I remember actually seeing your propane line setup when researching! Are you concerned at all about your propane manifold being inside your bus? Just seems like more potential leak points...

And yes that's what I mean. There's so many differing opinions out there for type of propane hoses. RV's do primarily use copper inside though unless that has changed? I want to be able to take my propane water heater out easily to use outside in the rare circumstance so really don't think I even want something permanent like copper in the future. Just want whatever I do to be safe but I know that's subjective especially in the skoolie world.

 

[desrtdog]

Not too concerned…system is off and drained when not in use, so likelihood of a leak problem is minimal…although would probably be prudent to conduct periodic leak checks. As for removing items, copper is no more difficult than a hose. Would take more time removing the actual stove than the propane line.

 

[Buyzen]

Not too concerned…system is off and drained when not in use, so likelihood of a leak problem is minimal…although would probably be prudent to conduct periodic leak checks. As for removing items, copper is no more difficult than a hose. Would take more time removing the actual stove than the propane line.

Makes sense. I think the thing is to just be thorough and conscious of the risks and minimize them best we can for whatever route we decide in our builds.

I think I came up with a way easier solution for the time being. Just drill a hole in the floor directly below my stove to feed two, 6ft SS propane lines through a rubber grommet and when I need to use the propane just connect it all with 15ft extension hose to my tank without having to dismount my tank every time. Minimal lines inside the bus and no two 15ft hoses + a 12ft extension to lower pressure.

 

[AlphaHare]

That sounds like a good solution for your vacation. Where is the regulator? You don't want to have high pressure anywhere inside the bus.

FWIW, the US RV code 1192 doesn't allow roof, rear wall, or rear bumper mounting, and CSST isn't an approved material for lines. Tank mounting should handle 8 time the weight in any direction.

 

[Buyzen]

That sounds like a good solution for your vacation. Where is the regulator? You don't want to have high pressure anywhere inside the bus.

FWIW, the US RV code 1192 doesn't allow roof, rear wall, or rear bumper mounting, and CSST isn't an approved material for lines. Tank mounting should handle 8 time the weight in any direction.

Thanks for your response. I live in Canada so not sure if that applies but the mounts are by a reputable overlanding company here. I do see tons of rigs with the same mounts in the USA too. Perhaps not "legal" but way better than a tank inside the vehicle as many do with a locker.

I'm not using CSST lines just stainless steel rubber lines. Each hose would have its own regulator outside under bus floor.

 

[AlphaHare]

....but way better than a tank inside the vehicle as many do with a locker.

OMG yes. ;>)

 

[Buyzen]

Also if anyone was to hit me from behind, they would run into my 290lb motorcycle and carrier. The tank would also be mounted 8 feet high so most cars and even trucks wouldn't hit it if I didn't have my motorcycle on the back but I do plan too everywhere I go.

 

[nikitis]

You should mount the tank in a locker. A metal locker. And they need to be held tightly in that locker, not rolling loose. They should not be exposed to the outside at all. If the locker somehow exploded, it's more likely to blow out where there's least resistance which will be downwards if mounted under the bus floor which is better than upwards in the inside. I wouldn't likely mount it next to a stove either, but somewhere in the middle like a storage bay is best which if it were to leak wouldn't poison you inside, but you'd smell it outside. Also the tank might not immediately be the first thing a frieghtliner crashing into the back of you hits. I get you believe it's high enough however what if the middle crushes from a lower truck hitting it and it then drops right on the hood of the truck that crashes into you? Not sure where you get this idea of it's safer outside than in a metal container form.

Braided cable is fine to use indoors. The point of the metal covering is to help prevent accidental puncturing. For a line that isn't going to move at all it's fine to use. Most builds I've seen on here use it over copper and there aren't any issues.

And @AlphaHare is correct you also need a regulator from the tank and connect the braided hose to the regulator. The hose isn't going to move much at all. It's actually designed to move a lot and when you carry a tank portably that's the hose to use so it doesn't pierce easily while moving it around. So it being stationary is more than acceptable.

 

[Rock-N-Ruth]

Hi everyone,

I'm getting close to finishing the main things on my short Chevy bus. I'm taking off in 5 weeks and just need a simple propane setup for now without resorting to those green bottles until I can afford something more permanent like copper lines. After hours and hours of research it seems this area is quite the wild west with a variance of opinions.

I am planning to mount my 5lb propane tank on the top of my shuttle bus rear door (photo 4) so it clears my motorcycle on my hitch carrier. I however do not plan to have a permanent propane line to the tank. I plan to connect and disconnect an extension hose from the tank to the tee (photo 3) under the bus each time I use the propane or setup camp and bleed the lines when done and disconnected. Reasons for this are safety and ease of setup right now.

I plan to run two, 15 foot stainless steel braided hoses (traditional rubber inside) from my water heater and stove through my cabinets to a hole in my floor under my bed on the rear that connects to the tee under the bus. Does anyone see any issue with this and running two 15ft hoses mainly inside or using a stainless steel hose?

Hoses: Amazon.ca

I don't have the time and money for a copper line setup right now. I am also leaning to run the SS hoses inside the bus instead of under the wheel wells and frame rails as there's not really much for me to attach the hoses to under the bus nor do I want it close to the brake line or tire in case of a blowout. I figured running it inside for now would work but have heard mixed opinions on stain-steel hoses though these are not the CSST hoses for one time setups just your traditional rubber ones with extra protection.

Open to all feedback or how I could even do this better.

My first plan was just to drill a hole in the floor straight down from the stove and have the two connections under the bus ready to be used but that setup would require me to dismount and remount my propane tank each time but have less propane lines inside the bus. Again both options would be temporary and no permanent line to the tank for potential leaks.

Whatever you do, remember that propane is heavier than air. Any leaks indoors will pool on the floor till it finds an ignition source. Then... BOOM!
BOOM!

 

[nikitis]

Whatever you do, remember that propane is heavier than air. Any leaks indoors will pool on the floor till it finds an ignition source. Then... BOOM!
BOOM!

Which is another great reason to have it in a locker under the bus. Preferably behind the rear wheels.

Might be good to have a couple of holes in the bottom of your box for said reason as well so it doesn't pool up in the box and can escape in lower, less dangerous quantities should it ignite for some very unlikely reason.

 

[Mr P]

Vented better than just a couple holes on the bottom. Look at any other propane enclosure for examples. Too few holes and when it blows it's a grenade.

 

[nikitis]

Well sure. Semantics

Vented better than just a couple holes on the bottom. Look at any other propane enclosure for examples. Too few holes and when it blows it's a grenade.

 

[Rock-N-Ruth]

Vented better than just a couple holes on the bottom. Look at any other propane enclosure for examples. Too few holes and when it blows it's a grenade.

In addition to a well vented storage locker, always shut off fuel outside when not in use.
Propane leak alarms below any interior propane connection, can help to prevent disaster.

 

[Kentucky Dreaming]

My POS truck camper has an intake at the bottom with a PVC pipe going to the top. The louver at the bottom faces forward to force air into the compartment when driving. Outlet vent at the opposite corner on the bottom. The interior CO2 & propane detector is right at floor level.

Hope that all made sense.

 

[Cheezewhiz]

Fukkin send it