raised floor

druidwood

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2017
Posts
125
Location
Gold Bar, WA
In reading how most people here do their floor I am second guessing my decision to make a 1 x 2 grid on the floor, put fiberglass insulation (less toxic and flammable) between the grids then nail the plywood into the framework. Presume I will have to attach my base floor grid to the metal, but want to avoid making holes in the floor after I plug all the ones that were left behind by seats, etc. so will keep that to a minimum. My current floor is showing lots of wet wood, and thought by gluing the plywood to the metal as they did, that it held in the moisture and I want there to be an air space instead. No obvious areas of leaks besides near the wheel wells.

Anyone else do their floor this way? Also seems to be lots of rust where bolts and screws went through metal floor - is there a way to mitigate that for any new bolts/screws I add, like using stainless?

Thanks.
 
thats how i did my floor, after raising the roof though. link to the build is in my signature there. try for January 2017 in my build and it should be around there. also did it without putting holes in my floor because i welded them all shut.
 
I would avoid fiberglass insulation because it holds water like a sponge.

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There was another type of insulation i read in another post it was similar to rock wool. It was not supposed to hold water and was fireproof. I can't seem to find the thread now though.
 
I skipped the framing period.
One inch foil faced under two inches of rigid with plywood directly over top.
A floating insulation floor.
PL sub flooring foam safe glue did a better job than screws, framing or folding and crushing it down.
I will never build thermal bridges in a floor again.
 
I skipped the framing period.
One inch foil faced under two inches of rigid with plywood directly over top.
A floating insulation floor.
PL sub flooring foam safe glue did a better job than screws, framing or folding and crushing it down.
I will never build thermal bridges in a floor again.
Agreed!

Rigid foam has a 15-25 psi rating so there is no need to frame.

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I am a big guy, 6'4 300lbs and I have not had an issue with the insulation beneath me.
It has not peeled, curled, lifted, or anything from the metal floor. I put 2x2s on the floor under the seat rail to provide an anchor point for surface walling and it also gave me a great space to mount plywood to the steel and run my electrical and plumbing without interfering with the insulation value.

An unexpected little bonus and a lot of saved framing material that can be used elsewhere.
 

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