Replacement of bi-fold entrance door

madpsalmer

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2009
Posts
180
Location
Portland OR area
I am looking into what it would take to replace my bi-fold with a solid door. I am looking for tips, advice and any helpful info you have! I have access to a welder but prefer wood building as it is more convenient. Wood door? Metal exterior door? Windowed?
 
I've been eyeballing some exterior doors from double wides... The size seems right and with a little work I think the jam and everything could be used...
 
We would need a 32" steel door to fit our opening. Found out we could special order a steel door from Lowes/Home Depot. Ended up making our two piece Bi-fold door into a one piece. We will use "plastic wood" trim to build the trim and get weather stripping to use on the door.
 
Lornas can you expound on how you fused the doors together? Was did it entail? I like the sound of using my door as is, without all the extra garbage and linkages. I would just like to seal up the bus a bit better and the door is a major leak of air and the pathway to wasps etc...
 
easiest is to get rid of the door, then measure it (measure middle to in case it bows in or out etc) and then find out what size EXTERIOR door you can fit into there with a nice big window in it! I used a screen door cause i was told i need a 30" door. I think i will find an exterior 30" door and then put the screen door on over that.
 
I had considered a screen door, as well would be nice in the summer months. Have you pulled your doors off yet what did it take? advice? I need details people! :LOL:
 
madpsalmer said:
Lornas can you expound on how you fused the doors together? Was did it entail? I like the sound of using my door as is, without all the extra garbage and linkages...

http://aluminumasylum.webs.com/bluebirdfe.htm Has the pics of the door. Look at the "one piece door" article that I have on there as well. That is what we based the skoolie "rebuild" on.

We used a "multitool" (beefed up high speed Dremel-type thing... it's also my router). and a couple of heavy duty cut off wheels (made for a grinder NOT a Dremel) to remove the piano hinge knuckles from the bus. The door side of the piano hing simple was screwed in. We tried to reuse the same holes for the replacement door hinges... which we have several pairs of laying around... result of years of remodeling. We simply unscrewed all the tiny screws from the door (saved the screws), took it completely apart and removed all the wind guards. We still have them and I intent on keeping them until the conversion is finished in case we need one of them for the replaced hinge area. We had no rust on the door. Keeping the original door gives us a "window" to look out of while driving. As for a screen door, I think a "retractable screen " will work. And it won't be in our way during the winter months unlike the POS RV screen door on the RV... cheap POS. I seriously dislike that door.
180458000705lg.jpg

http://www.lowes.com/pd_313799-2935...s?Ns=p_product_price|1&Ntt=screen+door&page=4


Here is a link to a door lock Fast Fred built. I'm not sure what we are going to do about a door lock. But some of you may be interested.
http://users.cwnet.com/thall/FAST FRED.htm

You know that quite a bit of stuff on CCC (where Fast Fred's door lock is) can be modified to work on skoolies. Fred Hobe has 6 pages. He puts on the Bussin' get-together down in FL. He converts coaches for a living and has put a lot of info and short cuts up that can be modified for skoolies.
http://users.cwnet.com/~thall/
 
The door that I plan to replace my bi-fold door with is the same one (if I can find it) that GoneCamping used on his Thomas. Here's the link:

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1899&start=60

I really like the full view and the safety glass. I've been making some calls around here and it's going to cost, but I think the safety glass and full view will be awesome. I believe my cutout for my door is 30"x79" or something like that. I'll need to remeasure, but every time I talk to someone at the lumber yard and mention a 30" storm door, they start talking about mobile home doors! I'd just really like my door to seal a little better than the bi-fold does.

Good luck with your replacement or fab. :)

Ben.
 
NewSkewlHauler said:
...every time I talk to someone at the lumber yard and mention a 30" storm door, they start talking about mobile home doors..

As someone who's favourite pasttime is going into a lumber yard/hardware store looking for stuff do do something that the stuff I'm looking at was never designed, nor intended for, I have learned something.... Do not give out anymore information than absolutely necessary. If you are buying a tempered or safety glass, full-view Lawson screen door, then you go in and ask for a tempered or safety glass, full-view Lawson screen door size XX" wide by XX" high. Other than that, you are giving them far too much information and it will blow their little myopic minds. :LOL:
 
mine was a real PITA because there was some molded part at the top for the door and rubber part to rest against. think it was tig welded in there to. it took awhile but i got it off eventually. For framing i used square aluminum tubing.
 
I took another look at my door setup, and, after reading TigerCub's identical thread, I've decided that a 32" door would fit. I only measured to the hinges before. But once I take all of the stuff off of the bi-fold, I should have 31 7/8"...enough for a standard 32" door. That means that I can get the Larson Secure Elegance as I mentioned, or I can get an Anderson 4000 series. They are basically the same thing. One big box store is quoting me $372 for the Larson and the other store is telling my $319 for the Anderson. I can get them in black with nickel hardware to match my bus too. It's a lot of money, but I think the final outcome will be worth it. I'll update with pics in my thread "later." Hopefully in about 3 weeks!

Ben.
 
Secure storm door update

Got my door installed. :) It's not 100% complete, but it operates and works well. Here's the link to my thread with a couple of pics.

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=5260&start=90

Hey I am going the same route I like the look of the storm door. I was wondering what you did to avoid corrosion with the aluminum of the door and the metal of the bus. I am using self tapping stainless steel through the aluminum and into the door frame and wondering if I need to do some preventative steps.

The door mounted well I had to cut another 2 inches into the top of the frame for it to fit and weld in a new support bar. I warped the sheet metal above it 😓 so I am also thinking I will cut the drip guard and separate it from the top inside seal and mount the separately 🤷🏻*♂️ It’s he nuclear option but it will work if I have too.
 

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