[REQUESTED] - Pre-Trip Safety Inspection Checklist

I am never driving my bus again. :surrender:

It can't be THAT bad, MG. I don't intend this as an "ooga-booga" to make people afraid of their bus, but more to look at this all as a friendly reminder that every component on any vehicle has an expiration date, and just as with any vehicle, a little dilligence can prevent a lot of problems and hassle.

Think about it, it's better to spend 20-30 minutes looking at this stuff than to have it leave your rig disabled on the side of the road, at which point you'll be at the mercy of an expensive tow truck. Just because you find an issue doesn't mean it's 100% guaranteed to break the next time it's driven. But consider that it could, and take appropriate action... That way, you and your rig can keep rockin' down the highway... :dance:

On the plus side, just be glad you don't have to do this at least twice a day in the process of earning your paycheck... It can always be worse. :campfire:
 
A few more revisions to streamline and make things easier to follow and differentiate between proper procedures for different brake systems. Apologies to those who have already printed this. I want this to sort of read like a flow-chart to make it as easy to comprehend as possible. :dance:
 
Are you able to make changes to your original post even after days? I thought it was just an hour or so.
 
Are you able to make changes to your original post even after days? I thought it was just an hour or so.

You can request an admin to unlock the post for editing after the 120 minute limit. I try not to make it a habit, but some things can't be helped. This is the sort of thing that it's better to update the original post rather than have people slog through five more pages of "Oh, by the way, I forgot this" -- which I figured I would miss a thing or two or realize certain things needed more clarification for those who aren't used to doing this on a daily basis. I'm fairly certain, however, that at this point the list is complete and easier to follow.

A lot of it was cramming everything into the 30,000 character limit, which meant as I realized a thing or two had been missed or needed clarification, I needed to trim words here and there, as well as move a few procedures for the purpose of consolidation and clarity.

And yes, maybe not everything will be critical just to move it to a shop or storage, but the extra 20-30 minutes for the peace of mind to prevent a tow bill or a major mechanical problem before it happens is worth its weight in gold if you find a serious problem. Remember, just because it doesn't technically require a CDL as an RV conversion, doesn't mean it's any less maintenance or dangerous if not attended to.
 
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Great pre-trip list.

Another inspection I always do on long trips is what I call the "leaving local airspace" inspection. Somewhere about 20 minutes into the trip I stop, often for fuel and/or road snacks, and break out that laser temperature gun.

This is my last opportunity to find leaks, fasten/tighten loose items and find over-temperature components before I've gotten too far to make everything bad relatively easy to deal with. Critically important in Western Australia, but worthwhile everywhere.

With the temp gun I shoot:

1. Wheel bearings.
2. Brake drums, discs & Calipers
3. Power Steering Pump
4. Radiator Upper & Lower Tanks
5. Transmission- pan & right where the cooling line comes out
6. Alternator
7. Belts and hoses if they look weird...
8. Anything making more than the usual noise...

I also break out the temp gun when refueling for spot checks, especially of the wheel bearings and trans when laden. Big fan of that little pistol- not only is it a great early warning for so many mechanical problems, but over time it teaches you a lot about how your rig actually operates.

Oh, yeah, and as obvious as it seems, I do check the pressure in the spare tire when so equipped...
 
Great pre-trip list.

Another inspection I always do on long trips is what I call the "leaving local airspace" inspection. Somewhere about 20 minutes into the trip I stop, often for fuel and/or road snacks, and break out that laser temperature gun.

This is my last opportunity to find leaks, fasten/tighten loose items and find over-temperature components before I've gotten too far to make everything bad relatively easy to deal with. Critically important in Western Australia, but worthwhile everywhere.

With the temp gun I shoot:

1. Wheel bearings.
2. Brake drums, discs & Calipers
3. Power Steering Pump
4. Radiator Upper & Lower Tanks
5. Transmission- pan & right where the cooling line comes out
6. Alternator
7. Belts and hoses if they look weird...
8. Anything making more than the usual noise...

I also break out the temp gun when refueling for spot checks, especially of the wheel bearings and trans when laden. Big fan of that little pistol- not only is it a great early warning for so many mechanical problems, but over time it teaches you a lot about how your rig actually operates.

Oh, yeah, and as obvious as it seems, I do check the pressure in the spare tire when so equipped...


Of course, it pays to know normal operating temperature for these components as a baseline...
 
Great thread! Thank you Cheese, and subsequent contributors. This is a terrific service to all of us. I hold a CDL-A, yet admit to sometimes forgetting items from such a long list. It is imperative to know all of this, AND to check it all. Schoolies may not be required to check these things, but we do remain liable for it. As others have said, I plan to print this out and refer to it often.
Again, Thank You!
Rich
 
There's also a difference in perspective between daily inspections performed by professional drivers and infrequently by RV and skoolie owners because professional drivers are in their truck every day so any prospective failure usually has symptoms which present themselves in advance of a breakdown event. RVs and skoolies though sit for weeks and months at a time so develop less obvious weaknesses that then like to fail only after a few miles down the road. A lot of the pre-trip procedure is looking for tell-tale evidence of impending failures like fluids leaking after sitting because that leaky gasket isn't easily visible even in the most thorough inspection. Unless a daily driver parks in the same place daily a slow but persistent leak may not be as self-evident until it registers as low on the gauge/dipstick.
 
Also, consider that PTIs are so much more critical on CMVs because they accumulate so much more run time and so much more mileage so much more quickly as well. It's actually more often than not the hours of runtime on these components than the miles that make them suspect, and in a way one might argue that that makes it that much more important to keep up on these things.

Booyah has said that a full annual may not necessary to go around the block, however, when a $100 part fails that winds up involving a $1200 tow bill, and a $700 shop bill, or worse, causes a crash with a $2,000,000 lawsuit that your insurance won't cover by reason of negligence, that 20-30 minutes it takes to run through this list becomes that much more reasonable.

As I've said, these behemoths are still somewhat dangerous if not handled properly, and after so much of an investment of time, blood, sweat and hard work, what's 30 minutes to protect that investment? Time is money, and a little time can save you a lot of money, if you know what to look for. It's purely in knowing what can happen, what to look at and what to look for to prevent it.

Examples...

Milky oil prior to startup... $2500 on-site inframe, or $1200 tow bill and a $7500 reman engine?

$3000 DIY trans swap, or $1800 tow bill and a $6000 reman transmission?

$30 to rewire your starter or perhaps $600 for a replacement, versus a $1400 tow bill, the hassle and embarrassment of blocking traffic when it fails to start, and a $900 shop bill?

$500 radiator, or $1700 tow bill and a $3200 radiator, cylinder head rebuild and gasket replacement? Not to mention hoping it didn't damage anything else.

Truth is, the sheer weight of these vehicles alone puts far more stress on their mechanicals than most people have a right to expect any 10-20-year-old vehicle to deal with. Most people are lucky most of the time with this sort of thing, but there are plenty of tales of woe on this site that could likely have been prevented with a little diligence and a trained eye, or simply getting to know your vehicle with a little research into common issues with its mechanicals.

As for feeling overwhelmed, you're not alone, because no one learns this stuff overnight, it takes time to get used to the routine and in the habit. PTI was more than half of my training honestly. I stared at checklists and took turns quizzing and being quizzed from flashcards until my retinas were burned in from it, over the course of three weeks.

I'm offering people here the golden opportunity to gain this knowledge without going through the expense and trouble of a CDL course. So take advantage of it. Trouble is, as has been mentioned in another post here, if you don't keep up on it, you're more likely to get complacent and not do it, which can lead to time and money wasted that might have been prevented.

Case in point, a member here just last week posted about a tire that apparently formed a bubble quickly and blew out just as quickly without their knowledge until they heard the bang of the sidewall giving out. Fortunately, it happened while they were parked and there was no harm done, but what if this had happened at 65 miles per hour with a teenybopper driving her Geo Metro beside it? Rut-row... here comes another story...

I once had a teenybopper, in her cute little graduation present (Fiat 500 convertible - seriously? Who the **** puts their 17-year-old in an overgrown golf cart?), take over 10 miles to overtake the 70 foot length of a loaded tractor-trailer. There is no excuse for this, but people do this every day. When she finally got up around my driver's door, I can see why she'd been speeding up and slowing down for the past 10 miles instead of getting the **** away from my truck. She was reaching over every so often to, surprise surprise, pick up her phone and send a text message or check Facebook or whatever the **** else she was doing on the damn thing. Which reminds me, folks, it is technically illegal to use a phone while operating these vehicles without a headset (not that I recommend it anyway), and they aren't that expensive.

Anyway, every time she picked up her phone, the car slowed down and began weaving. It may not have been very nice, but I did give her a fighting chance by allowing this BS to continue another two miles before I decide to do something. At which point I put my driver side tires on the dotted line, and did a pull up on the air horn. I always say, there's no shame in ignorance if it can be fixed, but stupid is forever. And unfortunately, stupid only learns from getting hurt. What's worse is, you can't fix stupid.
 
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Another revision -- nothing requiring a reprint for those who choose to keep a tangible copy... Just a clarification to clear up any confusion...

"It is important to know engine oil lubricates AND COOLS the engine's rotating assembly. Yes, coolant and oil both cool the engine, but should never mix. Low oil level can kick engine temperatures up a bit, just as being low on coolant will. Hence, an oil cooler can reduce engine temps."
 
Great job!! I'm a CDL examiner and instructor, aside from a few odd differences (The lowest the low air warning devices should activate is 55 psi.). This is something all Skoolie converts should read.
 
Great job!! I'm a CDL examiner and instructor, aside from a few odd differences (The lowest the low air warning devices should activate is 55 psi.). This is something all Skoolie converts should read.

Thanks! My training was with semis (60 psi) and most air-brake skoolies are built on medium duty truck chassis, which are generally 60 as well in my experience. Some transit-style and coaches may be set at 85 according to the manuals I've seen, but all my experience is with Class 8 combination vehicles. I've never seen one set at 55... But in the states, 60 is pretty much what I've seen.
 
One other clarification (updated in original post) for steep hills. When using the engine / transmission and snub / stab braking, watch your engine rpms (tachometer). Diesels can take perhaps 1900-2100 under these conditions, but don't push it -- and don't let it linger there. Back off immediately by braking.
 
55 would be the lowest before it's considered broken. Oh that's another thing I hope people are not bypassing the low air warning alarms.

I'm sure air leaks happen, but in my experience, they're either very slight (but should still be found and fixed), or leaking when I first laid eyes on it. But yes, folks, do not disable or bypass these alarms, they are there for a reason... When activated, you have very little time to get off the road before the brakes lock up. A thrown belt on a Lucas-Girling equipped bus will do the same thing, which is why I tell people to avoid them.
 
I believe I omitted checking metal brake lines and fittings for rust. Updated, which required slight rewording in other sections due to a post character limit. Nothing major, just something keep in mind for those with hydraulic or air-over-hydraulic brake systems.
 

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