rivets vs self tapping screws

chev49

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2011
Posts
1,660
Location
Oregon/Philippines
using the large size rivets and also with an air riveter is what most people do, along with steel like 18 ga, heat a bit as it goes on.
 
sdwarf36 said:
Ever see an airplane screwed together? :shock:
I have seen screwed airplanes, and a couple screwed together. But not assembled with screws....
 
richlindquist said:
I have about a half dozen rivets that have had the heads snap off. They are in various places around the bus, but are all on the very edge of the roof just above/in the rain gutter. What is the recommendation for repairing or just sealing them? I've tried running a screw into the holes but it runs into the rivet body.

Rich
Drill them out and rerivet with a slightly larger rivet. Is "rerivet" a word? I did my roof coating to the tops of my windows and covered all our roof rivets. Some were loose and I gooped elastometric caulk under the rivets, pushed them back in place (some required a tap from the hammer), smoothed caulk, let dry, re caulked & smoothed, let dry. Rolled Solarflex over it all.
 
I used 3/16" wide flange steel pop rivets that I bought at the local Menards. They only had about 3 boxes at a time (about $2 for 25 rivets), so you may need to order them online if you go that route.
 
While it looks like you are leaning towards rivits, it should be noted that the self taping screws are meant to be used to hold tin on a building. The thread pitch on them is way too steep to withstand the riggors of highway travel in a constantly flexing bus--they will simply unwind and fall out. Because the rivits are spread out on either side of the metal, they allow for some movement although they too eventually give up but only after long service.
 
i really hate to disagree, but i have put self tapping screws on the exterior of busses for 25 years, and have not had any of them fall out that i know of in my previous 4 busses. I even have some on this bus - along with rivets as well. Regular sheet metal screws if the hole is driled the correct size is far better than the self tapping ones, but takes way more time...

Just my experience..
 
Lisi
I just checked out the maine college page,I really dislike facebook,can you post some updates here also?

I am interested where this will go :)

Maybe a small build thread?
Thanks
 
'49 That's what cool about this forum. We all have had different experiences and are able to share them. Hopefully the overall result will be better built and safer Skoolies. Jack
 
On my 1988 Wayne Lifestar, the entire inside panel system is fastened with screws. No less than a Gazillion. When riveting, I prefer solid rivets if you're not in a blind area. I just use my air chisel with a chisel cut flush that I drilled a nest into that approximates the size of the rivet head. Steel rivets are always better on steel but you can use aluminum in a pinch. Ebay is the absolute best source to buy rivets at the best price, and delivered right to your front door.
 
I have had several buses. Probably half of my buses had the interior panels held in place with screws. I usually remove about 8-12 feet of roof, then put it back together again.

I have used both screws and rivets with good success.

+1 for rolling a sealant onto the roof after calking and re-assembling everything.
 
Please review the rivet gun,I am curious how many rivets it will do before wearing out the jaws
 

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