Roof hatches: substitutes and replacements

SashaRosen

New Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2017
Posts
9
Location
Chicago, IL
Anyone know of an affordable replacement or sturdy substitute for old roof hatches?
We have a 1996 International AmTran with Specialty Mfg hatches, all cracked to ****.
 
Lots of people put vents in or just skin over the opening. Somewhere on this forum is a thread with some contacts for bus graveyards/salvage that may be able to help if you are looking to keep them functional.. although by all accounts they pretty much leaked from the factory lol

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for the heads up, now just to find that thread. The "search" function seems to be disabled on my mobile browser.
 
Anyone use these?:biggrin:

19-N-31790-hatch.jpg


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14 Gauge galvanized sheet metal, works wonders, haven't had a single leak since i replaced my hatches. I loved the hatches, but every school bus driver I spoke to said they pretty much leaked from factory...
 
14 Gauge galvanized sheet metal, works wonders, haven't had a single leak since i replaced my hatches. I loved the hatches, but every school bus driver I spoke to said they pretty much leaked from factory...

I had a couple 14ga squares cut out, but man that's THICK. that's what the ribs are made of! how'd you attach it?
 
I'm planning on fabricating a new set from either steel or aluminum. I need to be able to stand up through mine to adjust the solar panel frame.
 
I used a Lewmar series 70 sea hatch. It was the correct size but I had to band saw some curved boards to make a flat surface to mount it on. The only problem is the price was pretty steep. I have yet to mount the "Ocean Skyscreen" blind/screen underneath it. So many curves and angles!
 
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I had a couple 14ga squares cut out, but man that's THICK. that's what the ribs are made of! how'd you attach it?

You are right, i just double checked it. I used 14Ga for a floor patch and 16Ga for the roof patches. I used butyl rubber tape between the patch and the roof and then I predrilled pilot holes around the perimeter and used those metal roofing screws with an integrated rubber washer. Both these, but similar:

https://www.amazon.com/Metal-ROOFIN...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MQ54X5TVJ71F312Q2MHM
 
You are right, i just double checked it. I used 14Ga for a floor patch and 16Ga for the roof patches. I used butyl rubber tape between the patch and the roof and then I predrilled pilot holes around the perimeter and used those metal roofing screws with an integrated rubber washer. Both these, but similar:

https://www.amazon.com/Metal-ROOFIN...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MQ54X5TVJ71F312Q2MHM


I was wondering! lol
After I realized 14 was WAY too thick, I got a couple of 16ga squares cut out. Still haven't stuck em up there yet.
 
Hi Skoolies! Thanks for all the great tips. In the process of converting our Mid Bus after years of deciding what would be the best platform.

The roof needs paint before winter and I need to patch hole from leaky emergency hatch and install maxx fan. Question: 2006 metal up there seems thin and I can’t find a big enough peel of steel. I can find aluminum. Can ai patch and seal that up there or am I gonna have a reaction?
 
AFAIK you'll have a reaction if it's bare metal to bare metal. As for me, when I skinned over the hatches (albeit with steel) and put in MaxxAir fans, I had so much butyl tape and sealer that there didn't seem to be a chance of metal contact between the 2 pieces of steel. The self-tapping sheet metal screws, however, is a different story......not sure how you'd get around corrosion there.
 

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