Roof Raise Questions

[Kdondley]

I am preparing for raising the roof of my bus and I have a handful of questions.

1) Is it fine to reuse the old wires to extent the wires to all the lights or should I buy new?

2a) Unless I can find a REALLY good deal on double-pane windows, I’m looking for single-pane rv windows (with frames). Where is a good, reliable, cost effective place to buy these new? I read something about Lippert being an ok place to buy windows but that customer service is horrible/non responsive? I’m very hesitant buying anything from Amazon because of quality issues with other products from that site.

2b) Where does one buy shuttle bus windows?

3a) I really like what Transcend Existence (MuddaEarth) did with the openable window for the transition. Is there a reason why the window opens to the sky vs the regular way? All I could think of was to be able to pass things up to a roof deck.

3b) Are there specific vehicles that are better to source the hatch window from?

3c) How do I rig the latch system to open from the inside? Preferably manually but I’m open to having an electrical opening, too.

4) I have a Thomas, is it better to make all the cuts in the same place or to stagger them?

5) For the back corner support, do I need to fabricate an extension that matches what’s already there or is there any easier way? Note: I’m raising 16”

Photos for reference:





:Thanx:

*I’m not sure why the photos rotated when I attached them*

 

[Bjorkinman]

Two things, watch Chuck Cassidy’s video on raising the roof. Very helpful. I used the Skoolie.com hat channel extensions and they worked really well. Yes you will need to do a lot of on the spot fabrication, I tried to plan EVERYTHING before hand but a lot of things happen in real time, I wouldn’t sweat the small spots like that. As far as the window goes, I do love transcends window he did, but to make things easier you could just buy and put in a galamarine hatch. Skoolie.com sells pre fab roof inserts to fit them.
I bought all Lippert windows from eBay, I believe michiganrvwgolesale was the seller, I called them direct and they bundled the shipping into a single pallet for me. I have several windows left over that I changed the sizes that I’m looking to sell, they are Lippert dual pane roughly 21 tall by 30 wide. I have 2 or 3 left, I’m in Atlanta. Also, the Amazon’s and recpro windows are really cheap- I would just try to stay with Lippert.

 

[Mr P]

 

[Kdondley]

Thank for the reply! I’ve watched that particular video so many times �� but I hadn’t see the next video about framing out the back cap. I’m definitely only trying to plan out what needs to/can be done before hand because things RARELY go as planned. I’m mainly trying to wrap my head around how I’m going to do it so I can put in my metal order. Our supplier is over an hour away so no quick trips to pick up more on the spot. I’ve chosen to use rectangle tubing instead of hat channel extensions, partly for the supply reason, partly for ease, and partly for cost.
Great suggestion for the galamarine hatch, although, I can only find smaller square ones for sale but I’ll keep digging.
Do your leftover windows open? Do you have photos? I have two openings that those could fit in. All the other windows are going to be bigger.

 

[Bjorkinman]

Yes the windows open and I think one may be an emergency exit. I don’t have any pics at the moment because they are stored at my work. I can take pics though in about a week and send them to you. Definitely fabricate the alignment jig that cassady shows in his video, that as the single best piece of equipment I had. Also, clamp some 1x2 steel into the lower hat channels when you start lifting to act as a guide to keep the roof in plane.
I’ll repost the pics when I get to the windows. I’ll also try to take a pic of the jig I fabricated for the raise.

 

[Kdondley]

Also, clamp some 1x2 steel into the lower hat channels when you start lifting to act as a guide to keep the roof in plane.

Good call. I was thinking of doing something like this but I was over complicating it. I was also debating on if I should make the jig but I’ll go ahead and do it.

Pictures would be great when you get a chance. I have a handful of friends heading down to Georgia soon! I’m in Virginia.

 

[ewo1]

QUOTE=Kdondley;521058

I am preparing for raising the roof of my bus and I have a handful of questions.

1) Is it fine to reuse the old wires to extent the wires to all the lights or should I buy new?

If the wire conductor is in good condition, clean and not discolored from heat, then yes it is ok to reuse the wires.

2a) Unless I can find a REALLY good deal on double-pane windows, I’m looking for single-pane rv windows (with frames). Where is a good, reliable, cost effective place to buy these new? I read something about Lippert being an ok place to buy windows but that customer service is horrible/non responsive? I’m very hesitant buying anything from Amazon because of quality issues with other products from that site.

My personal thought on this is USED windows from an RV takeout. You can find windows many times on marketplace. It is simply a cost factor for me.

2b) Where does one buy shuttle bus windows?

I have found, many times, good ol truck junkyard will have from time to time, transit busses ready to be cut up!

3a) I really like what Transcend Existence (MuddaEarth) did with the openable window for the transition. Is there a reason why the window opens to the sky vs the regular way? All I could think of was to be able to pass things up to a roof deck.

My observations on this, 1) wind control. If it was installed with the hinges up on top, you would have some serious constant upward pressure wanting to lift, rip open the window. Not to mention some annoying wind draft noise! 2) The shape of the glass really fits the body lines in it's inverted position coupled with the bends and bows of the rear door shape.
Again, my personal observations....if I too had to install it these would be some of my fabrication considerations.

3b) Are there specific vehicles that are better to source the hatch window from?

3c) How do I rig the latch system to open from the inside? Preferably manually but I’m open to having an electrical opening, too.

Your gonna have to get creative on this one and share how you did it!

4) I have a Thomas, is it better to make all the cuts in the same place or to stagger them?

I might be mistaken but I remember reading here something about needing to cut below the windows in order to raise the roof as the sides of a Thomas bus are not straight, they are angled. Double check on this thought! I personally have done 2 roof raises and each one were with staggered cuts, eliminates a "Shear line"

5) For the back corner support, do I need to fabricate an extension that matches what’s already there or is there any easier way? Note: I’m raising 16”

I am not familiar with the Thomas body, only have worked on Intl/Amtran's so far. If you like, take a look at my build thread, post #13 is where I start the roof raise.

 

[Bjorkinman]

Windows

Here’s a couple pictures of the windows. I believe these are only to be installed on the driver side, they slide open and also swing out open for emergence exit. They are 30” wide by 20” tall. I’ll take 200 for both if you’re interested. If you want them I’ll scrape off the butyl tape that’s on from where I had them installed. They we’re new when I bought them. If you’re interested just text me at 678-446-9295. I’m right near Atlanta.

 

[Mat7783]

Don’t be cheap

If you are doing the roof raise work yourself,will be saving thousands of dollars,so put double pane rv windows in place.as I learned the hard way that the metal bus is not a great insulator so windows and insulation only help with this fight.

 

[Mr P]

I'm contemplating a raise....my question is: When Cassidy installs the new metal using rivets on the sides and bottom, what happens at the very top edge where it meets the roof?? If he describes that I've missed it....

 

[ewo1]

Take a look at post #44 of my build thread. I explain how I addressed your question, "what happens at the very top edge".

Bus # 9906

 

[Mr P]

Sure, you removed/reinstalled rivets along the top. Cassidy did not. I see your way as being the most secure. But how'd Cassidy get away without? Seam sealer or something??

 

[ewo1]

Yes, you can simply slide it up under the drip rail until you touch the rivets. Stop there and seam seal both inside and out.

I went the extra mile and made sure my yellow submarine won't sink!

 

[Bjorkinman]

If I had it to do over, I would not have removed the rivets along the top. Way too much work. I would just seam seal it. I have a hard time believing anything would bypass that.

 

[ewo1]

Yes, too much work...maybe I should have explianed myself better but I did not remove all the rivets, just the 3 rivets on each post between windows. I slid the panels up under the existing rivets. Had to do a minor bend on the drip rail but only enough to slide the panels underneath the rivets. The reason I only used the 3 holes was so the I could lift the panels in place and have them held up securely so it wouldn't fall and cut my toes off while working. I did the roof raise by myself, 1 man job.

 

[Mat7783]

Very nice presentation

 

[Bjorkinman]

Yes, too much work...maybe I should have explianed myself better but I did not remove all the rivets, just the 3 rivets on each post between windows. I slid the panels up under the existing rivets. Had to do a minor bend on the drip rail but only enough to slide the panels underneath the rivets. The reason I only used the 3 holes was so the I could lift the panels in place and have them held up securely so it wouldn't fall and cut my toes off while working. I did the roof raise by myself, 1 man job.

Me too man. I did the raise all by myself, the sheet metal lifting was the hardest part, 4x10 sheets. I used 6x6 posts to rest the sheets on so I could attach the ratchet straps for the final 6 inches or so. Two people would really have been helpful, but such is life sometimes.

 

[nikitis]

I suggest for lifting to have a ratchet strap with a counter weight thrown over the other side of the roof and hold your sheet. Makes it weigh almost nothing if you get the counter balance right.

I haven't done one myself yet, but the principal is sound. I suggested it to another user here and he said it worked very well for him.

 

[AlphaHare]

Late to the game, but yes Thomas often has a subtle draft to the walls. Here's the Mintour but I think it's often replicated on other Thomas busses. It's hard to see until you know to look for it.

 

[nikitis]

22 and 1/2 minus 20 and 29/32 a little under 2 inches which is the bane of my Thomas's existance for the roof raise. From your docs.

I think it varies though and is more pronounced on the smaller Thomas bodies. On my 8 window, i think it's less than that. I saw one at skoolie.com's garage which was very pronounced and looked like nearly 2 inches, but on my bus it almost looks straight, but is about 1 inch of variance.