Rust converter preference

[tugboater-SKO]

I have very little experience at most of what it takes to turn a bus into a livable space. We're so early in our conversion that I don't feel comfortable offering solutions...even opinions for that matter. However, maintenance painting is something I do know a little about, so here goes. I feed my kids and pay my bills by working on tugboats. Tugboats are generally steel & work in saltwater. Preventative maintenance is part of the job. Most in the industry supply their paint lockers with Corroseal. As a young sailor I once was chastised & sent back to the marine supply store because I came back to the boat with a case of Ospho. "Do you want to paint the stern again next hitch or next year?"

Without question, prep is the most important phase of the paint process. Dealing with rust is paramount if you want the bus to last. There's a reason rust is sometimes referred to as cancer. Dang I hate painting boats...in fact, painting and crawling beneath the double bottoms of barges is what motivated me to get in the wheelhouse as fast as I could.

Finding a bus with little or no rust was a HUGE priority of mine. We have a tiny bit of surface rust on the inside, around the wheel wells. Nothing a wire wheel wont clean up, but I'm still going to Corroseal them. There are many instances where using the highest quality products are not as important to me, but this one is.

All of this said, be careful...all I wrote just the opinion & preference of a few sailors

 

[Mark_In_MA]

Keeping with the fishing metaphor, you just opened a can of worms.

The good news, is they're all hard-working but opinionated worms.

Lots of people on here have different preferences for which rust converter to use. There's been a few threads discussing it lately. Some people prefer the Ospho, some prefer the Coroseal, and a few people have used the Rustoleum rust converter. (The brush-on stuff, NOT the combined converter/primer in the spray can.) They all work, use the one that works for you. (Often, that's the one that's cheapest.)

 

[tugboater-SKO]

Can of worms? Seems to be a common question/topic on here, just figured I'd shared my opinion. I believe worth spending the extra cash if you don't already have a lesser grade converter on hand. In that case, yeah I'd just use what I had. They all work, some just better than others.

 

[EastCoastCB]

Can of worms? Seems to be a common question/topic on here, just figured I'd shared my opinion. I believe worth spending the extra cash if you don't already have a lesser grade converter on hand. In that case, yeah I'd just use what I had. They all work, some just better than others.

Rust Reformer is the absolute best rust converter I've tried.

 

[tugboater-SKO]

Rust Reformer is the absolute best rust converter I've tried.

Guessing this one is probably easier to find than many of the others.

It would be cool to set up a poll on here for items like this, adhesives, rivets...other consumables etc. Maybe something like that already exists & I just haven't seen it?

 

[EastCoastCB]

Guessing this one is probably easier to find than many of the others.

It would be cool to set up a poll on here for items like this, adhesives, rivets...other consumables etc. Maybe something like that already exists & I just haven't seen it?

You have to order it. Its not easy to find in the gallon and the spray can isn't the same stuff.
Its been tested against the other brands and proven to be better.https://www.ncptt.nps.gov/blog/comparative-study-of-commercially-available-rust-converters/

 

[tugboater-SKO]

Its been tested against the other brands and proven to be better.https://www.ncptt.nps.gov/blog/comparative-study-of-commercially-available-rust-converters/

This is awesome. Thanks for sharing.

Scientific evidence = better than crotchety sailor opinion

 

[EastCoastCB]

This is awesome. Thanks for sharing.

Scientific evidence = better than crotchety sailor opinion

Yep. To be fair the best performer in that test was a solution made with 10% tannic acid. But it has to be mixed and isn't a readily formulated product.
I've used Rust Reformer on some serious rust and the stuff works.
I'm also a big fan of Ospho but when the rust is serious that RR stuff is the best I've tried and its way cheaper than Por-15.

 

[Mark_In_MA]

Can of worms? Seems to be a common question/topic on here, just figured I'd shared my opinion. I believe worth spending the extra cash if you don't already have a lesser grade converter on hand. In that case, yeah I'd just use what I had. They all work, some just better than others.

I meant can of worms in the sense that everyone has a different opinion on which one they prefer. It's one of those things I've seen people tend to get a little. . .not combative, but I'd say strongly opinionated about. (I'm not trying to point fingers, or suggest that it's a problem - that's the point of a forum - you get lots of opinions and perspectives.)

 

[EastCoastCB]

I meant can of worms in the sense that everyone has a different opinion on which one they prefer. It's one of those things I've seen people tend to get a little. . .not combative, but I'd say strongly opinionated about. (I'm not trying to point fingers, or suggest that it's a problem - that's the point of a forum - you get lots of opinions and perspectives.)

Because there are a lot of fecophiliacs.

 

[tugboater-SKO]

It's one of those things I've seen people tend to get a little. . .not combative, but I'd say strongly opinionated about. (I'm not trying to point fingers, or suggest that it's a problem - that's the point of a forum - you get lots of opinions and perspectives.)

Ahh, yes Mark...agreed. Outside of jumping on random forums for brief moments to search for a solution , I haven't spent much time on them. This is the first one I've ever "lurked" on as some say, and I've definitely noticed quite a few feisty opinions. Some full of hot air, some full of good stuff. Sorting that out can be a challenge at first...but there seems to be some pretty sharp folks offering advice here. Just gotta find 'em when you need them!

 

[MIKE N STEPH]

We used the loctite extend brush on stuff and it seems to work well it is sold in our local advance auto parts store

 

[JDSquared]

Rust Reformer is the absolute best rust converter I've tried.

Hey EastCoast, I can't seem to find this. I found some 8oz containers on Amazon and Walmart.com, but no gallons.

I need much more than 8oz!

Where can I get this?
I'll even drive to Florida if I have to.


And..... I added the word gallon to my search lol. That was easy!

Thank you.

 

[EastCoastCB]

I *think* I ordered it off walmart.

 

[ol trunt]

I'm late to the party but since I'm all dressed up I'll show up anyway.

I used Rustmort on various spots on my bus (about $20 a quart these days) and was pleased with it's fast action and depth of penetration. Later I was given a gallon of Krud Kutter. It works OK but takes much longer and does not penetrate as well.

What worked PERFECT fore me was electrolytic rust removal--of course you have to remove the parts so you can dip them but if you happened to have a swimming pool to dip the entire nus in you'd have it made!

Jack

.

 

[Native-SKO]

That's some nasty looking business in that tub!

 

[PNW_Steve]

I used the Prep and Etch (?) from Home Depot. I am not thrilled with how it works.

I wire brushed and applied the rust converter three times before I was happy with it.

 

[ol trunt]

Native, its baking soda and water. Once it really gets going it begins to look like a big batch of chili with beans! When the power is turned off and the water is allowed to sit the "rust" drops out of suspension and the water becomes clear again. The water can be evaporated and the sediment once dry goes right to the land fill.
Jack

 

[TheHubbardBus]

We just recently finished sealing our floor. Details are on the last page of our build thread in sig if anyone's interested. I won't repeat it all here. Just to summarize, we used a combination of a grinder w/ wire wheel, orbital sander, & an ospho clone (found at Lowes - same thing - ~45% phosphoric acid) to deal with rust. Once ospho was neutralized & surface degreased & dried, we laid down multiple coats of a moisture-cured urethane (KBS Rust Seal). No way to know what the future holds, but I'd be very surprised if the rust wasn't pretty much stopped dead in its tracks.

 

[Native-SKO]

Native, its baking soda and water. Once it really gets going it begins to look like a big batch of chili with beans! When the power is turned off and the water is allowed to sit the "rust" drops out of suspension and the water becomes clear again. The water can be evaporated and the sediment once dry goes right to the land fill.
Jack

Ah yes baking sode and water make a great buffer solution.


What was the % or baking soda to water (i.e. the recipe)?


I see in the photo there is one wire. Where is it attached?


Where is the second wire attched?


How much current and at what voltage?


Care to write up an "Electrolysis 101" thread?