Rustoleum floor paint

[2RideTheGlobe]

I apologize if I'm digging up things that have already been discussed, but I've read through tons of the floor prep threads, have wire brushed, chipped the rust, sanded and cleaned my floor with Corroseal. In reading all of these threads it seems that most everyone uses Rustoleum primer as the first paint coat on their floors. And most of these buses (mine included) have galvanized metal floors. The Rustoleum directions online and on the can specifically say NOT to use on galvanized metal. Can anyone tell me why? From everything I read, it looks like it works just fine for everybody here. I'm a bit confused...

 

[gs1949]

There are other, recent threads that deal better with this, so I recommend you spend more time searching.

But to answer your question about using Rust-Oleum on galvanized metal, it works fine it your galvanized has been "etched" with an acid. Ospho and other rust converters, use phosphoric acid, so no problem there.

But it's not just older, somewhat rusty galvanized that must be etched. New galvanized needs to be etched too. Obviously you could use Ospho to etch new metal, but that's kind of a waste, and when I was at that point someone here suggested vinegar. So that's what I used for my patches, which were made from new galvanized scraps I got from a local sheet metal place.


edit, Here's a recent thread I started about etching new metal:

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f10/etching-new-galvanized-metal-with-ospho-27792.html

 

[2RideTheGlobe]

Thanks. That makes sense. Odd that Rustoleum doesn't give an instruction to etch galvanized metal before painting, rather than saying simply "Don't use our product." They'd sell more product if they told how to properly use it.

Thanks again for taking the time to explain. Now I can get back to painting my floor.

 

[Sleddgracer]

Thanks. That makes sense. Odd that Rustoleum doesn't give an instruction to etch galvanized metal before painting, rather than saying simply "Don't use our product." They'd sell more product if they told how to properly use it.

Thanks again for taking the time to explain. Now I can get back to painting my floor.

having been in the painting trade for most of my adult life and witnessed how few people bother to take the time to read instructions printed on the can, or pay attention to them if they do read them, I can see where it would save hassle for the rustoleum people to just say, 'don't do it' - I've painted many weathered galvanized metal roofs with rustoleum or tremclad and it held up for years - the biggest problem with the various rust inhibiting paints is their rapid oxidization that dulls the finish more rapidly than most enamels, which is something that matters little on the floor of a bus and doesn't happen so quickly when it's covered up like it's likely to be in a bus

 

[gs1949]

There are also self-etching primers, and I think Rust-Oleum might make some of those, but I have never used a self-etching paint and don't know anything about how they hold up.

And perhaps I should add something here that you will get out of the thread I referred you to if you read the whole thing, which is that any acid, whether it's Ospho, vinegar or any other acid, needs to be rinsed off very well.

After my Ospho dried for 2 days, I spent maybe 3 hours in the bus with a garden hose and an old worn-down corn broom rinsing the acid away. I shut off the main switch first so there was no power anywhere except the battery.

I'm sure my rinse job was plenty good enough, but if I'd had quick access to a pressure washer I would have used it because it would be quicker. Obviously, you have to let everything dry again before you can paint.

 

[tugboater-SKO]

I have a paint rep at a local Rodda Paint shop that I trust. I use him for commercial application projects. When I went to paint my floor (same as yours, galvanized) he brought up the same thing. He recommended this paint, because it bonds to galvanized better.

 

[Sleddgracer]

I have a paint rep at a local Rodda Paint shop that I trust. I use him for commercial application projects. When I went to paint my floor (same as yours, galvanized) he brought up the same thing. He recommended this paint, because it bonds to galvanized better. View attachment 35985

I haven't used that particular product, but i have used similar - should be a good primer

 

[2RideTheGlobe]

I have a paint rep at a local Rodda Paint shop that I trust. I use him for commercial application projects. When I went to paint my floor (same as yours, galvanized) he brought up the same thing. He recommended this paint, because it bonds to galvanized better. View attachment 35985

Thanks. Since you were at a Rodda shop I assume you used Corroseal? There's nothing on the Corroseal about "don't use on galvanized metal", and it is literally a layer of clear on top of the metal that the Rustoleum is going to then sit on top of. And I haven't seen anyone on here having any problems with that combination, so I'm going to "assume" I'm good to go.

 

[Sleddgracer]

Thanks. Since you were at a Rodda shop I assume you used Corroseal? There's nothing on the Corroseal about "don't use on galvanized metal", and it is literally a layer of clear on top of the metal that the Rustoleum is going to then sit on top of. And I haven't seen anyone on here having any problems with that combination, so I'm going to "assume" I'm good to go.

why not use what's recommended?

 

[gs1949]

Is Corroseal self-etching, perhaps?

 

[gs1949]

XIM appears to be a Rust-Oleum brand. There is a link to a page selling XIM products from Rust-Oleum's homepage. Downloaded the data sheet but haven't looked yet.


OK, I looked and did not see anything about galvanized, and all it says about rust under surface prep is to remove it.