Sell me on removing the walls...

[AnimalBusHaus]

Hello!

I'm nearing the demo phase of my '07 International CE300 conversion. I'm struggling to see why I should remove the inner wall panels, but knowing that it's a popular choice, I'd like to try to be convinced.

Some info:
I'm not planning to do spray foam, and will instead be using 1.5" foam board because (A) it's cheaper, and ( I'll mostly be using this bus in CA and the American Southwest.

As such, I'm presently planning to build my interior walls on top of these panels, with the thought that: (A) it's less demo, ( I won't have to frame in window supports, and (C) after resealing the windows, if there were a leak (God forbid), any damage or issues would occur in my interior build, and in theory be easier to fix than, say, the exterior panels rusting from the inside out.

I'm open to having my mind changed. They're secured with philips screws, so thankfully no rivets to deal with. Please share your wisdom. Thanks!

 

[desrtdog]

I'm not sure why you wouldn't remove the panels - especially given that they are fastened with screws. I removed all of them in my BB because I wanted to maintain all of the original width of the bus, and once I got into the walls, was glad I did so, because the "insulation" that was in there was NASTY - old fiberglass batts that were covered in dirt.

You don't have to spray foam the cavity - I used 1-3/4" of R-matte insulation to fill my walls (1" thick board and 3/4" thick board cut to allow them to slide into the lower part of the wall). Not following your comment about framing out the window supports, as those should be intact. Post #6 of my build thread here has a few pics of walls.

At the end of the day, your choice on what you do, but I would definitely do the same again - and my walls were riveted in place.

 

[nikitis]

The reason to remove them is so you can check for leaks. But windows leak period. You may need to work on some of the ribs inside. Rust removal, etc. the back panels are probably fine. The insulation is crappy. And old. Just my 2 cents

Though if this is just a quick bus job and you don’t care about long term it’s fine to avoid.

 

[ewo1]

Besides checking for leaks, I went ahead and doubled up on the insulation.

I am using 1 inch insulation board and then once my wood framing is in I am sticking a 1 1/2 inch in that space so in essence I will have 2 1/2 inches of foam board insulation wherever there is no window.

Simmers and freezing winters can be brutal, you can't have too much insulation!

 

[AnimalBusHaus]

Thanks for the reply.

The windows seal where they red on these panels, right? Did you cut the panels so that part was still there?

 

[DeMac]

You Decide the Quality of Your Own Craftmanship

Thanks for the reply.

The windows seal where they red on these panels, right? Did you cut the panels so that part was still there?

------------------
The interior walls can be left intact. You do have the final say.

The walls are folded under the windows, then welded and riveted to the exterior skin AND the top rub rail. Three layers of steel. Do not frame in new window supports.

Cut the panels about an inch (or more) below the windows. I used an oscillating tool but a grinder works well, too.

The panels are secured using adhesive and Pozidriv screws. No phillips heads. They back out easily if you use the correct driver. A metal scraper and hammer are used to break the glue seal.

The cavity is 1-1/-2" thick. Replace the fiberglass with the new insulation.

 

[AnimalBusHaus]

Thank you. I’m sold ��

 

[Kentucky Dreaming]

DeMac knows of what he speaks. One of a many valuable personages here. Thou shalt listeneth to him.

 

[tguy1241]

Just adding the standard caution against possible mold in the walls, ceiling, & floors where moisture might have leaked in and started growing in the old insulation. Regardless of where you will be operating your bus, mold can and will grow if given the chance. If you plan to flip this bus, it will matter to the new buyer, & if you want to live in the bus, get rid of the old insulation in ceiling, walls, and floors. clean out any mold and seal up everything. The pros in this group can give you more tips in that area. Mold SPORES can live for hundreds of years or more, so take this precaution for future bus generations.

 

[nikitis]

I just grinding wheeled mine off close to the windows. The metal shards wasn't even hot enough to damage any windows.

Pop off all of the screws / rivets, pull the panels up as if to bend them so they stick out a bit, and then grind wheel them at the top off.

Yes it can leave a little metal that's sharp, but you can also go back and smooth that out.