First, the roof was washed (scrubbed with a deck brush and power washer) with trisodium phosphate (TSP). Then came resealing the emergency roof exits, and 2 coats of Henry Tropicool 887.
I removed most of my 28" windows (ok, the windows themselves are about 26.5"...it's 28" from mounting screwhole to mounting screwhole) and built panels out of 18 gauge steel, 2x4s and plywood which all got primer on all sides before assembly and installation.
All my rust has been ground out, treated with Rust Mort and fibreglasssed over. The reflective tape on my bus was applied with some kind of bondo or very thick glue which required uncounted hours with a grinder with an 80 grit flapper disc to remove. Then came building back up the surface to be even with the rest of the paint. More hours of body puddy, sanding, filler-primer, more sanding, more primer, more sanding. Somewhere along the way my local glass shop cut me a new windshield to replace one that caught a rock.
Once everything was (mostly) even it was time for... More sanding! This time of all the yellow paint (or, more accurately the clear coat on top of the yellow paint) in prep for spraying all the primer and paint with 2 coats of automotive sealer so I have a uniform color to paint my color coat onto.
Every time I think I am ready for the paint booth I find another thing to do. I was going to seal the wall panels after painting, however after a cold snap (Did I mention I am living in the bus full time while converting and working 40+ hours a week?) I decided to use a paintable lap sealant before painting.
My experiment with spray foam insulation was a complete failure. I tried spraying one panel, and it made such a mess I was going to give up and try rigid insulation.
Until I read that spray foam insulation does not stick to wax paper. So I made a jig that bolted to the frame, and I could spray the foam in and let it expand. That is not what happened. There was not enough air or moisture or something for the foam to cure.
The instructions said it would be firm in 10 minutes and cure over night. So an hour after I sprayed it in I removed the jig and the uncured foam glooped down the wall, and now I have one zombie goop wall I get to clean up somehow. Inside I have 90% of the demolition amd removal done. All the seats out, most of the vinyl floor ripped out, handicap restraint rails drilled out and removed.
I have most of my conversion stuff ready to go... 50 amp inlet box, 50 amp in-line surge protector, 50 amp service cord, water inlet box with city line and tank fill connections, water pump, tankless propane water heater, fresh water tank, black water tank, outside shower box, propane stove/oven, propane or 110V refrigerator, leveling jacks, sewer line.
Still a LOT of work to do, but the finish line is getting closer.
I removed most of my 28" windows (ok, the windows themselves are about 26.5"...it's 28" from mounting screwhole to mounting screwhole) and built panels out of 18 gauge steel, 2x4s and plywood which all got primer on all sides before assembly and installation.
All my rust has been ground out, treated with Rust Mort and fibreglasssed over. The reflective tape on my bus was applied with some kind of bondo or very thick glue which required uncounted hours with a grinder with an 80 grit flapper disc to remove. Then came building back up the surface to be even with the rest of the paint. More hours of body puddy, sanding, filler-primer, more sanding, more primer, more sanding. Somewhere along the way my local glass shop cut me a new windshield to replace one that caught a rock.
Once everything was (mostly) even it was time for... More sanding! This time of all the yellow paint (or, more accurately the clear coat on top of the yellow paint) in prep for spraying all the primer and paint with 2 coats of automotive sealer so I have a uniform color to paint my color coat onto.
Every time I think I am ready for the paint booth I find another thing to do. I was going to seal the wall panels after painting, however after a cold snap (Did I mention I am living in the bus full time while converting and working 40+ hours a week?) I decided to use a paintable lap sealant before painting.
My experiment with spray foam insulation was a complete failure. I tried spraying one panel, and it made such a mess I was going to give up and try rigid insulation.
Until I read that spray foam insulation does not stick to wax paper. So I made a jig that bolted to the frame, and I could spray the foam in and let it expand. That is not what happened. There was not enough air or moisture or something for the foam to cure.
The instructions said it would be firm in 10 minutes and cure over night. So an hour after I sprayed it in I removed the jig and the uncured foam glooped down the wall, and now I have one zombie goop wall I get to clean up somehow. Inside I have 90% of the demolition amd removal done. All the seats out, most of the vinyl floor ripped out, handicap restraint rails drilled out and removed.
I have most of my conversion stuff ready to go... 50 amp inlet box, 50 amp in-line surge protector, 50 amp service cord, water inlet box with city line and tank fill connections, water pump, tankless propane water heater, fresh water tank, black water tank, outside shower box, propane stove/oven, propane or 110V refrigerator, leveling jacks, sewer line.
Still a LOT of work to do, but the finish line is getting closer.
