spinning those wrenches

timbuk

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2007
Posts
1,028
Location
vancouver island bc
hi i was thinking that a good thread to start would be mechanical talk. notspecialized to any part of the bus but all areas in general this could include such subjects as brakework,wiper moter changes taillight and vehicle wiring,tuneup tips,exhaust tips,injector talk,engine talk,clutch,cooling,and anything else that would come up.people know tricks and like to learn/share them.what do you all think? timbuk
 
I'm game. I know some tricks of my own and I'm ALWAYS looking for new ways to make work quicker. The quicker I work the more jobs I get done and the more jobs I get done the more money I make. :D
 
some times it aint about the money either just gettin er done and having time for other things likeusing your bus instead of a bunch of head scratchin and ive scratched my head lots-got no hair! this would be a great thread!
 
Well let me start by listing 5 absolutely indispensable tools that prevent much aggravation for me.

1. Quality ratchets. My tools are my bread and butter and I can tell you there is no more important tool to me. There is nothing worse than banging yourself up when a tool breaks, not to mention having to deal with getting a new one. I happen to be a Snap-On guy, but there are many other quality units out there. I've found eBay to be a great source. I've very rarely broken a socket, even cheap ones, but I've shredded my fair share of ratchets (I actually got to the point where I had five 3/8 drive Craftsman ratchets just so I could finish a project). I do have to say that the polished "Next Gen" Craftsman ratchets are nice and I really like the 60? tooth count.

2. An assortment of hammers. It's a sad reality when wrenching that an awful lot of stuff is going to have to be beat to smitherings to get it apart. You can never have too many hammers of all shapes and sizes with ballpeins being the most prevalent in the automotive field. The very best hammers I've ever owned is a five piece set from Harbor Freight (item number 39217-5VGA) of all places. I think I paid $17 for the set. The fiberglass handles have held up GREAT and there is the right size for most jobs, save for a true BFH, but everyone should have one of those anyway.

3. An impact wrench. Contrary to popular belief it has been my experience that an impact is LESS likely to break stuff than hand tools. In fact, one of my favorite techniques for getting brake bleeders loose is to put my impact on them with it at its lowest setting and just let it sit there and gently hammer at an idle. If you hammer them of course they're going to snap right off, but using the right technique I've never broken one using the impact, but I've stripped and broken plenty by hand. As far as impacts go you need to buy what you can afford, but get as much gun for the money as you can. I'm a HUGE fan of Aircat air tools. They come in quite a bit cheaper than Chicago Pneumatic or Ingersol Rand, but have all the power of those big names and they're QUIET. My half inch impact is an Aircat Nitrocat 1000-TC and I love it. I think they can be had off eBay for less than $200. For the biggest, baddest half inch gun out there I think you can't go wrong with an IR 2135Ti. Those suckers have SNORT! But they're also loud and $300 or more. A CP734 or IR231 are classic steel body workhorse guns.

4. A torch. There is nothing that a torch can't disassemble. When all else fails heat will most likely get something apart or burn it out. It really is an impossible tool to avoid if you're going to do any automotive work on old stuff (or new stuff in the rust belt!). You don't need one of the big torch setups for casual use. One of the small caddy torches works great. It just isn't cost effective in the long run for heavy use. Even a MAPP gas torch is better than nothing. Also, when shopping for a torch setup you might want to look at an oxy-propane setup. These are very cost effective given the price difference of propane and acetylene. They perform very much on par with oxy-acetylene for all purposes other than welding.

5. Good safety gear. It's easy to neglect safety gear until something bad happens. The most important thing I've found is getting PPE that is comfortable. If it's comfortable I'll use it. If not I won't. It's just that simple. I have a great pair of muffs that I will use with any air tool other than my Aircat. I can't stand safety glasses so I have a full face shield that I wear anytime I'm cutting, grinding, risk breaking/shattering a part, taking apart a pressurized system, whatever. The added benefit of a full face shield is that...well...it protects your whole face. Gloves can't be overlooked either. A heavy duty pair of leather gloves might save your fingers. Rubber gloves will prevent a lot of burns from hot liquids or chemicals. Form fitting work gloves will prevent busted knuckles and pinches. Finally, a good pair of work shows is absolutely necessary. I have a pair of $30 steel toe boots from Dunham Sports that I wear day in and day out. They are anti-skid, support my ankle, and offer crush protection. I've done a lot of stupid stuff in my day, but every injury and scar convinces me a little more the value of protecting what you have. You only have one body and a lot of times you only have one chance!
 
and mthere you go already a wealth of knowledge posted here already looks like this would be a great forum im a headin to canadian tire tomorrow to but a couple of hydraulic jacks 40% off gonna get a 20 and a 12 gotta pull the duallys and the axles and put in new wheel clyinders im bettin that if the fronts were near impossible to pull off(days,heat,sore back) these rears should be a nightmare :mrgreen:
 
hammers, I like to use a big hammer, i can always choke up and tap easy but you can't make a little hammer hit big, 2 oz ball pein for delicate work,2 1/2 pound mini sledge with 18" fiberglass handle, 10# sledge with 18" handle, 12# and 20# sledges for serious work. brass,plastic,rubber and deadblow hammers also all have appropriate uses.

for axle/brake work on duals, a piece of heavy sheetmetal and liquid soap or lube to slide the tires and hub assembly on and off the axle saves a lot of physical work, jack up and support the frame so that the tires are still on the ground, loosen the axleshaft bolts, hit the end of the shaft with a sledge to pop the flange and wedges loose then remove the axle hardware and shaft, jack the tires up just enuff to slide the lubed sheet steel under the tires, lower the axle untill the tires just touch the steel, remove the wheel bearing nuts and tab washers, slide the wheel,hub,drum assy off of the axle, service the brakes and bearings and reassemble in the reverse order.

a scoop shovel is a handy way to lever tires up onto the hub/drum without leaving your fingernails behind if your not tire shop trained and equiped.

PPE, gloves, kevlar hi temp gloves are great for dry heat, but WARNING, they trap wet heat against your skin, do not wear them while working with hot liquids.
 
TOOLS... I NEED MORE TOOLS!!! And a concrete floor to work on.... My gravel driveway is really getting to me...
 
the_experience03 said:
I was so confused the first time I walked into a Canadian Tire. It seemed that about the only thing they DIDN'T have was tires. :?

i'm a big fan of canadian tire. I don't think there is a similar store here in the US, at least not near where i live.
 
i like big air and the slide trick works awsome wit the rear wheels im gonna do it all right soon ill be postin it i pulled mwrenches all weekend!
 
dust mask filters are available for dust/dirt particles and or chemical fume filtration, read the chart included with the face piece of your choice and buy and use the proper filter for what you are working with, some adhesives and paint products are hazardous to brain cells and life in general.
 
ok i gotta pull off the rear wheels of the bus this weekend irdered the 4 rear wheel cylinders should come in around 400 bucks after the smoke(GST,PST) i do not have to seperate the dualls but i would like to for servicability down the road.I fought with the fronts to seperate the wheel from the drum and it damn near killed me.Even the lug nuts would not come undone withouy heat im soaking the rears in wd40 as i typo this.ANY TIPS ON THIS ONE? I bet these wheels have been on there for over 10 years....... :shock: Timbuk
 
When even the portapower fails my last ditch trick for getting wheels off is to leave the nuts on loose and go do some violent figure eights in the parking lot. Unfortunately this ultimately destroys the studs and won't do you any good.

Got a big hammer? :LOL:
 
the_experience03 said:
Got a big hammer? :LOL:

that's what the guys do at the big truck tire store. They beat on the rim (i prob wouldn't try that with an alluminum rim) right where it meets the tire, and they use a full size sledge hammer. Sometimes it takes a few swings or more for things to pop loose. oh yeah, if you have dayton style rims make sure you leave the lugnuts loose but screwed in a few threads or so to keep the little triangle wedges from taking out your kneecaps when they pop loose. see photo:

dayton+wheels+edited.JPG
 
A dedicated mechanical forum would be a great addition to this page. Lots of tricks out there to be passed along and learned. Most of my knowledge has been trial and error, Sometimes the error part either costs extra or HURTS. I figure on any paticular project I'm working on, there will be a certain amount of "Blood Letting" :? Let's get it up and going........
ALSO we need more "smiles"
 
Thank you papa bear thats where i was trying to go with this?! Thanks!And 1 more time is that Fozzy from the Muppets? I love that bear...Exp LOLlike a bastard! thats funny ive done that one lots but i didnt want it to happen.....LOTS!! But if worse comes to worse..i had to change the studs on the front..... :twisted: Timbuk oh yea exp how about that wrench spinnin forum.. :Dhttp://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg224/timbuket/1216774268.jpg
 
timbuk:
those are hub pilot wheels with different hardware than budd wheels, when the duals wont seperate it is usually corrosion/rust between the wheels, take a large drift pin,1 1/2" dia x 18+" long, and match it up with a large sledge, after loosening the lugnuts, place the pin between the nuts and drive straight in, :shock: work your way around the clock until the wheels break loose from each other and the hub. :D :D also monster torque is reqquired to hold those wheels tight, 8)

try to save the blood letting for doctors and religous cerimony :LOL:
 
Timbuk,
Yea, That's fozzy. He's probably the most accurate to my own personality. Him and Animal the drummer. To many years watching the muppets with the kids. Still better than "pro wrestling"
 
pro wrestling has nothin on the muppets at least Fozzy,Animal,and the sweedish chef are REAL.......BORK BORK BORK!Thanks for all the replies,guys ill take pictures of the surgery..hopefully its not me that needs it :LOL:
 

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