spinning those wrenches

OOOO!!!! Hub pilot wheels. You COULD try loosening the lugnuts and running some figure 8's in the parking lot. You'll still need to be ready to put studs in though. :LOL:

In all honesty I've had my best luck with those by either placing the hooked end of a tire hammer between the duals or the portapower with a wedge. With tension on the wheels I take a large shank air hammer with about a 1 inch flat round head on it and rattle between each lug. Just keep working back and forth and eventually stuff comes loose. The air hammer is also excellent for brake drums.
 
hub pilot wheels, see previous post, key words," large sledge" refers to more than 10#, this is an application where anything less than a 10# sledge with a 36" handle is just a toy.
put on your big boy panties and git er done :shock: :LOL:
 
well got it all apart wheels off drum and all until i came to the back off the brakes adjusters are siezed i whacked those things hard anyway they are a soakin lots of penetrants out there whats your fav?it seems like the one your using aint the one yer buddy likes.... :LOL: ill be on it again tomorrow im so happy the wheels came off!Only 1 side though.....the other lugs aint loosened yet!Timbuk
 
stick a torch through the access hole for the adjuster and cut the adjuster in two, new ones are gonna come in the hardware kit when you put it all back together not worth fighting with them, and anti-seize the daylights out of the new ones
 
omg torch is out of gas so i unbolted the wheel cylinders pushed then in and still no cake heated the adjusters with bunsen burner torch and still nuthin i can see the shoes-lots of meat on them......to good to be true when the wheels came off so easy.............goin at er again today for a while....project jumpin!
 
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cover removed from hub.axle just slides on out of there revealing the nuts and bearing!
 
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tough to see in this shot,the shoes are like new lots of meat the enemy here was the hands of time-sittin and doing nuthin,causing leaking cylinders
 
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couple of shots of the red green hub puller that saved the day it was the winning factor cause the drum was not coming used a couple of washers and a socket,some chain and some bolts.NO BLOOD TODAY!
 
kind of puts some meaning into the term full floating axle, the axle shaft doesn't carry any load it just supplies power.
I'd suggest that you replace the locking tab washers and also use the proper socket that fits those spindle nuts.

some of the older gm axles used a monster snapring to hold the outer bearing race in the hub, the race is installed from the back side of the hub, if you have to service/replace the outer race in an old style hub make sure to set the race and snapring in the back of the machined grooves before installing the hub back on the axle or it will allow the bearings to loosen up and pump oil out of the wheel seal.
 
ha ha i was wondering if someone would say something.Bus is jacked up with 20 ton jack with 2x6 nailed together and jack stands. you cant see them in pic.The blocks are in there for "extra moral support" or "just in case" ! oh yea you can see a jackstand in there..... :LOL: paul the shovel trick works great! timbuk
 
I just wish someone had shared lots of the labor saving tips before I used up my body, now I'm all about the lazy mans way, it's faster and easier
 
paul iossi said:
I just wish someone had shared lots of the labor saving tips before I used up my body, now I'm all about the lazy mans way, it's faster and easier
ha ha thats why i say we need a forum for this.Thanks for the posts, guys! :D Timbuk
 
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ok thats what the rear brakes on a 1965 chevy bus -c60 should look like-big thick shoes and new wheel cylinders.Even the drums looked great. when i bought this bus and was told it was all done and only went to alaska and back.i was skepticalbut when i see these brakes looking like this,im a believer!Dont let yer bus sit man,spin the grease regularely!I have spent750 on wheel cylinders and master,and 250 on lines,wheel studs and lug nuts,not including BEER!
 
looking good 8) 8

you should change the washer on the replacement shoe retainer bolt to a large diameter fender washer, make sure to leave room forthe shoes to move and retract, also don't forget the cotterpin on the original bolt or use some red locktite.

you also have to adjust each brakeshoe individually on that setup. 8) 8) :shock:
 
well after pulling off the wheel several times because the new wheel cylinders kept leaking,i finally figured out why>i replaced the cylinders and did not have to remove the shoes.This wheel leaked when i bought the bus.This wheel had signs of someone else working on it-had a newer brake line and 1 cylinder looked newer.Whoever that was must of put thedam shoes in BACKWARDS!I never had a chance!But now i know its not knowing whats wrong that kills you Timbuk
 

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