Spoke wheel conversion

Joined
Jan 11, 2017
Posts
13
Location
Kansas
Has anyone here converted front spoke wheels over to steel rims? Can it be done by finding the right hubs or is it easier to find a salvaged front axle already set up with correct hubs? 1995 international 3800
70c9684abdaa0b896a47c6a0cb937281.jpg


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
I think they can be taken down to the axle spindle and the hubs swapped out. If you can find the right ones.. Is there any particular reason that has you wanting to swap?

I'm not sure about the rears, though. Probably easiest to get a full axle.

Here's a discussion about Dayton (spoke) vs Budd wheels. Might be of interest.

Wheel types: Dayton and Budd. Pros, cons and other info

.
 
Last edited:
I have spoke wheels on my DEV bus and they give me Zero issues.. they are not split rims just spoke dayton wheels...

in my navistar service manual the spindles appear to be the same at least on the front as the ones with Budd or hib-pilot wheels.
-Christopher
 
They're not giving me problems just not sure if anyone has had issues with shops refusing to work on spoke even if they aren't split rims.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
They're not giving me problems just not sure if anyone has had issues with shops refusing to work on spoke even if they aren't split rims.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I havent had any issues.. they can see pretty quickly if they are split rims.. if a shop says theyve not heard of spoke rims i run.. because it means they would never get the rim on straight and true.. most all mobile services still service spoke rims.. lots of older trailers / dump trucks, etc still have spoke rims..
-Christopher
 
I think they can be taken down to the axle spindle and the hubs swapped out. If you can find the right ones.. Is there any particular reason that has you wanting to swap?

I'm not sure about the rears, though. Probably easiest to get a full axle.

Here's a discussion about Dayton (spoke) vs Budd wheels. Might be of interest.

Wheel types: Dayton and Budd. Pros, cons and other info

.
That article mentioned the torque for a "disk" wheels at 400 foot lbs. I just replaced my bias ply tires and split rims with tubeless radials and new disk wheels. The wheel tech torqued my wheels at 200 foot lbs.

Sent from my SM-G530W using Tapatalk
 
My Chevrolet C60 manual states
190 to 210 foot lbs for cast spoke wheels and
"Disc" wheels except Budd 300 to 400 ft lbs
"Disc" (Budd -steel) 500 - 550 ft lbs
"Disc" (Budd Aluminum) 450 - 500 ft lbs

WOW my shop was under

Sent from my SM-G530W using Tapatalk
 
I see you're running 22.5" tires, which indicates to me you have tubeless tires/rims. Shouldn't be a problem since they are *NOT* split rims. Any shop unfamiliar with them should be avoided since they likely will not know how to get 'em running true. Most competent commercial tire shops will know what to do and how to do it.
 
as mentioned before, conversion to the other wheels simply requires hub change, and there are plenty of them in the truck wrecking yards n should be cheap.
of course u need the wheels also, besides the hubs, nuts, etc so get all the jun u nee at one time, n spare wheel as well.
daytons or what we call "california wheels" since my youth as dad had trucking company, are quite easy to change but they kinda need to go on the hubs correctly. my second bus conversion had them, and i drove all over the usa with them, and wheel changes were easy.. easier than the thomas re i have now.
 
lots of good advice having 20 years exp with budd , pilot mount and dayton/spoke wheels budd uses a double nut which were a pain when the inner came loose with the outer nut the newer pilot/hub mount went back to the old ones of 1 nut for both but had such close tolerance in the center hole they can be a real issue to get off (if you have yours off use neversieze on the center hole) so i was happy to have my daytons i can change them easy and since they use a wedge they use less torque and as stated get them straight (aligned) spoke wheels allow more air movement around brakes for better cooling as far as torque go by your book never trust someones memory as if it comes off (and they do ) you will crash not them AND RECHECK TORQUE AGAIN 1-200 MILES LATER
 
My Disc wheels use a single nut. They were not hard to remove. I will use anti seize on the hub when I do the brakes. I will also purchase a torque wrench and re-torque the nuts.

Sent from my SM-G530W using Tapatalk
 
how do you retorque the rears. where the recess is so deep.. is there a brace you can lean your torque wrench acrossto be able to lean on it hard?
-Christopher
 
how do you retorque the rears. where the recess is so deep.. is there a brace you can lean your torque wrench acrossto be able to lean on it hard?
-Christopher
I don't know, never had to torque a set of duals. Open to learning.

Sent from my SM-G530W using Tapatalk
 
You can use extensions and adapters with torque wrenches adapters that mpve the center away just use the torque formula to get it right
 
Usually the "torque stick" on impact wrenches isn't there to tighten to a certain specification, but to limit how tight a gun torques the fasteners. For this reason, shops are supposed to use an actual torque wrench for final tightening.
 

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top