Still working on the name Conversion

Jrcorkerin

Advanced Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2017
Posts
76
Location
McCalla, Alabama
Step one : buy a bus and bring it home. [emoji736]

Step two: Piss wife off by parking an old school bus in the yard. [emoji736][emoji736][emoji736]

Gotta start somewhere right?

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Step three: remove the seats. I figured there were nuts on the underside but I thought I'd put an impact driver on the top side and give a few a spin to see what happened. Out of six one came right out. Guess I'll either have to wait until I can get some help getting the bolts out or start grinding off the bolt heads from the top side.

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Vise Grips

Doing solo work without super long arms is tough. Wire brush threads, first to get big stuff off. Soak w/ PB Blaster/Kroil and let sit for a day.

Use a REAL set (or 4) of Vise Grips and lock it on the nut underneath to keep from spinning. Go back inside and impact bolt. Wash, Rinse Repeat. Stop when you get dizzy.

I just got off ~40 comfortable fasteners from underside today, no breakage.

The problem with your bus is it is...yellow. Once you paint it something more subdued, wifey will complain less. IF she still gives you a hard time, say you will sell it and get a crotch rocket instead. :eek:

Put the guard on that angle grinder- those wheels will explode at 3,000 - 11,000-RPM and it isn't pretty. Only use high-quality wheels, replace if cracked or chipped. Take your time.
 
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Doing solo work without super long arms is tough. Wire brush threads, first to get big stuff off. Soak w/ PB Blaster/Kroil and let sit for a day.

Use a REAL set (or 4) of Vise Grips and lock it on the nut underneath to keep from spinning. Go back inside and impact bolt. Wash, Rinse Repeat. Stop when you get dizzy.

I just got off ~40 comfortable fasteners from underside today, no breakage.

The problem with your bus is it is...yellow. Once you paint it something more subdued, wifey will complain less. IF she still gives you a hard time, say you will sell it and get a crotch rocket instead. :eek:

Put the guard on that angle grinder- those wheels will explode at 3,000 - 11,000-RPM and it isn't pretty. Only use high-quality wheels, replace if cracked or chipped. Take your time.



Thanks for the tip! I went ahead and cut the tops off all the isle bolts and they are all loose. Took 3 1/2 Home Depot "Diablo" 4 1/2" cutoff wheels. Now for the wall bolts. It appears that I'll have to remove the seat bottoms to get to them. [emoji30]. Oh well let's get started. I know I know. You should always use a guard. [emoji56]. They just always seem to get in the way!


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Seats are out BABY! Not bad for a late start on her first day home. Think I'm going to pull the luggage racks out before I call it a night. Then tomorrow I'll see how much joy I can find in drilling out rivets!! [emoji848]
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Ok removing rivets is almost as fun as removing the seats was. Working on the wall panels first after pulling some windows and the top corner pieces that were screwed in. The smaller rivets come out quick with a drill bit but the bigger one at the ribs just spin when I try to drill em. Right now I'm using a crowbar and a small sledge hammer to remove those unless someone has an easier way. They pop off pretty quick with a few good blows. And I do mean pop. They go flying and they sting when they hit you. Eye protection is a must!
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I discovered after a few more that once I tap the claw under the head of the rivet I can give it a little pry and they pull right out like pulling a nail but easier. A lot less pounding and no flying rivet bullets.


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Another discovery (for me anyway). I found that if I take a punch/nail set and tap it into the center hole they come out a lot easier and cleaner with the crowbar.

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Doing solo work without super long arms is tough. Wire brush threads, first to get big stuff off. Soak w/ PB Blaster/Kroil and let sit for a day.

Use a REAL set (or 4) of Vise Grips and lock it on the nut underneath to keep from spinning. Go back inside and impact bolt. Wash, Rinse Repeat. Stop when you get dizzy.

I just got off ~40 comfortable fasteners from underside today, no breakage.

The problem with your bus is it is...yellow. Once you paint it something more subdued, wifey will complain less. IF she still gives you a hard time, say you will sell it and get a crotch rocket instead. :eek:

Put the guard on that angle grinder- those wheels will explode at 3,000 - 11,000-RPM and it isn't pretty. Only use high-quality wheels, replace if cracked or chipped. Take your time.
Guard is a definite as well as glasses and gloves and keep all family members away. If it's a buddy? Make him wear at least pants, shoes and glasses.
Your grinding/wheels whether cheap or expensive?
Should be rated for your grinder RPM or better!
For a true life example.
My company bought all the welder's new 4-1/2" grinders that were rated for 6000 rpm but the grinding cutting wheels they had been purchasing were only rated for 4900 rpm's.
No one paid attention other than the wheels running out quicker cause working on the federal construction the safety is better than OSHA.but any way.
our muck wasn't noticed until we needed a concrete grinding stone to clean up the edges on a pump pad that we had poured.
No problem I'll have you one there before you need it? Not something we normally use so I ran to a big box store and got it.
I thought at that time that if it fit it a grinder that it worked for a/my grinder?
The grinding cup was only rated for 2500 RPM and put on a 6000 RPM grinder?
One of my men were using it and it started off good for what it was but the second I walked away it exploded on him? Part of it went through both sides of two Sheetrock at 5' apart and the grinder was four 4' away from the first wall and the man that was holding it had to have several pieces of stone dug out of his leg. This was my first experience with matching grinding/cutting wheels to the grinder they are going on and using them properly.
A cutting wheel on a grinder is only made to cut into metal vertically and yes you can go kinda horizontal with it but get a lot of kickback? Better hang on and use your side handle with gloves cause in that position you have taken that cutting blade out of its comfort zone and it's going to let you know!
A grinding wheel is not made for cutting? It can do the job a lot safer than a cutting wheel.
It also requires safety glasses and gloves at a minimum.
At a minimum for each tool you buy?
READ AND FOLLOW YOUR TOOL MANUFACTURERS INSTRUCTIONS. They give you knowledge you think you already know but each(especially these days) tools are different.
Sorry.
Guess I caught this one at the wrong time for me safety wise.
If a cutting wheel on a grinder is binding on/in it is because you have changed the position you started in? It is Not the grinder or the wheel?
All cutting wheels are flat and require you to use the backing and tightening nuts provided .
If you look at a grinding wheel it is cupped around the fastening nuts?
So you can grind instead of cut?
There is a design around every tool.
Learn the tool before you grab ahold of.
If your grinding /cutting wheels are binding whether cutting or grinding?
Your doing it wrong?
Tools are made to do a specific job!
You are only there to support those tools to do there job.
You have to understand there purpose and use them accordingly.
 

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