I want to forewarn anyone that's going to put in insulation on your subfloor ... Ouch I already hit my head just watching the video
buy a bus with 6'8" ceilingsYour being the key word. If you actually watched my videos I already said that I will be using a stool. Being 6'4" without shoes I am screwed no matter what.
Thanks for watching though.
buy a bus with 6'8" ceilings
So that I can walk (only down the center) in a 200sqft area that has even less actual floor space? In a bus that probably isn't what we were exactly looking for.
Hey while I'm at it why insulate at all? Should have just kept the nasty rubber floor thrown plywood over it. Left the walls and ceiling as is because the insulation that they use in buses is such high quality right??
So now that I have saved money, live in a uncomfortable space that is not efficient for heating or cooling, and can hear everything outside while I'm sleeping. But can walk down the center aisle with limited headroom. Just is not what I wanted in a skoolie.
The whole point is to build it how your going to use it, right?
So is there a roof raise in your future?
yes , only down the center, most fill the sides of the bus up will the kitchen and bath and shower and sitting area. are you planing on building everything in the middle and walking down the sides of the bus?So that I can walk (only down the center) in a 200sqft area that has even less actual floor space? In a bus that probably isn't what we were exactly looking for.
Hey while I'm at it why insulate at all? Should have just kept the nasty rubber floor thrown plywood over it. Left the walls and ceiling as is because the insulation that they use in buses is such high quality right??
So now that I have saved money, live in a uncomfortable space that is not efficient for heating or cooling, and can hear everything outside while I'm sleeping. But can walk down the center aisle with limited headroom. Just is not what I wanted in a skoolie.
The whole point is to build it how your going to use it, right?
yes , only down the center, most fill the sides of the bus up will the kitchen and bath and shower and sitting area. are you planing on building everything in the middle and walking down the sides of the bus?
While we are on this flooring topic...
Is it possible to use radiant barrier type goodies Radiant Technology Composites |
THEN put plywood down rather than putting in foam boards? Would it still be the same effect Rvalue wise?
I used pennies with silicone. Low cost and did the trickNow that I've faced reality and tore up the plywood to start from the steal base, I'm wondering about sealing the holes in the floor. Would it be helpful to actually leave holes in the steal for better ventilation for your red rosin paper(or vapor barrier) and plywood? Why seal the holes at all?
turtle
So am I securing my plywood subfloor to the original metal factory floor with screws that go all the way through the floor?
How do I prevent moisture from creeping in on the screws and through the screw holes?
I’m concerned that any moisture could consolidate under the ply, rotting it out or causing more rust at each screw.
A lot of people have done the screws-through-the-metal-floor thing and nobody has ever reported water damage coming from underneath. The tip of the screw will passivate (i.e. surface rust a little bit), but this causes it to swell and seal the opening completely. In a standard school bus (like an International), the chair rail side beam is attached to the floor with sheet metal screws that go through the floor exactly like this, and this does not allow water inside from underneath.
If you were especially concerned, you could nip off the tips of the screws on the underside and glop a bit of polyurethane sealant on them (at least in the areas you could reach), but this really wouldn't be necessary. Many people also just glue down their subfloors and this seems to work fine as well.
On my bus, I welded wood screws to the steel floor and spun 2" pieces of dowel rod onto them through matching holes in my foam board insulation and then screwed my plywood flooring into the dowels from above. This gave a solid mechanical connection between the plywood and the steel floor without putting any holes in the steel, but this was a fair amount of extra work and not really necessary (in my case it was more to strengthen the steel floor which had suffered some serious corrosion).
Thank you very much!!!
Now what type of screws should I use? I’m assuming 2 and 3 inch self tappers? Does it matter if it’s a flat head? Iv found several types with varying prices.
Thank you again!!