raulaleman84
Senior Member
my god man! Some of the projects people here do are just amazing to watch.
Thank you for sharing!
Thank you for sharing!
~~ Succubus ~~ 2003 Bluebird 40' Talltop STFE 4800
Onan 10Kw Quiet Diesel woes
It was time to turn my attention to the diesel generator. It has an Onan sound enclosure and another sound enclosure from the Coachbuilder so it is challenging to service.
It was flashing 3 times, meant error code.
Code 45: Speed Sense Lost.
It means the controller is unable to read the frequency output of the stator, or the controller can not process it.
Well, that's not good. Turns out you need to get multimeter on some contacts to see if it is problem with stator $$$ or computer $$$. I did the tests and Ohms came out high. Couple slightly burnt contacts cleaned-up.
I took apart the entire cabinet to get to the air intake box, where the computer lives. Looked good to me, no crispy bits.
I took apart the brush and cleaned all the contacts w used 220 sandpaper. Cleaned it up and tightened the spade connectors. Ohms within specs now.
Picture of dirty contacts- yuck.
This thing has a bunch of air flow ducting to quiet intake and cool across the computer. another duct to pull cool air thru the genhead. None of these were easy to get to or reattach properly, but I took the extra hours to ensure they all went where they were supposed to. Field service manual helps
Cleaned-up power connections
Once buttoned, up, I bumped the starter and it jumped ! I poured some fuel in the line and she primed and ran for few minutes. I was happy. For awhile....
It was time to turn my attention to the diesel generator. It has an Onan sound enclosure and another sound enclosure from the Coachbuilder so it is challenging to service.
It was flashing 3 times, meant error code.
Code 45: Speed Sense Lost.
It means the controller is unable to read the frequency output of the stator, or the controller can not process it.
Well, that's not good. Turns out you need to get multimeter on some contacts to see if it is problem with stator $$$ or computer $$$. I did the tests and Ohms came out high. Couple slightly burnt contacts cleaned-up.
I took apart the entire cabinet to get to the air intake box, where the computer lives. Looked good to me, no crispy bits.
I took apart the brush and cleaned all the contacts w used 220 sandpaper. Cleaned it up and tightened the spade connectors. Ohms within specs now.
Picture of dirty contacts- yuck.
This thing has a bunch of air flow ducting to quiet intake and cool across the computer. another duct to pull cool air thru the genhead. None of these were easy to get to or reattach properly, but I took the extra hours to ensure they all went where they were supposed to. Field service manual helps
Cleaned-up power connections
Once buttoned, up, I bumped the starter and it jumped ! I poured some fuel in the line and she primed and ran for few minutes. I was happy. For awhile....
cadillackid
Senior Member
Nicely done on the Genny!!! i love to see when people fix their own electronic bits.. heck, who knows that mightve been the whole reason they decided to retire the bus. you going to keep the Genny as part of your build?
-Christopher
-Christopher
Thanks ! Yes it stays, genny is larger than I need, but already installed.
The Library retired all 3 of their Bookmobiles due to loss of funds for drivers. I don't know where mine's 2 shorter siblings went.
Legal now
Time for updates...
I have to fit this project in with my other 19 projects....
Important victories: I got RV plates and Title (Motorhome), so that is big. I got Progressive insurance RV for $125/yr liability only but high limits, so that's good.
I did come across this... #3
But mine was never any of those type busses and was built by commercial coachbuilder.
Time for updates...
I have to fit this project in with my other 19 projects....
Important victories: I got RV plates and Title (Motorhome), so that is big. I got Progressive insurance RV for $125/yr liability only but high limits, so that's good.
I did come across this... #3
But mine was never any of those type busses and was built by commercial coachbuilder.
Exhaust
Old exhaust had a few bad band clamps, small hole in muffler so I decided to upgrade to something that flows free and sounds good.
After much research, I went with 51" long 5" in/out Donaldson muffler. I got it from Ryder Fleet - highly recommend as they have EVERYTHING and are next day Fedex.
W26 M090544 Muffler 101.56(ea)
I also got a bunch of SS clamps and adapters for another $100.
I had one of these laying around, so I tried it...not such a good match, maybe as a resonator. I have Aero on wife's 5.9L Grand Cherokee and love it, just not on RV.
I got 10' stick of Heavy Duty SS 5" tubing at O'Rielly- $87 because Ryder would have taken longer as is freight item. sucker weighs 32 lbs. It's not the 'good' stainless, but it will long outlast thin steel tubing.
IT all went together nicely, only had to weld one joint. I increased the diameter from 4" to 5" up closer to the turbo, so it's large marge all the way back. All the expensive curved pieces over axle were thicker aluminized and are fine.
I did find another design flaw I improved upon- they had the over-axle tubing resting on the axle, so axle rises, tubing moves, flexes joints. Even w/ flex connections, rubbing is a no-no, so I re-hung that properly. It seems every issue I have found and repaired required re-engineered solution, or maybe it's just I hate to re-do any job.
Sounds REAL good now. I was careful to choose muffler to eliminate drone.
Old exhaust had a few bad band clamps, small hole in muffler so I decided to upgrade to something that flows free and sounds good.
After much research, I went with 51" long 5" in/out Donaldson muffler. I got it from Ryder Fleet - highly recommend as they have EVERYTHING and are next day Fedex.
W26 M090544 Muffler 101.56(ea)
I also got a bunch of SS clamps and adapters for another $100.
I had one of these laying around, so I tried it...not such a good match, maybe as a resonator. I have Aero on wife's 5.9L Grand Cherokee and love it, just not on RV.
I got 10' stick of Heavy Duty SS 5" tubing at O'Rielly- $87 because Ryder would have taken longer as is freight item. sucker weighs 32 lbs. It's not the 'good' stainless, but it will long outlast thin steel tubing.
IT all went together nicely, only had to weld one joint. I increased the diameter from 4" to 5" up closer to the turbo, so it's large marge all the way back. All the expensive curved pieces over axle were thicker aluminized and are fine.
I did find another design flaw I improved upon- they had the over-axle tubing resting on the axle, so axle rises, tubing moves, flexes joints. Even w/ flex connections, rubbing is a no-no, so I re-hung that properly. It seems every issue I have found and repaired required re-engineered solution, or maybe it's just I hate to re-do any job.
Sounds REAL good now. I was careful to choose muffler to eliminate drone.
Now it's legal AND quiet
So, now that I am fully legit, I had to take it for a real spin. I've had this bus since January and only driven around the block!
I got it out on I-57 and it cruises 70mph no problem@ 2300 RPM. Drives straight, stops quick and stayed cool. All the juices stayed where they were supposed to.
I took it to a Pilot to fill-up, what a cluster that place was- new computer systems today w/ zero training.
Got her weighed and she is a little heavier than I thought. Where have I said that before....
That's with nothing inside, full tank of fuel and generator onboard.
Bus has plenty of top-speed, slow off the line, but will climb hills fine.
Only hiccup was fuel sender that I cleaned and reused isn't sending....damn. Only spot i cheaped-out.
So, now that I am fully legit, I had to take it for a real spin. I've had this bus since January and only driven around the block!
I got it out on I-57 and it cruises 70mph no problem@ 2300 RPM. Drives straight, stops quick and stayed cool. All the juices stayed where they were supposed to.
I took it to a Pilot to fill-up, what a cluster that place was- new computer systems today w/ zero training.
Got her weighed and she is a little heavier than I thought. Where have I said that before....
That's with nothing inside, full tank of fuel and generator onboard.
Bus has plenty of top-speed, slow off the line, but will climb hills fine.
Only hiccup was fuel sender that I cleaned and reused isn't sending....damn. Only spot i cheaped-out.
Painted my rims so I can pretend I have Alcoa's now...
Serpentine belt was dry, bought a new one for $40, save the old for emergency. Gates 8PK1742 K080685
New upper radiator hose, old one was suspect due to age. Napa 7372 $20.
Serpentine belt was dry, bought a new one for $40, save the old for emergency. Gates 8PK1742 K080685
New upper radiator hose, old one was suspect due to age. Napa 7372 $20.
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Lighter than me. Well, I had two souls onboard. Fuel tank wasn't full tho. Stripped of seats (except 3) and plywood. I was 20,620 I think.
You've got 5 more feet of bus and the 8.3L engine (no, I am not jealous
) , but I have that 10K Onan genny that weights a bit.I wish I could weigh each corner, but I know I have to put the weight opposite the genny for side-to-side balance.
raulaleman84
Senior Member
inside pictures
hey rusty, any new pics of the inside?
hey rusty, any new pics of the inside?
My interior is based on a Deconstructed Industrialist design, you may have seen similar work in Architectural Digest.
Have been focusing on mechanicals. Bus is project #55 on my to-do list as is personal vehicle. I have been "thinning the heard".
Weather is AMAZING now (rare), so I am painting exterior this week- priming today. Paint is fine, no rust, but bugs the **** out of everyone else " When are you going to paint it???? " Pffft.
Delete Bonus Door
Was ALL geeked-up to paint this monstrosity when I realized I should finish body work.
There are around 200 rivets holding this door on. The assembler must have been paid by-the-rivet vs hourly wage. They are 1" apart on the bottom frame. I got all but 6 out, leaving those to seal the hole until I get steel. Took about 3 hours. Was glad I got the 60 gal 5 HP air compressor decades ago.
Gotta scrounge a few sheets of 16 Ga to button this giant hole in the wall up. I'll cut some windows in later. I did treat myself to a little scaffold so I don't have to do tricks on the A-Frame ladder. Should have bought this 20 years ago. Was $170 at Home Depot, add to the tally....
My helper was quite unimpressed with the loudness of rivet removal, but not enough to go inside. Go figure.
*LOUD*
Was ALL geeked-up to paint this monstrosity when I realized I should finish body work.
There are around 200 rivets holding this door on. The assembler must have been paid by-the-rivet vs hourly wage. They are 1" apart on the bottom frame. I got all but 6 out, leaving those to seal the hole until I get steel. Took about 3 hours. Was glad I got the 60 gal 5 HP air compressor decades ago.
Gotta scrounge a few sheets of 16 Ga to button this giant hole in the wall up. I'll cut some windows in later. I did treat myself to a little scaffold so I don't have to do tricks on the A-Frame ladder. Should have bought this 20 years ago. Was $170 at Home Depot, add to the tally....
My helper was quite unimpressed with the loudness of rivet removal, but not enough to go inside. Go figure.
*LOUD*
raulaleman84
Senior Member
Rusty showing off his skills and his biceps !!!
Noob question, is that hole under the door the one that you have to fix? Why removing the rivets?
Are going to replace that whole lower panel vs just putting a patch over the hole?
Thanks for sharing!
Sent from my Life One X using Tapatalk
Noob question, is that hole under the door the one that you have to fix? Why removing the rivets?
Are going to replace that whole lower panel vs just putting a patch over the hole?
Thanks for sharing!
Sent from my Life One X using Tapatalk
Rusty showing off his skills and his biceps !!!
Noob question, is that hole under the door the one that you have to fix? Why removing the rivets?
Are going to replace that whole lower panel vs just putting a patch over the hole?
Thanks for sharing!
Bus has ZERO body rust, luckily. The panel under the door is a good example of why you need to scuff /clean the paint before applying another coat. Coachbuilder OBS didn't prep just that one panel well and the paint came-off in sheets with a putty knife.
I am removing all the rivets to seal-off the wheelchair lift door as that is where my kitchen is going and those big doors don't seal very well. I'll rivet new panels in place, replace cut section of chair rail for strength and sprayfoam void.
Got my scaffold from Home Depot ,$170. Check Craigslist as people hate storing those.
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