BlackJohn
Senior Member
Sounds like a bowthruster might do the trick easier. No more crosswind problems.
John
John
We raised my bus 24". I wanted at least a 12" raise, to account for 2-3 inches of spray foam & wood in the ceiling and floor, plus some headroom for the tall people in my family. My dad convinced me to go the full 24" so there wouldn't be any waste in the sheet metal.
We are also going to raise the floor 12" and put the 200 gal fresh water tanks and 100 gal grey tanks in the floor storage ("floorage") so it won't freeze.
There are several posts that mentioned raising the roof on a Thomas bus is challenging because the sides are canted about 6 deg. Did you have any issues or is this a myth?
Its not a myth. They're sloped 6 degrees inward from the top rub rail up.
It adds a little complexity but can be done. Making it look good is the tricky part. Easiest to cut below the window line.
There are several posts that mentioned raising the roof on a Thomas bus is challenging because the sides are canted about 6 deg. Did you have any issues or is this a myth?
It was a bit more challenging, but with the help of my mech. engineer brother-in-law, we figured it out. We could have cut below the windows, and that would probably have been a lot easier. I don't remember why we decided against that (it was back in the springtime), but we cut just below the roof, to minimize the slope. We welded in a 1x2 steel tube to the hat channels. We also bolted the tube at the top and bottom as a backup to the welds. To the tube, we welded 1x1 angle iron that we pre-drilled for the rivets. This pretty much mimics the hat channel shape. We didn't add the flanges to the areas that will be cut out for RV Windows.
I was looking at "The Bus Life" roof raise on YouTube which they raised theirs 14" and I did not see anything that caused an issue.![]()
Yes, their roof raise is what inspired me to do mine. He made it looks pretty easy.I think they may be different in style because his is a rear engine, and mine is a front engine.