Have you checked if there's a spare threaded port in the top of your diesel tank? I had an unused 1/2" port in the top of mine, so I made a dip tube from some 3/8" OD stainless tube soldered (yes, you can solder stainless steel) into a 3/8" FPT brass fitting, then the 3/8" fuel line from there goes to a pair of Amerine gear pumps that push fuel to each heater's 10L day tank. I have a momentary-On toggle switch by each day tank that actuates a relay to send power to the gear pump: it takes me only a few seconds to fill up a day tank. Easy!
Just bear in mind that the heater's metering (impulse) pump doesn't suck fuel as well as pushing it, so put the pump closer to the tank than the heater itself. The supplied fuel filters are junk, so buy a cheap small-engine filter instead and put that immediately before the metering pump. Do NOT use anything except the correct 2mm ID fuel supply tube between the pump and the heater - some heaters have god-awful green tube that's too large and will crack and leak eventually. The pump MUST be pointing slightly up (between 20 and 35 degrees up works well) to help cavitation bubbles leave the pump.
Most problems with these heaters are caused by poor installations, but some of the cheapest heaters are more prone to carbon build-up than others, which can only be solved by reprograming the fuel/air ratios a bit leaner (or a lot leaner if you use them at higher elevations!). Like diesel engines, these heaters are not stoichiometric, so more air is always better than insufficient air, even at sea level. However, don't have the fan run faster than 4500 RPM, or the bearings will die sooner.
John