THINK!! before removing your factory A/C!

[cadillackid]

I have a cylinder 30lbs. I am open to barter. I have converted to a drop in refrigerant in me r12 systems.

William

thats what I did, converted to a drop-in for both my 12 and 134a systems and they are colder / run with lower head pressure

 

[Corbi]

Newbe to a.c.

I have a 99 GMC Savana with front and rear a.c. I know the condenser clutch is not engaging. The seller said there was a leak in the system. Would recovering the refrigerant be a first step to find leaks? How would you get started with a repair? Thanks!

 

[cadillackid]

I have a 99 GMC Savana with front and rear a.c. I know the condenser clutch is not engaging. The seller said there was a leak in the system. Would recovering the refrigerant be a first step to find leaks? How would you get started with a repair? Thanks!

the most likely scenerio is the compressor isnt engaging because the freon has leaked out..



here is hpw I leak test.. first I do a visual.. the condensor is the coil in front of the radiator, the compressor is the pump with the clutch... the evaporators are the inside units.. one inside the dashboard and one usually in the rear ceiling or rear wall.


if the system recently worked.. then you have a good shot at seeing Oil spots where the leak is.. esp if it leaks out fast. I look for clusters of dust, pollen etc on the condensor.. often indicating part of it was more greasy (sticky) than the rest.. I also check for CHaffed hoses and oil spots near where the pipes fit together.. hoses can run against the frame, sometimes a broken belt previously will gouge a hose.. a Van is trickier because you have rear things tp check..



thre fittings on the system are O-rings.. and so you can visually look for leaks around where the pipes fit together... round the compressor pulley is anotherp lace to look for oil residue..



if nothing is obvious..
then I'll vacuum the system down with a vacuum pump the best I can and charge it to 150 PSI of nitrogen, if its a bad leak you'll hear it hissing someplace... if I dont hear it then ill go out with my electronic leak detector.. and see if I can find the vicinity with that.. ie the hose connections / TxV at the rear evaporator.. if I narrow it to an area ill do more look listen and feel... oily residues, etc.. ill often try something simple if my tester comes positive in an area.. like replace the O-rings..



vacuum and charge with Nitrogen again.. if the nitrogen charge holds overnight 100% then I vacuum and charge with refrigerant.. since the system had a repair made ill almost always charge in some Tracer DYE so if it is still leaking ill be able to see the tracer dye with a UV light...







if I dont find anything at all and my nitrogen holds or only bleeds off a little over night then ill vac, install tracer dye and charge with refrigerant.. and ill run it.. some leaks are so slow they are hard to catch.. so you put dye in and recharge the systenm and use it.. if the cooling starts to get weak then you use a UV light and go out in the dark and look for signs of that dye anywhere ..

 

[KeyWestPirate]

Great idea on the nitrogen. Never thought of that.

Is there a pex like solution available? Crimp on your own fittings? I use pex for propane too, red, blue, yellow.

It's not approved for propane but I've noticed that a lot of underground natural gas l gas lines are plastic and operate at a much higher than the propane lines

 

[cadillackid]

no pex that I know of.. I use Burgaflex / Burgaclip fittings which are similar to a pex style crimp ring but on a hose like good year 4860 or 4890.. (reduced diameter barrier hose)..


I also have the crimper set for standard fittings too.. the tools and fittings are available..



there are different solutions out there.. burgaclip is just one of several..



Nitrogen is standard practice in HVAC for leaking testing and also pressure testing for new installs..



sucking down to vacuum is a first step.. if a system wont hold vacuum you know its got a pretty big leak.. no reason to waste freon or nitrogen at that point. but I'll still test with nitrogen on a new install after evacuating it..



on a leaking system if its empty ill punch nitrogen in first to look for major leak points..



most leaks are pretty easy to spot.. the slow ones are the hardest.. (ie where the system runs for a season just fine but next spring isnt cooling right)...


thing to remember is the freon goes around in circles.. it is not Consumed during the cooling process.. its just pumped round and round.. so if it is going away then its leaking out.. ive seen A/C's 30 years old that have never been cracked open...

 

[buslivesmatter]

I took my bus to a mechanic. The A/C compressor is shot and the costs to fix it is the same cost as a mini split. I think I’m simply going to remove it and install a maxx air fan and mini split.

 

[cadillackid]

I took my bus to a mechanic. The A/C compressor is shot and the costs to fix it is the same cost as a mini split. I think I’m simply going to remove it and install a maxx air fan and mini split.

I'd do both... take the rear A/C out, install a minisplit for when you are parked.. then replace the A/C compressor yourself and run the dashboard air.. your minisplit in the back of the bus isnt going to do anything for you in the driver seat next to that doghouse...

 

[buslivesmatter]

I have no idea how to fix the a/c compressor for an affordable price. If I knew how to do that on a 2006 Chevy shorty I’d definitely consider it.

 

[buslivesmatter]

I'd do both... take the rear A/C out, install a minisplit for when you are parked.. then replace the A/C compressor yourself and run the dashboard air.. your minisplit in the back of the bus isnt going to do anything for you in the driver seat next to that doghouse...

I have no idea how to fix the a/c compressor for an affordable price. If I knew how to do that on a 2006 Chevy shorty I’d definitely consider it.

 

[ChurchBuz]

Cadillackid: I am working with a friend of mine to save half the AC in my bus as you recommend.

He will be joining the group specifically to get help.

Not sure what name he will join using, but his regular name is Jeff.

I dropped your screen name as super helpful.

He has questions that hopefully you can help with.

Thanks so much for your contributions to this group!

 

[theshortbuswhocould]

I just bought my 1994 Ford E350 shuttle bus, and it has a heater and a/c unit already equipped (and in pretty prime locations). Is there anyway to make it so those units can run without the bus being on? I would love to be able to utilize them but I can’t figure out how to figure out this problem.

 

[B1GF00T.III]

Working on a 91 blue bird AC

So I need some help here.
I’m working on a 91 blue bird
Two compressors one on top of the block one ( looks like it was converted to 134–A with quick connect fittings) the compressor on the bottom has regular R-12 fittings
Two evaporators but I have only found one condenser. Is there 2 circuits one evaporator.
I’m looking for a wiring diagram
Refrigeration circuit diagram
Need to jump out the low pressure switch to test compressors
Which compressor does the drivers side which compressor does the non drivers side?

 

[magnakansas]

bigfoot

two compressors, two condensers.

william

 

[cadillackid]

two compressors, two condensers.

william

there are some **WIERD** bus A/C systems out there that used one Large condenser, 2 compressors and 2 evaporators.. they defy every law of science i ever knew in the world of air conditioning but they blow cold...



also there were dual circuit condensers made.. they were Large units..



and theres also the possibility someone removed a condenser and never replaced it.


without Pics of the piping and the condensor thats on the bus its hard to say what they did..

 

[B1GF00T.III]

Condenser pics

file:///var/mobile/Library/SMS/Attachments/bc/12/71B788D2-CB46-42D1-B671-34C18C265F4F/IMG_1276.HEIC

 

[B1GF00T.III]

Cond pics

Teed connection closest to drivers side

 

[B1GF00T.III]

Second pic of cond

Tee’d connection closest to back door
It’s the same pic sorry redoing now
Jeff

 

[B1GF00T.III]

Teed connection condenser

Sorry about that this is the 2nd set of tee’d lines . I get it could be multiple circuits one condenser . Is one line set a bypass line to a Solenoid / bypass valve?

 

[B1GF00T.III]

Btw I’m Jeff Cadillackid nice to meet you I will have a few more questions

 

[cadillackid]

Btw I’m Jeff Cadillackid nice to meet you I will have a few more questions

Yep this is one of those single condensor setups, its possible theres check valves in the compressor or in the T fitting, otherwise they count on both compressors always running.. ive seen them both ways..



theoretically you can oil starve one compressor if both arent running .. this is also why only one set of fittings has been converted.. you are filling both compressors and evaporators and you charge through the one set of ports. ..


removing one set should be very possible... you will leave the condensor.. and can remove one evaporator, its lines, and compressor and the T fittings from the condensor..



-Christopher