Thomas Followed Me Home Today

Tachometer mystery .... solved!

The laser tachometer arrived today and I was able to get accurate figures from the crankshaft pulley.

Idle ... 650 rather than 950
Fast Idle ... 855 rather than 1175

950 actual was 1350 tacho
1570 actual was 2150 tacho
1890 actual was 2575 tacho

Computed ... Indicated 3100 was actually 2275 @ 70 mph

All of that confirms that the FD ratio is 5.38, as the factory said.

Unlocking 6th would give a top speed of 80 mph, so I can see little reason for Thomas to say No.
 
Tachometer mystery .... solved!

The laser tachometer arrived today and I was able to get accurate figures from the crankshaft pulley.

Idle ... 650 rather than 950
Fast Idle ... 855 rather than 1175

950 actual was 1350 tacho
1570 actual was 2150 tacho
1890 actual was 2575 tacho

Computed ... Indicated 3100 was actually 2275 @ 70 mph

All of that confirms that the FD ratio is 5.38, as the factory said.

Unlocking 6th would give a top speed of 80 mph, so I can see little reason for Thomas to say No.

I knew this was the case!
Told ya so! :tongue:
 
Ok, what laser tach did you get?
And how did you use it to get it readings going down the road?
Did it just log the data for retrieved or was it a live feed thing?
All mechanical here and No way to add a Tach to my alternator without gutting it to add my own wire?
 
Ok, what laser tach did you get?
And how did you use it to get it readings going down the road?
Did it just log the data for retrieved or was it a live feed thing?
All mechanical here and No way to add a Tach to my alternator without gutting it to add my own wire?

This Tach:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071KC19H2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Attached reflective material to crank pulley, pointed the laser at it, had daughter hold revs on rev counter and compared readings.

Actual revs on digital laser were bang on with an FD of 5.38.

I already had the actual speed at the displayed revs on the bus tacho from a previous road trip.

After that the calculation was easy.
 
Tacho calibration ... Fixed.

There is a turn knob on the back of the tacho that sets # of cylinders. It was set to "6", but seemed to be between settings.

A bit of fiddling with a screwdriver and the tacho is now only 50 rpm off.

I pulled the plastic dash surround and I don't think it's going back on. It can be driven as it is and I'll eventually build a wooden surround with handy things like somewhere to put stuff :D

Also, the reason some of the dials were not lighting up is that the bulbs and holders are missing ... an easy fix.

I can't get the seats out on my own, well not easily, but that will be addressed tomorrow. Help is on its way.
 
Tacho calibration ... Fixed.

There is a turn knob on the back of the tacho that sets # of cylinders. It was set to "6", but seemed to be between settings.

A bit of fiddling with a screwdriver and the tacho is now only 50 rpm off.

I pulled the plastic dash surround and I don't think it's going back on. It can be driven as it is and I'll eventually build a wooden surround with handy things like somewhere to put stuff :D

Also, the reason some of the dials were not lighting up is that the bulbs and holders are missing ... an easy fix.

I can't get the seats out on my own, well not easily, but that will be addressed tomorrow. Help is on its way.

Yep, I'm getting up at 0400. I'm planning on being on the road about 0430 or so. E.T.A. between 0900 and 1000 hours.

I have all my impact tools, grinders, extension cords, and a bunch of hand tools ready for the job.

All I'll need are power outlets to plug into.

I'm so looking forward to seeing your bus!

M :biggrin:
 
Brent visited today and in 4 1/2 hours we went from this:

DSCN0891.jpg

To this:

P1020275.jpg

Thanks Brent:

P1020273.jpg
 
Job well done. It's one of the first milestones, of many.

It's nice to finally see what we have. I'll grind out the remaining seat-post bases and clean up some before tackling the floor.

The floor looks extremely well put in and won't want to come up easily. It is, however, screwed down, not nailed.
 
You're going to find that those screws often don't act like screws if they're rusty at all.

After you forcibly remove the plywood, the remaining broken off screws can usually be driven through the subfloor using a hammer. There's always a few that require a grinder.

One job just bleeds into the next job. Seat removal leads to subfloor reperations leading to rust treatment and so on.

These are good projects to keep us busy and out of trouble.
 
super cool on getting your tach right!! i figured that was the issue as opposed to your engine spinning super fast.. same issue as i had with my 1990 navistar, the switch was set wrong. good stuff.. Thomas will probably say no if it allows your bus to go over 75.. seems to be the common theme.. but you can try to convince them otherwise. keep in mind that chances are your tires are only good for 75. and thats a reason why they would say that.. even if your intention is simply to get the revs down for more economical cruising.
-Christopher
 
super cool on getting your tach right!! i figured that was the issue as opposed to your engine spinning super fast.. same issue as i had with my 1990 navistar, the switch was set wrong. good stuff.. Thomas will probably say no if it allows your bus to go over 75.. seems to be the common theme.. but you can try to convince them otherwise. keep in mind that chances are your tires are only good for 75. and thats a reason why they would say that.. even if your intention is simply to get the revs down for more economical cruising.
-Christopher

Tire ratings aren't set in stone. I've been looking into it, and industry standard practice is that if your tires are rated "L" for 75, its safe to go faster especially unloaded, and for every 5 mph over the rating you want to go you're supposed to inflate 5psi more. Up to the tire's max inflation, anyway.

Truck tire speed ratings are a guideline, but pressure is the key - Commercial Business - Modern Tire Dealer

I'll be buying "M" rated tires, they're rated for 81 mph. I dont' plan on cruising at that speed, but it would sure be nice to have it for passing and merging, and all that stuff.
 
super cool on getting your tach right!! i figured that was the issue as opposed to your engine spinning super fast.. same issue as i had with my 1990 navistar, the switch was set wrong. good stuff.. Thomas will probably say no if it allows your bus to go over 75.. seems to be the common theme.. but you can try to convince them otherwise. keep in mind that chances are your tires are only good for 75. and thats a reason why they would say that.. even if your intention is simply to get the revs down for more economical cruising.
-Christopher

Right, but I'd have to be driving it banging off the rev limiter to get 80.

At 2000 rpm, a more reasonable max, 6th gear would give me 72 mph.

75 mph would be 2100 rpm, and the max is 2200.
 
Twigg,

It was lots of fun meeting you and your family (especially the fuzzy ones...).

Made it back after I got a power nap at the rest area on 412. Truck ran fine, nothing moved, and I'll be figuring out new homes for those beautiful seats. I know where I'm putting them initially, but their permanent homes are in the making.

Back on page 9 if you look you can see my truck loaded with the seats in back as I'm backing out this afternoon..... :)

If you need any other help with large projects let me know. I'm sure our schedules will coincide eventually again....

M :biggrin:
 
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Twigg,

It was lots of fun meeting you and your family (especially the fuzzy ones...).

Made it back after I got a power nap at the rest area on 412. Truck ran fine, nothing moved, and I'll be figuring out new homes for those beautiful seats. I know where I'm putting them initially, but their permanent homes are in the making.

Back on page 9 if you look you can see my truck loaded with the seats in back as I'm backing out this afternoon..... :)

If you need any other help with large projects let me know. I'm sure our schedules will coincide eventually again....

M :biggrin:

Those "fuzzy ones" made themselves scarce when the angle-grinder started up :D
 
Visited Tag Office today to get the thing registered in Oklahoma and inquire about a change of body-type to "RV" or "MH".

The very nice lady called state and they need everything sending in. She anticipated no problems, she did the VIN check and certified it. Guy on the other end of the phone seemed to be saying that it was straightforward, but he needed to see the paperwork.
 
Removed the last of the seatpost bases and some of the floor trim.

Peeled back the vinyl floor at the front by the stairwell. The plywood looks like it went down yesterday. If the rest of it is in a similar condition, it's going back down on top of the insulation

P1020283.jpg
 

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