Top ten tools!

"I found one of those sharp burrs with the air mattress this weekend. Grrr."

Look on the bright side...it could have been a waterbed.
Hmm, waterbed, potable water, water tanks, inboard or outboard.... I wonder.:whistling:
 
So, I've been given a Dayton 60 gallon air compressor that I am told works. I have *NOT* wired it up because the control box is damaged and missing a cover. It's been a while since I've done electrical, but ...

It says Max PSI is 135, should I get a 125 cut-off switch? Motor says 15A, 240V, do I wire up this bad boy like a water heater, red and black to the contacts, neutral is unused (and green, of course, to ground). I can wire up 14 ga wire for a 15A circuit, as I recall (and it will be quite close to the breaker box).

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I think I see the gage goes to 200lbs. If so, I would hook it up as you say and see what it cuts out at pressure wise. That switch can be adjusted up or down for cutoff pressure.
Not sure what you have for an electrical panel but a 2-pole 15amp breaker of the same make should be fine. No neutral, so you could use the white and mark it with black tape like the other conductor so there is no confusion.
Is that for home or on the bus?

John-
 
I think I see the gage goes to 200lbs. If so, I would hook it up as you say and see what it cuts out at pressure wise. That switch can be adjusted up or down for cutoff pressure.
Not sure what you have for an electrical panel but a 2-pole 15amp breaker of the same make should be fine. No neutral, so you could use the white and mark it with black tape like the other conductor so there is no confusion.
Is that for home or on the bus?

John-

This is (for now, at least) intended for home use. I have a typical 200 amp home box (I forget the brand, but will be sure to check and get the appropriate breakers).

Just because the gauge goes up to 200 doesn't mean the tank can. One photo shows a label indicating a max rating of 135 PSI, and I'm not too keen on hooking it up with a damaged control unit, the switch lever seems to be broken and there's no cover.

I'm planning to snag a shortie bus with air brakes (and wheelchair lift if possible) so I fail to see a need for another air compressor on a bus so equipped.
 
This is (for now, at least) intended for home use. I have a typical 200 amp home box (I forget the brand, but will be sure to check and get the appropriate breakers).

Just because the gauge goes up to 200 doesn't mean the tank can. One photo shows a label indicating a max rating of 135 PSI, and I'm not too keen on hooking it up with a damaged control unit, the switch lever seems to be broken and there's no cover.

I'm planning to snag a shortie bus with air brakes (and wheelchair lift if possible) so I fail to see a need for another air compressor on a bus so equipped.

my only issue with relying on the bus air is the fact when I need air tools to take stuff apart its usually something that requires the bus to be turned off.. and it doesnt take long to drain onboard tanks..
-Christopher
 
It's probably a bad idea, but you could easily connect a regular 20 or 30 gallon air tank through the service connection and use that as a larger reservoir while the bus is turned off.

I've thought of that extra tank idea as a way to keep the brakes off while towing a bus originally, but it could extend the use of air tools.
 
It's probably a bad idea, but you could easily connect a regular 20 or 30 gallon air tank through the service connection and use that as a larger reservoir while the bus is turned off.

I've thought of that extra tank idea as a way to keep the brakes off while towing a bus originally, but it could extend the use of air tools.

when using air tools it doesnt take long to empty out 30+ gallons of air..
-Christopher
 
Or 30,000 either. Don't kid yourself, air tools consume a lot of air and flat ass don't work without the proper cfm.

Jack:popcorn:
 
Yeah, that's why I bought a roller for my paint job. I've got an adequate compressor but my spray gun seems to have walked off so I'll just roll it rather than buy another sprayer.
 
Yeah, that's why I bought a roller for my paint job. I've got an adequate compressor but my spray gun seems to have walked off so I'll just roll it rather than buy another sprayer.
$50 will get you a 4 cfm sprayer by Husky. That's what I used.
 
One "tool" I have found invaluable... Penetrating oil. I prefer "PB Blaster", but any flavor will do.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
One "tool" I have found invaluable... Penetrating oil. I prefer "PB Blaster", but any flavor will do.
I think I've run out of Kroil but on the bus I haven't needed any. All the bolts that refuse to let go get cut.
 
I think I've run out of Kroil but on the bus I haven't needed any. All the bolts that refuse to let go get cut.
I have had to get into the engine a bit. Even if they look good they get sprayed. Don't want to take any chances. Lol

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
FWIW --- The DOD ran extensive tests on various brands of penetrating solutions and found that that the one that beat all the others...was a home brew.

1/2 Transmission Fluid
1/2 Acetone

You do have to shake it to keep it mixed but I have tried it and it does work like gangbusters.
 

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