Transmogrifie and Me

OK.. took the remaining 3 sheets of 1" back to home depot and got 7 sheets of half inch and a roll of rosin paper for the floor. One small step for woman..
 
Shadoll said:
Now people have me worried about the heat.

Assuming you're talking about heat from the sun baking your metal roof and cooking those inside. :(

Many here have mixed some ceramic beads into their roof paint which cut way down on the heat transfer. Re-painting the roof is way easier than re-insulating the roof from the inside.

http://hytechsales.com/
 
roach711 said:
Shadoll said:
Now people have me worried about the heat.

Assuming you're talking about heat from the sun baking your metal roof and cooking those inside. :(

Many here have mixed some ceramic beads into their roof paint which cut way down on the heat transfer. Re-painting the roof is way easier than re-insulating the roof from the inside.

http://hytechsales.com/
Easier to park in the shade :mrgreen:

decks make good thermal breaks especially if there is 4 or 5 inches between roof and deck material for air movement
 
roach711 said:
Shadoll said:
Now people have me worried about the heat.

Assuming you're talking about heat from the sun baking your metal roof and cooking those inside. :(

Many here have mixed some ceramic beads into their roof paint which cut way down on the heat transfer. Re-painting the roof is way easier than re-insulating the roof from the inside.

http://hytechsales.com/

Yes, I will be painting the roof around the end of March.

And yes, shade is good. It's not like I live in Phx. *lol* but still. I think the bus is pretty well insulated regardless. And I'll have lots of windows to open with screens.
 
[quote="Shadoll"... And yes, shade is good. It's not like I live in Phx. *lol* but still. I think the bus is pretty well insulated regardless. And I'll have lots of windows to open with screens.[/quote]
Shade is a little rare in NM! We are under one of the few really shady spots in the park! :D Downside are the lousy birds that get on the roof and run up and down the length of the bus. And one night, I swear I heard a chicken fall out of the tree, onto the roof then slide down to the ground. David says he didn't hear anything, but he's getting pretty deaf.
 
:LOL: I rented a house once that the squirrels would run across the roof. A tree at one end and one at the other. Surprisingly annoying. Especially when they drop their nut or pine cone and it runs down the roof, pings against the gutter and into whatever else it ricochets onto.
 
Shadoll said:
... Surprisingly annoying...
Who would have thought that tiny bird feet running, repeatedly, all day long, sun up to sun down, every day, all week, all year, across a metal roof could be so annoying. :(
 
lornaschinske said:
Shadoll said:
... Surprisingly annoying...
Who would have thought that tiny bird feet running, repeatedly, all day long, sun up to sun down, every day, all week, all year, across a metal roof could be so annoying. :(
Mmm....electric fence wire from side to side :mrgreen:
Nevermind scratch that thought...
Birds running the 40 foot hurdle race might be louder :LOL:
 
lornaschinske said:
Shadoll said:
... Surprisingly annoying...
Who would have thought that tiny bird feet running, repeatedly, all day long, sun up to sun down, every day, all week, all year, across a metal roof could be so annoying. :(

Yeah.. am thinking.. tin roof has all sorts of new connotations.
 
OK, laid the paper down and started to arrange the styro board and I'm thinking I'm going to be sorry down the road with this stuff. Put a board down because I'm thinking weight spread over space would be less on the styro. My toes that were off the board made dents in the styro. Thinking I'm going to have no insulation very shortly once this stuff mashes down. So I started doing something else with it and ended up walking on it and my footprints barely dented it. hmmm.. I'm oscillating between using this 1/2" R-Tech or taking it back (again) and getting the stuff that's denser and $5 a sheet more. It has an r-3.2 rating where the R-Tech half inch says 1.9. :-| I'm sooooo confused. Wanted to get the plywood tomorrow. Borrowed the saws and everything.
 
Oh and I found the 51 cent bin at Home Depot yesterday. For the furring strips. Thanks Lorna. 8)
 
Some here have laid 1/2" plywood directly over their foam insulation boards and report no (or not much) squashing of the insulation but I decided to lay down some 3/4" wood runners under the 3/4" plywood to keep the insul. boards un-squashed. Maybe I did more than I needed to but I thought it was time well spent.

img_72881_e562e15451f72a913e4655989e103be4.jpg
 
You have to put plywood over the styrofoam and use furring strips as well. Lay out the furring strips, place styro between the furring strips, plywood on top of that.


We didn't go that route. Personal choice. You do need to insulate the floor. Lots of heat transfer in the flooring. Not to mention you need to insulate your tanks and piping from the heat and cold. The need to insulate piping & tanks is why we insulated from the outside. This way we only insulate the floor once.
 
The pink board is made to underlay. I think it's 15 psi max loading. I used 3/4" tongue 'n groove plywood over the 1" foam board. I'm sure you could use thinner osb or ply panels, but if it isn't tongue 'n groove the seams better lie on some batts. If they move you could squish the foam.
 
roach711 said:
Some here have laid 1/2" plywood directly over their foam insulation boards and report no (or not much) squashing of the insulation but I decided to lay down some 3/4" wood runners under the 3/4" plywood to keep the insul. boards un-squashed. Maybe I did more than I needed to but I thought it was time well spent.

img_72885_e562e15451f72a913e4655989e103be4.jpg

I like this, makes sense. And 3/4" wouldn't sag as much. I'll check out what they have for furring tomorrow. Thanks for the pic. Didn't want to go 1" really because I am only 5'2... anyone over 5'10 is already going to barely fit.
 
OKay.. gotta show my pics. I'm one beat mamma tonight..
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The paper roll is holding down a curling plywood edge...
makeshift saw horses....
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old shelf boards I used for 'walking on'.
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I left the posts for the two front risers as I'm not sure what I want to do with that area yet. Think I want to keep them. Used the foam core board to make the fit, then I used it as a pattern to cut the plywood. So I have access to the bolts, or I'll cover them up or take them out all together. Thinking the one behind the drivers seat might save my rear someday from a wild piano breaking loose. :roll: Actually I was considering extending the one behind the driver's seat a bit and taking out the passenger side one and making the stairs come up through there.
Seam looks a little rough in this picture but I filled it in and it butted up fine.
img_72903_bedbe87d5b9c5e6c7edf8502cfe305d8.jpg

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Anyways, might not have been how 'someone else' would have done it but I decided this morning that I had to quit second guessing myself and 'git er done'. Someone commented about the potato chip effect.. and.. most definitely. I cut the boards too close, too tight, and I couldn't get it to 'bend' over the chair rail, so I had to cut the end off. In pasting it back together, I tried using these little hammer in staple things, look like butterfly bandages. Worthless. So I just duck taped the seam for now.

How do you 'fix' the chip effect and how do you hold your ply seams together since you can't screw or nail them down really. Even had the home depot pro desk wondering about that. One guy suggested this tar like tape that is about 6" wide. It was real expensive.

Had to buy more expensive plywood in the area where the trafficmaster flooring is going to be used, used the cheaper stuff on the sides where there wont be as much traffic and under where the carpet is going.

Anyway.. long day, have about the last 9 feet yet to plywood tomorrow.
 
That's why you use furring strips and you do the edges first, then the center (butt the wall side of the plywood to the wall, then lower towards the center of the bus). Thaat way you don't have to "clear" the chair rail.
 

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