Ugh, the not square Thomas buses.

wmkbailey

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2011
Posts
866
Location
West Lafayette, IN
If you plan to raise your roof, get a Bluebird. Thomas buses are not square.

The first issue I had was the fact that the windows lean in about an inch.



After I raise the roof 10" the post will not line up.

Some people smarter than me said this is easy to take care of. I just have to cut the top post on the left side and move it left. Cut the bottom post on the right side and move it right until they line back up. Then weld where you cut. Repeat for me 22 times. I'm only raising from the first to the 11th window.

Now I need help from those smart people. Unlike a Bluebird my post are not square tubing. It is U channel, and it is not square.



Any ideas on how to re- attach? I was going to use 1 1/4" square tubing until I found out it is not square. I want to put a piece in from the top to the bottom of the window area and weld to the existing.
 
I can understand raising the roof if you are too tall to walk in it comfortably. Consider, however, that you will be sitting in your bus 90% of the time.

Someday, I may "raise" my roof. My approach will be different.

I will cut an access hole in the roof. I will weld the top half of a full size van to the bus. I will then make the van addition into a bedroom.
 
Once I re-insulate my interior height will be 6' and I'm 6' tall. I want a little head room. I always where a ball cap and rubbing that buton on the top into my head does not sound like fun :)
 
You could always just learn how to slouch.... I'm sure with a bit of practice you could easily gain 2 inches of headroom that way!

Or You could insulate the floor from the bottom... and leave that inch or so on top.
 
Use round tubing, .083 wall (14 ga) easy to weld no blow thru(like thin and it will "pull everything into a comfort zone...you can only weld what you can see!
 
Make the 1-1/8 dia pcs (do not use DOM too much $$) about 23-7/8 long this will allow saw cut and plenty of strength

If you need help pm me and I will call at work and hook you up to possible sources.

So a 24 foot stick will give you 12 pcs

Cut roof the same way top to bottom toallow angle change when you clamp the 1-1/8 in it will align it mostly
 
When I first stared to research living in a school bus, head room was something I was concerned about. When I found this article:http://www.gumpydog.com/Bus/MC9_WIP/Structural/Raising_The_Roof/raising_the_roof.htm

Lights went off. If he could raise the roof of a MC9 transit bus. A school bus should not be any more difficult. Then I read:
The Millicent Chronicles; two foot roof raise, big tailgate

Now I want to do this. No turning back.
 
Round tubing is stronger than sq or rect. Same size,going with 1/8 is way overkill....it is just so easy to weld with longer duty cycle welders except dynasty series millers...they are "bible banging" :mrgreen:
 
bansil said:
Make the 1-1/8 dia pcs (do not use DOM too much $$) about 23-7/8 long this will allow saw cut and plenty of strength

If you need help pm me and I will call at work and hook you up to possible sources.

So a 24 foot stick will give you 12 pcs

Cut roof the same way top to bottom toallow angle change when you clamp the 1-1/8 in it will align it mostly

You told me on my post about using round tubing, I guess it did not sink in. Thanks.
 
How much welding do you do? If your good enough you would just get the smaller size square tubing, 1-1/8 I think It was. So 1-1/8 square tubing and just fill the gap where it widens to 1-1/4. i have done wider than that, i eyeball a lot of stuff i make and have to most of the time. Would be very easy, and would help if you cut one all beam piece out and used it for a test weld, then just use more square tubing to fill the length you cut.
 
I think round tubing would be a good solution, but isn't there enough flex in the channels that you could just get 1-1/8" square tubing and clamp the sides of the channel (where it is 1-1/4") to it? I have a hard time believing it would be that rigid.
 
my thinking is this:

and only pertains to the 3 different places I buy steel at work

1-1/8 dia x .083 wall tubing ERW (not DOM) is a stocked item and this means it's a lot cheaper

1-1/8 sq tubing is only available in 18 (.049) and 16 gage (.065) sizes and is not stocked so it is more $$

just some options to look at and ERW tubing is plenty strong enough for what your doing

just my .02
 
that's why they had a recall on the juck bussis,they make them the chesps way and bad steel :shock: :shock: ,,buy a B/B... :D
 
JakeC said:
I think round tubing would be a good solution, but isn't there enough flex in the channels that you could just get 1-1/8" square tubing and clamp the sides of the channel (where it is 1-1/4") to it? I have a hard time believing it would be that rigid.

ThePimentals said:
How much welding do you do? If your good enough you would just get the smaller size square tubing, 1-1/8 I think It was. So 1-1/8 square tubing and just fill the gap where it widens to 1-1/4. i have done wider than that, i eyeball a lot of stuff i make and have to most of the time. Would be very easy, and would help if you cut one all beam piece out and used it for a test weld, then just use more square tubing to fill the length you cut.


1-1/8" square tubing is hard to find and is not very thick. Round tubing has about twice as thick a wall.
 
bansil said:
my thinking is this:

and only pertains to the 3 different places I buy steel at work

1-1/8 dia x .083 wall tubing ERW (not DOM) is a stocked item and this means it's a lot cheaper

1-1/8 sq tubing is only available in 18 (.049) and 16 gage (.065) sizes and is not stocked so it is more $$

just some options to look at and ERW tubing is plenty strong enough for what your doing

just my .02

Very good points! Never even thought of that...
 
keith said:
that's why they had a recall on the juck bussis,they make them the chesps way and bad steel :shock: :shock: ,,buy a B/B... :D

If I submit my Thomas bus for the recall will they replace it with a Bluebird? :D
 
they just tell u sorry ,but u owne it,,,, they had a bad roll over facter,if u roll it the roof would not hold up,,,it was on the news and a lot of them went thougth a flood down south here so take the ser # and fine out where the bus was shipped too,,all bus companys has records of sales.



oh I see that u from my old stomping ground,,,,,i was from towson,and baltimore
 
Malkieri said:
I could not find any info on Thomas buses having those problems...are you sure you're not thinking of the Carpenters made in the early 90's in Mitchell factory? Those had bad welds in the roof structure, but only the Mitchell factory buses had these issues. http://www.nhtsa.gov/people/injury/buses/CarpenterBus/index.htm
you are correct and these are the pictures which show the differences in the buses
 
I had to pop your cork ,,,but carputer bus is a sub div of Thomas bus div... there are four bus makers,,1-,B/B,2-,Gillion, 3-Thomas/carputer/ward/ there is a another bus company.in cal that's makes a bus


the reson I know this is I worked for B/B fort valley Ga and we would get in others makes for trade in....and would have to get parts and on there boxes was Thomas carputer ward school bus div
 

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