Weldon 7000-1000 bus flasher help

Joined
Nov 8, 2021
Posts
10
Hello. Im trying to make my top flashing school bus lights stay solid for ohv /fog aux lights. I replaced the top front amd back (8) with clear Led.

I have 07 chevy express 6.6 chassis on a 09 thomas minotour

Im trying to avoid wiring them to there own switch since they are already wired up and fused through the thomas board

It seems that my switch goes through the board and powers the weldon 7000-1000 flasher via 2 orange wires that are connected with a easy pull apart flat connecter, all the lights and some other bits and bobs are pinned to plug that connects to the weldon. So if i just depin the light wires that should bypass the flasher then just give those 8 wires power from the switch. Does that makes sense
 

Attachments

  • 62D24610-C45D-4395-810F-3BBA0879273E.jpeg
    62D24610-C45D-4395-810F-3BBA0879273E.jpeg
    344.1 KB · Views: 27
  • A9D39A02-C8BB-4A73-B300-3798B8F4C7E5.jpeg
    A9D39A02-C8BB-4A73-B300-3798B8F4C7E5.jpeg
    203 KB · Views: 17
  • 05426A47-5790-498F-9155-F4A8586EB73F.jpg
    05426A47-5790-498F-9155-F4A8586EB73F.jpg
    148.9 KB · Views: 15
Hello. Im trying to make my top flashing school bus lights stay solid for ohv /fog aux lights. I replaced the top front amd back (8) with clear Led.

I have 07 chevy express 6.6 chassis on a 09 thomas minotour

Im trying to avoid wiring them to there own switch since they are already wired up and fused through the thomas board

It seems that my switch goes through the board and powers the weldon 7000-1000 flasher via 2 orange wires that are connected with a easy pull apart flat connecter, all the lights and some other bits and bobs are pinned to plug that connects to the weldon. So if i just depin the light wires that should bypass the flasher then just give those 8 wires power from the switch. Does that makes sense

Here is the service manual for the Weldon 7000 flasher module.

You might find your answers in there.
 

Attachments

  • WELDON FLASHER.pdf
    213.1 KB · Views: 97
Foolish move to make the upper lights fog lights. Fog lights work best at 10-24" above the ground and shinning on the road under the fog layer. Mounting them high will make the fog worse to see through. I made mine driving and turn signals.
 
Why did you just pick the word fog out of OHV lights and aux off road type lights. Lol im in cali it just for off road lighting. ��
 
Why did you just pick the word fog out of OHV lights and aux off road type lights. Lol im in cali it just for off road lighting. ��

Because they each have a different beam for different uses. If you want them for fogs, bad idea. If you want driving lights, don't use fog lights. I would not want driving lights, or high beams on all the time. Do you plan on them being high beams or low beams? Different bulbs and different wiring.
 
Thank you but that us a different module then what i have. Pins are wired different.


Ok, I may have found something that might be useful.

On this pdf, pgs. 21-22, you will find wiring pin outs and a wiring diagram on how it is wired up, in any bus that is.

http://offroadengineering.com/media/6-pdf-Page-Warning-Lamp-Flasher-Catalog.pdf

I am on a borrowed computer so my apology for not uploading the doc.

Let us know if the diagram was helpful … or not.
 
The OP said, "Hello. I'm trying to make my top flashing school bus lights stay solid for ohv /fog aux lights. I replaced the top front amd back ( with clear Led.

Because they each have a different beam for different uses. If you want them for fogs, bad idea. If you want driving lights, don't use fog lights. I would not want driving lights, or high beams on all the time. Do you plan on them being high beams or low beams? Different bulbs and different wiring.

I wouldn't use bright white lights at the top of the roof, front or rear. Oncoming vehicles would be blinded by such lights. In the rear, you'd also be blinding anyone following you. If you only want to use them for off-road or setting up camp, you could use the lights then.

With a multimeter and perhaps a few pins to pierce the wire insulation, it shouldn't be much of a chore to identify which wires are power in to the flasher unit and which are flashing power out to the lights. Then simply connect the wires from incoming power to the flashing out wires and bypass the flasher unit completely.
 
So are you saying that you already have an auxiliary light switch, powering an auxiliary light circuit, which has some lights already illuminating when that switch is flipped, and you wish to add your flashers (now LEDs) to the same circuit?


If that's the case, the wires from the welden flasher unit marked (left amber, right amber, left red, right red) are the output (hot) wires going directly to those lights. The lights themselves are grounded to the frame at some point (either at the light itself, or via ground wires running all the way back to the fuse panel area). So all you should need to do is parallel the hot output from the switch (or from the relay it's powering, if it's driving a relay) to those leads after disconnecting them from the flasher (or deleting the flasher entirely).



FYI we replaced our front flashers with clear leds (though we did something different with wiring) and I think they're useful for low-level, dispersed lighting that might be handy finding a road in the sticks you want to turn off onto, or setting up a campsite. Definitely not enough light to work under due to orientation/height, but sometimes not-alot of light is a good thing. And if you're interested in what's living in the trees ahead of you they're the bee's knees. Of course for off-road only use, but I figured that was implied. :thumb:
 
Last edited:

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top