What price should I set?

Dapplecreek

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Posts
692
Location
near Christiansburg VA
I'm selling the bus which successfully brought my wife, me, and all of our belongings across the country. We have $4600 into the bus in terms of purchase price, repairs, paint, and add-ons.

What should I be asking for it?

9IfhMld.jpg

  • 2002 Freightliner with Thomas FS-65 coachwork;
  • 10 window/11 rows of seats;
  • 207K miles or so (estimated), low hours for those miles;
  • Cummins 5.9 which starts right up;
  • Allison 2000 overdrive transmission;
  • Governed at 60;
  • Air brakes;
  • Air door;
  • Air-ride rear suspension;
  • A few pinholes of rust poking through the paint at the top of one of the wheel wells (since sanded, primed, and painted);
  • All seats except the one above the back heater have been removed.
  • The bus has been painted (New Holland Blue / Gloss White, using Tractor Supply's version of Rustoleum, after sanding).
  • Lowest panel of forward door is rusted out (flat metal: easy fix);
  • Rusted wire chase (or something else nonstructural) L-R next to floor support. Can't tell what it is there for, but it's not part of the stoutness of the bus itself).
  • No body damage (well, except the lens on the light above the license plate - backed into a dumpster);
  • Aluminum air-cleaner-to-engine pipe worn through by heater hoses (holes at top), covered with Gorilla Tape as a temporary - but highly effective - fix (recommended by big rig mechanic - he's seen lots of this problem fixed this way);
  • Oil leak at front of engine, believed to be the front seal (used ~7 qts of oil in 2700 miles);
  • One moderately small underbody box;
  • Good tread and age on the tires;
  • Spare tire included;
  • New fan clutch;
  • New thermostat;
  • 2000 watt inverter
  • New deep cycle battery
  • Heavy wiring for inverter, including cutout switch
  • Co-pilot's seat (from Suburban, with integrated shoulder belt) welded to minivan pedestal. The seat is behind the driver (long story) but could be repositioned;
  • Additional mechanical temperature gauge to provide a check on the instrument panel gauge: the instrument panel gauge reads hotter than reality).
  • All service records since it was new;
  • Successful trip across the country (Virginia to Washington) with only one hitch - lost instrument panel lights: fixed by swapping around relays).
  • Sold to me by a very kind and helpful bus mechanic who flips a few buses a year.

Thanks!

-Tim
 
Good to hear you made it with all that pressure on you. May be we will meet again one day.

May be clean the inside and put some chairs and a table in it for a picture showing the potential. For a bus that just ran 2700 miles with Allison 2000. $5000 would be a great price. I would start with 6500.

Later j
 
More votes for Facebook. Facebook Facebook Facebook. People in Skoolie and Skoolie Nation are all about buying full or partial conversions for top dollar, because they lack the skills or knowledge or ability or motivation or just aren't in a place where they can convert something themselves for whatever reason.
 
the only red flag i see it is the oil leak.. 7 quarts in 2700 miles isnt terrible but might scare some away.. otherwise around 5k is a great place to start.. its a conversion with some parts already done that people see mto hate... ie seat removal and body painting..



-Christopher
 
its a conversion with some parts already done that people seem to hate... ie seat removal and body painting..



-Christopher


Exactly. We paid to have that work done because we didn't wanna get burned out doing the grunt work, we just wanted to get into the fun/creative stuff. We were afraid we'd lose our mojo and inspiration. Not sorry with our choice.
 
Exactly. We paid to have that work done because we didn't wanna get burned out doing the grunt work, we just wanted to get into the fun/creative stuff. We were afraid we'd lose our mojo and inspiration. Not sorry with our choice.

If anyone in FL wants that kind of stuff done hit me up. :wink1:
 
If anyone in FL wants that kind of stuff done hit me up. :wink1:

Tim,

I am with the rest of the crowd. Facebook and CL $6500 or best offer.


CB,

Any interest in moving to WA? Much nicer than FL:hide:

Lots of buses up here to paint:biggrin:
 
Still Available?

Did you ever post an ad for this bus? My Brother in law is looking in this price range.
 
Aluminum air-cleaner-to-engine pipe worn through by heater hoses (holes at top), covered with Gorilla Tape as a temporary .....

A better easy permanent fix it to get a boot that just slides over the pipe (the type for making connections) and put a clamp on the ends.
No welding, no epoxys, no tape. Done
 
Aluminum air-cleaner-to-engine pipe worn through by heater hoses (holes at top), covered with Gorilla Tape as a temporary .....

A better easy permanent fix it to get a boot that just slides over the pipe (the type for making connections) and put a clamp on the ends.
No welding, no epoxys, no tape. Done

This is a pretty large pipe, and the hole's on a bend. Possibly a drain repair kit or something? I'll look to see what I can find at the hardware store. Thanks!

P0eIf81.jpg
 
This is a pretty large pipe, and the hole's on a bend. Possibly a drain repair kit or something? I'll look to see what I can find at the hardware store. Thanks!

P0eIf81.jpg

Based on the size of the pipe, a 3" or 4" fernco (rubber plumbing drainage fitting) might work. Just slide it over and clamp it down. There are also some specialty angled metal multi-band clamps made for joining no-hub cast iron drain pipe that might work, but the bend might be too much of an angle for those and they are pretty hard to find. Leave the fernco out in the sun or otherwise warm it up before you install and it should make that bend no problem.
 

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