What to do after OSPHO

Skipoffools

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Southern Oregon
I mopped the floor with ospho after using orange degreaser to remove the adhesive residue, and now I have a white mess. The plan was to spray with the hose but it's not all coming off. Anyone have a suggestion of what to do after a 24 hour soak of ospho? I want good paint adhesion.

Also I was planning to acetone with a maroon scotch Brite pad would it be best to do this after the Ospho?

:trash:
 
I mopped the floor with ospho after using orange degreaser to remove the adhesive residue, and now I have a white mess. The plan was to spray with the hose but it's not all coming off. Anyone have a suggestion of what to do after a 24 hour soak of ospho? I want good paint adhesion.

Also I was planning to acetone with a maroon scotch Brite pad would it be best to do this after the Ospho?

:trash:

Wire brush anything that's loose, rinse it off, and paint it.
 
Seems to me that if you are using ospho to treat the rust, the surface is already roughed up. I don't think you need the pads to scuff the floor. Like ECB said, wire brush off all the loose stuff, rinse it off, let it dry, prime and paint. And then cover up your nice paint job with plywood subflooring ;-)
 
Seems to me that if you are using ospho to treat the rust, the surface is already roughed up. I don't think you need the pads to scuff the floor. Like ECB said, wire brush off all the loose stuff, rinse it off, let it dry, prime and paint. And then cover up your nice paint job with plywood subflooring ;-)

Precisely!:thumb:
 
I didn't wash mine off. I swept up real good and then painted over it with rustoleum metal paint primer. Now I'll be applying a regular coat of paint....cheap old Glidden as a matter of fact because I already used the good stuff on the bare metal.

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It is a better practice to rinse off the ospho and dry the panels before painting. The ospho reacts chemically with rust and is for the most part neutralized. Ospho does not react to any extent with paint and so is still quite acidic even though dry.
For best paint adhesion you need to have a chemically inactive surface. etching primers would be an exception as they are themselves chemically reactive. Jack:popcorn:
 
It is a better practice to rinse off the ospho and dry the panels before painting. The ospho reacts chemically with rust and is for the most part neutralized. Ospho does not react to any extent with paint and so is still quite acidic even though dry.
For best paint adhesion you need to have a chemically inactive surface. etching primers would be an exception as they are themselves chemically reactive. Jack:popcorn:

x2. Sucks, but gotta rinse. Rent a rug doctor /wetvac or something to suck up the h2O.

Paint=prep
 
If your bus is stipped inside water won't really hurt anything. don't go crazy with it, just a quick rinse will neutralize it pretty well.
 
I felt like rinsing it off would reactivate the rust. I painted with Rustoleum rusty metal primer months ago after neutralizing the rust with Etch and prep which turned all of the rust black...been walking on it...alot... and it hasn't worn off...or peeled. I had a leaky window and the floor got wet... no re-rusting and it's in great condition. I think using the rusty metal primer is key. Now I'm ready to give it a quick coat of paint.

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I felt like rinsing it off would reactivate the rust. I painted with Rustoleum rusty metal primer months ago after neutralizing the rust with Etch and prep which turned all of the rust black...been walking on it...alot... and it hasn't worn off...or peeled. I had a leaky window and the floor got wet... no re-rusting and it's in great condition. I think using the rusty metal primer is key. Now I'm ready to give it a quick coat of paint.

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No the water won't reactivate rust.
I dont always wash it, sometimes I wire brush the hell out of it after ospho, then I wipe with acetone, then paint.
 
I did wire brush some of the spots before sweeping. Before I had the chance to paint with the metal primer I did have some spots start to rust right back up so I treated them again and then made sure I painted soon after. all is good now.
It's all a learning experience.

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Got me thinking and wondering why I was having flash rust in spots. We had an incredibly rainy and humid time while I was working on the rusty floors. This could be a matter of Northeast vs Southeast where in the south you have that blaring sun that tends to dry things quicker. My humidity and cloudy days days went on for weeks and weeks. I should have gotten to the painting sooner than I did.

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I wire wheeled the bulk off to insure flat paint and good adhesion. Used Rustoleum Pro primer and paint coats.

BE AWARE WIRE WHEELING WILL GIVE METAL FUME FEVER

At least if you are an idiot like I was and breathe it. Ventilation and a proper mask is critical when dealing with zinc oxide.

Anyhoo, that was years ago, and the floor paint remains nice.

Here is a read: OSPHO factory response - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
 
Metal Fume Fever is the name for an illness that is caused primarily by exposure to zinc oxide fume (ZnO) in the workplace. The main cause of this exposure is usually breathing the fumes from welding, cutting, or brazing on galvanized metal.

I hate that ****, pardon my French. Open all windows, run big fans, mask-up and go at it.
 
Timelord, I followed your link and am thankful that I'm only using it on the floors. Quite the discussion!

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