Wheels ???

swinada

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2007
Posts
538
Location
Northern BC Canada
Can somebody tell me what kind of wheels I would have to look for if I wanted to replace the ones on my Thomas?
I am not used to the terms used with big truck wheels. When I look at the ALCOA web site I see things like HandHole Wheels, Hub pilot, 10 bolt holes on 11.25", 10 bolts on 335mm. It is all spanish to me....?????
My tires say on it 11 22.5Radial
here a coupple pics
skoolies0001.jpg

Front

skoolies0009.jpg

and the back with dualies
 
Those would be dayton.
6 spoke on the front and 5 spoke on the rear.
And the little things that the nuts hold on are wheel clamps.
Then on the rear you have a spacer ring. On mine I had to get something that the shop called a cheater ring and add it to the spacer ring to make the clamps hold tight.
 
You are pretty much out of luck if you're looking at Alcoa's. I could explain the terms you were seeing, but it really doesn't matter since they are for the disc style wheels.

Never fear, however. There are still options as long as you're wanting the looks and not all the other advantages (and disadvantages) to the big aluminum Alcoas. Look into getting wheel simulators. You'd be amazed how many big rigs use them. Think of them as REALLY big shiny hubcaps.

If you're dead set on getting a disc style wheel like what you were probably looking at on the Alcoa site you will be spending some serious money to convert the hubs and brakes to the different style (if parts even exist). A cheaper option would PROBABLY be to swap axles....or just buy a bus that already has the style wheels you want. Just check out the simulators.
 
Thanks guys,and where would I find REALLY big shiny hubcaps? Do things like that exist on e-bay? What size would I have to be looking for? 22.5"???If I look around on the net I find many for PickUp trucks and the biggest ones around 19.5".
What would I be looking for to fit a Thomas Safetliner 1996 40" pusher. Tried frightliner but there also it only goes to 19.5"
 
:D
Well, I gotta be me, so here goes. :?

I see those kind of wheel covers along the side of the road all the time. And when they are still on the motor home I call them Wobble-Hats, because they rarely seem to be on straight and they wobble down the road. Being me, I just don't much care for Fake Stuff.

So... it's just a suggestion -- to spend your money on something that actually serves a useful purpose, and you may be happier in the long run.

But that's just me.

:D
 
I like that name " Wobble hats" :) Will see if I buy some or if I just put some Silver POR-15 on the rims (RedNeck Chrome Wheels)
Thinking about tires, how the heck would a guy change a tire on a 40 foot bus? Where would one store a spare? What kind of jack would I need to be able to jack this puppy up?
 
:D
Well, I'm afraid the short answer is that you don't. You take the bus to a shop. :(

And if you have a flat on the road, you call road service and they come out and fix it right there on the side of the road if necessary. :eek:

Remember, "A man's got to know his limitations". 8)
:D
 
And if you have a flat on the road, you call road service and they come out and fix it right there on the side of the road if necessary

Hmmm I guess I have to re-familirize myself with how to do a road side emergency flat repair. I got enough air to fill the tires. :) It could be a very long and very expensive wait for the repair man. Just imagine Dempster Hwy. or Alaska Hwy. a few hundred miles from the next settlement which might or might not have a service station.
 
swinada said:
I like that name " Wobble hats" :) Will see if I buy some or if I just put some Silver POR-15 on the rims (RedNeck Chrome Wheels)
Thinking about tires, how the heck would a guy change a tire on a 40 foot bus? Where would one store a spare? What kind of jack would I need to be able to jack this puppy up?

I have done the painting them silver thing, and it looked pretty good. Can't tell you how long they stayed that way because I have new wheels now.

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I jacked up my bus and took the wheel off once to work on the steering arm. It took two people with a T-handle wrench and two cheater bars to get the nuts loose but it could be done on the side of the road. I used two normal heavy duty floor jacks.

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I dont think getting the wheel off would be a problem (air hammer wrench) but jacking the thing up could be a problem.
I was thinking along the way of a piece of 2x10 on the ground to keep the jack from sinking and then som3 20ton bottlejack will hopefully be strong enough to lift one wheel off the ground. A heavier task will be wrestling that wheel around and then get it back on. They are not really lightweight. :(
 
:D
I failed to consider where you would be driving! :LOL:

Yes, you need to get a lesson from a pro, round up the proper equipment, and practice at home. Stout board, big bottle jack, long pry bar for lifting tire-and-wheel off the ground onto the hub...

So I'm changing my response to: Find a pro who is willing to teach you, hands on.
:D
 
One nice thing about dayton is they are easier to mount on the bus, you don't need to line up the holes but even that isn't too hard. You can set the height with the jack and you can slide the wheel right on or use a long bar under the tire to lift it up. As for looseing the nuts lifting up takes less effort than trying to push down. Also keep the nuts on part way on the rear before hitting the wheel with a hammer or prying on it with a bar cause those wheel clamps can shoot out pretty quick.
 
Just for the nuts of it all...what does a bus tire and Dayton rim weigh roughly in the 10.00R20 or 11R22.5 size range? When I had my flat replaced at a tire shop last year they used a tire jack, but I can't imagine that they're ALL that much heavier than a big Super Swamper and I've wrestled plenty of those into place before.
 
You can also carry a spare unmounted (steering) tire. A good tire guy can mount one by the side of the road on your rim with spoons in just a few minutes. Can be much cheaper than buying a tire from him (by the side of the road -- $$$$ -- if the tire place has one (probably so)). If it's a rear dual, keep on going 'til you get someplace (maybe not so in AK, though).
 
Good luck on changing one of these on the side of the road, spoken like a true novice. I have changed ALL my wheels myself and let me tell you, you better be in good shape because you will be worn slick after you do ONE yourself. It takes me about an hour to get the old one off and the new one on (when in practice) and I have done around a dozen so far. You will need special tire tools like a bead sledge, spoons, soap etc and of course a jack on flat ground. The only impact that will work is a 1" with at least a 5/8 hose with 150# of air pressure feeding it. I don't even bother carrying any of that stuff in my bus, I plan on calling a tire place and having them fix it. I'll call them up, tell them my tire size and waiting for them to put a brand new one on. The added expense of paying them would be offset by the space you would lose carring a spare and you spending several hours jacking around trying to get your tire changed and calling them up later anyway. You would have to carry a spare tire if you planned on putting one on and that would take up entirely too much space. As far as getting service you would be suprised where they are and where they will go, how little it really costs, and there is one around every corner, you just haven't looked. sportyrick
 
sportyrick I agree with your post as far as the changing tire goes, however with your statement about having a tireshop around every corner I have to ask " how often have you travelled the Alaska Hwy, Yukon territory, Northern BC yet???? If you know of any hidden tire repair shops up here that I might have mist in the past let me know."
 
I'd say to just have a spare under the bus on maybe a rack that hangs down. Now when I say spare I mean a tire already mounted on a rim. Then as for changing the flat it is as easy as changing it out which doesn't take too long. A impact is nice to use but isn't necessary, all you need is a large breaker bar with a long cheater bar on it for extra leverage. It can be done this way but it is easier to use an impact. Here at home I use a 3/4 IR261 with a 1/2 hose and a small air compressor which can't maintain air pressure over 120 psi it does work better at the shop using 3/4 inch hose with 160 psi. The first time I changed my wheels from 20 inch to 22.5 I used the breaker/cheater bar method and after that I found my 3/4 impact on ebay.
 

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