Window delete question

[Winky;)]

Hello!! I’m brand new just bought my short bus Winky two weeks ago. I’m already almost finished gutting it just have a few things left.
I’m planning on doing some window deletes for some privacy and insulate it more but I’m limited on the space I have to work and budget I’m working with. Am I able to do a window delete without a metal brake?
I don’t have a table to put it on and don’t want to spend that much money on one either. Seeing if someone tried something else or has some advice for me.
Thank you!!!

 

[Timeline]

The metal supplier should be able to bend the deletes for you at a reasonable price. I only needed 2 sides bent doing it this way:

Covering up windows

I have a 1996 Blue Bird dog nose short bus, and I would like to cover all the windows with metal, and then cut holes for RV windows. The Blue Birds have those eyebrows over the windows, and I am trying to figure out how to do this without making a mess of it. Can someone point me to a write...

www.skoolie.net

 

[Tejon7]

If you're deleting all the windows, you could forego bending and use a single sheet for the entire side. I've seen people who remove upper rub rail, snug the sheet metal up under the gutter as tight as possible, then replace the rub rail over the bottom side of the sheet. With decently thick sheet, rivets around 3 side of each window frame, and quality sealant along the upper edge they looked like they worked pretty well.

I assume you're talking about the insert-style window deletes, though. Skoolie.com will make you custom bent galvannealed deletes, but they're pricey. Second best option IMO is to find a local shop that will bend your pieces for you. If you cut everything and mark the bend lines, it won't take them long and maybe they'll give you a good deal.

Bending by hand is possible, but it won't come out as good as from a brake. I've bent up to 16 gauge sheet steel by hand (small pieces, not 8' long or anything). For that thickness I needed to score the bend line with a skinny cutoff wheel to make it doable. I hear most people use 18(?) gauge for window deletes, so you'd probably have to score yours as well to get a decent bend. Clamp the sheet at the edge of a work bench between two pieces of stout angle iron, putting the angles just a hair past your bend line. Then use 2 or more locking sheet metal clamps to make the bend. The locking clamps may keep you from getting a full 90° bend, so finish off with a hammer. If using galvanized or galvannealed, probably best to keep the score line on the inside of the bend for rust resistance, even though the metal doesn't like to bend that way as easily.

Edit: Hadn't seen Timeline's approach before. That looks far superior to attempting to bend all four sides by hand.

 

[Winky;)]

Thank you for all the information! yall are amazing!! @Timeline @Tejon7

 

[Tejon7]

Good luck! Can't wait to see the results (hint hint ... Post pics when you're done pretty please )

 

[sportyrick]

I have seen a bus that used a long sheet of steel to block all the windows, it doesn't work, as the bus flexes from changing loads and temperatures the sheet wrinkles, not a little but a lot, my vote is don't do it that way.

 

[Hutchy-SKO]

Hello!! I’m brand new just bought my short bus Winky two weeks ago. I’m already almost finished gutting it just have a few things left.
I’m planning on doing some window deletes for some privacy and insulate it more but I’m limited on the space I have to work and budget I’m working with. Am I able to do a window delete without a metal brake?
I don’t have a table to put it on and don’t want to spend that much money on one either. Seeing if someone tried something else or has some advice for me.
Thank you!!!

Window Deletes | Skoolie.com skoolie dot com sells them, seems expensive to me but idk

 

[ewo1]

I have seen a bus that used a long sheet of steel to block all the windows, it doesn't work, as the bus flexes from changing loads and temperatures the sheet wrinkles, not a little but a lot, my vote is don't do it that way.

????
That's exactly how I deleted all my windows. If you don't rivet them at the ribs then yes flexing might become an issue but otherwise...it is how the rest of the bus walls are attached.
Top side slid under the drip rail and bottoms side secured under the rub rail, secured with 1/4" rivets all the way around!

 

[catfishlutz]

Hello!! I’m brand new just bought my short bus Winky two weeks ago. I’m already almost finished gutting it just have a few things left.
I’m planning on doing some window deletes for some privacy and insulate it more but I’m limited on the space I have to work and budget I’m working with. Am I able to do a window delete without a metal brake?
I don’t have a table to put it on and don’t want to spend that much money on one either. Seeing if someone tried something else or has some advice for me.
Thank you!!!Drift Boss

I've seen a bus that blocked all the windows with a large sheet of steel, but it doesn't work; the sheet wrinkles a lot as the bus flexes under various loads and temperatures. I would advise against doing it that way.

 

[TaliaDPerkins]

I've seen a bus that blocked all the windows with a large sheet of steel, but it doesn't work; the sheet wrinkles a lot as the bus flexes under various loads and temperatures. I would advise against doing it that way.

If the windows are to be deleted, then you think each one should get it's own small sheet for a delete?

 

[nikitis]

You do use sheet metal, but you need 16gauge steel to ensure it doesn't wrinkle. 18 gauge steel will work decently as well, but not any thinner. Some people cheapen out and use > 18 gauge steel and it will wrinkle up.

 

[Surf44]

I have the exact bus as you, I’m planning on taking all the windows out and using 16g sheet maybe 18g if it’s that much cheaper. But I don’t like the look of the single window deletes and it’s just more seams and areas to leak in the future.