Window Latch or Tab Replacement - How To

[nikitis]

Preface:
Starting this thread for reference and education for others who may need to replace tabs in their windows.

I'm in process of replacing my windows tabs because almost all of them are broken.

Also Window tabs are VERY expensive. I've seen them as high as $40 a pop, and as low as $20 and if you need to replace all of them, we're talking costing nearly as much as a roof raise just to fix your Windows tabs which is ridiculous. I have only 16 windows, so 32 tabs x $40 = $1280 for just window tabs. $640 on the cheaper side.

SO, I will offer knowledge on Early 90's Thomas Bodies as that's what bus I have. This should be the same for any early 90's Vista Thomas buses as well, but not all. If anyone else would like to show a tutorial on here for their bus Window Tabs on their Bus types, your content is welcomed to post here.

I will also add a 3D Print Stencil FREE of charge that I will design by hand to replace your tabs. Sorry to anyone trying to sell these, but at those prices it's criminal, and with the advent of 3D printing, you no longer have a monopoly on the Window Tab Industry. I also will offer a service FREE of charge, to anyone who needs a 3D print stencil of their buses tab if you are willing to mail one to me in tact. I will model it up for you and offer the stencil so you can print your own. I would be willing to print you some for the price of the plastic which would probably be enough for a whole bus for $20 total, my prints would work for your bus, but I don't guarantee quality of smoothness of the prints as I have an older substandard printer, but they would work in your bus functionality wise. But my intent is not to make money with this but to help keep these buses ALIVE and ORIGINAL for those who wish to maintain their buses, and offer a far cheaper way to fix your Windows.

Thomas early 90's Windows. '94-'97 year Thomas Buses likely do NOT have these windows. My Windows were from 90-94 Thomas buses but bleed over to my '95 Thomas so it's a rare one. It may be the same but it likely could be different. Most of these the removal is similar as far as the tabs go, but removal of window parts may be slightly different to yours.

How To: Thomas early 90's Window Tab Replacement.

Remove Star Studded screws (You might have Square Studded screws). Both sides. Then the top comes apart. This allows you to slide the upper glass pane OUT of the frame which is what you must do to get to the tabs.

Slide out. Then on the pane you removed, there's 3 screws. Two up top, one on the bottom of the side aluminium panel. The 3rd pic here shows how the aluminium frame wraps around it. It needs to be removed to get to the tab.

Here you can see the 3rd screw by my hand.

There's kind of a felt/plastic like cover, it can be removed. Helps with sliding in the frame. Then the aluminium side frame can pop out. Exposing the rubber seal on the glass. Remove the sides on both sides. Now the tab is exposed but still won't come out just yet. There's a trick to it.

This is the end of the section of taking apart the window, and getting to the tab. Also at picture limit, so continuing on next post....

 

[nikitis]

....Continuing:

Here is a picture of the Window Tab exposed. You can see here it's a slide with springs. Even as is you cannot pull this tab out no matter how hard you pull. The springs are providing resistance and rubbing against the case holding it preventing them from coming out.

The Trick here. And I couldn't find any mention on how to do this so I had to figure this out on my own. You have to push it out as far as it would go, and then try to grab the springs and pull them out. It will feel like they don't want to pop out but they will. So pull them out. THEN you can push the tab all the way IN and the plastic part where it joins the metal can be reached now.

Pry it out upwards, it will pop out.

And here are the parts taken out. All there is to it!

3D Stencil will come in a later post. I have to model it first. Just got the tab out so now I can 3D print them. Coming soon!

 

[nikitis]

Modeled it up:

Now to try a 3D Print and Test Fit it.

The originals are molded and are hollow at every chance they could get it hollow. This is why they broke originally because they are so thin.

These are solid printed models so they should not break as easily as the originals and will be stronger than the replacement ones for $20-$40.

Playing around with branding.

First Test Prints to be Sliced.

 

[nikitis]

Printing.

And done!

Closed, pulled in:

Open:

They feel great. They look a little sloppy, (This is just a prototype), but they are functional and feel far more sturdy than the ones that come with the bus. More of a Dry Test fit, and they fit perfectly and function perfectly.

 

[nikitis]

Second print was a success. Looks better on the face. Better quality.

I compare both the original and my print, You can see they identical fitment and work and function well.

The original is so thin as it was a press fit when formed warm, and is very thin which over 30 years tends to snap. The ones I printed should last much longer, are still hollow but only slightly. They have a thick infill Percentage, and that reinforces every bit of the structure so these should not break any time soon and will likely last much longer than the original factory ones.

I also like the Thomas logo touch. What do you guys think?

 

[nikitis]

As promised, in the zip is the stencil set for these. Happy printing!

Let me know if these were useful to you.

And if you need tabs printed from another bus window type, send me a DM, and we'll arrange delivery so I can model yours up.
(Rename the .txt as .zip to get the files).

 

[AzironaZack]

This is great! Well done! Mine are all breaking one by one… I bought a bunch of replacements pretty cheap a few years ago but I just don't want to mess with them. At some point I'll have to.

3D printing new ones is a great idea!

 

[nikitis]

If your windows have the 5 screws, 2 on each side, one up top then this latch will likely work for yours.

 

[Cheezewhiz]

This is great!

A bunch of ours started crapping out lately, my instant fix has been to drive a screw with some paracord tied to it, not ideal, or pretty, but so far has only failed once. Lol

Maybe next time we make it to a decent sized town, we'll hit up a makerspace, and you!

 

[Cheezewhiz]

 

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

maybe some graphite powder,antisieze lube (i hate but it works and gets everywhere) or silicone spray would help them last longer by getting rid of some friction of the plastic and metal rubbing?

 

[Toddthomp]

Thank you Nikitis for this incredible solution! Our bluebird bus isn't currently experiencing any problems with window tabs but 3D printing is sure awesome. I love it when technology and a community like this can save someone ~$1180! Also, wouldn't it be nice if we could remove the window with tabs without having to remove the entire frame.

 

[nikitis]

Thank you Nikitis for this incredible solution! Our bluebird bus isn't currently experiencing any problems with window tabs but 3D printing is sure awesome. I love it when technology and a community like this can save someone ~$1180! Also, wouldn't it be nice if we could remove the window with tabs without having to remove the entire frame.

Yeah I know. I looked closely at the mechanism, but unless you can reach the springs for removal, which you cannot, without removing and dismantling the whole window. There is a indention above and below the spring mechanism that the springs hit which is all that is preventing the tab from coming out enough to remove it. It's pretty ingenious way of making it so the mechanism doesn't fall out but terrible when you need to replace them. With this 3D print design I made the plastic is so thick you likely will never have to replace them again.

You could maybe break the tab with a hammer hitting it, but your thumbs pressing likely won't break them even with a lot of force.

maybe some graphite powder,antisieze lube (i hate but it works and gets everywhere) or silicone spray would help them last longer by getting rid of some friction of the plastic and metal rubbing?

So I've learned from removing these that a lot of times when you pull on the tabs, and they don't move, it's not friction from the backside causing it to not slide, but it's hung up on the end "Triangle" part that goes into the window frame, If you take the weight off of that, by lifting the window pane with your palm slightly, it will slide with out having to force it so hard.

This is great!

A bunch of ours started crapping out lately, my instant fix has been to drive a screw with some paracord tied to it, not ideal, or pretty, but so far has only failed once. Lol

Maybe next time we make it to a decent sized town, we'll hit up a makerspace, and you!

That's some serious ingenuity right there lol. I wish I knew about that when I was trying to slide my window panes down to remove them which was required to do. I just stuck a knife into it and dragged it over damaging the already broken tab.