It looks really cool and is insulated really well however, this will all be covered lol
If you measure from window to the edge of the center piece between the sheets it is on stud width(about 1.5") from the WIDTH of a queen size bed, so all I will have to do to make a queen platform is fame from the front of the seats wall to wall and connect it to the flat portion in front of the window.
I did it this way because I wanted to have my bed horizontal to maximize the usable space, cause 18" on each side and the bed sticking way out would've made the room take up about 3 feet when you add the difference in length from width plus a walkway.
Doing that I had to remove the triangle metal piece that is identical to the one on the right of the picture, i unscrewed the screws and removed the piece then I cut the large section with my side angle grinder to fill the hole left in the flat part. I cut it to size and welded it in. Then I had to get another piece of steel to patch the outside of the bus with because that is a mesh screen engine bay vent(which had to be cut out also) I haven't yet but I am going to drill a thousand holes in the engine compartment door to replace the ventilation I removed.
That was a LOT of work, I'm super stoked about how it turned out but it was hard justifying it at the time haha I will say tho I'm 5'8" and wall to wall I will be able to lay down with about 1 inch to spare with my arms above my head after the upper walls/insulation go in, SO IF YOUR TALL forget about this modification unless you want to sleep diagonal in a queen haha
If you measure from window to the edge of the center piece between the sheets it is on stud width(about 1.5") from the WIDTH of a queen size bed, so all I will have to do to make a queen platform is fame from the front of the seats wall to wall and connect it to the flat portion in front of the window.
I did it this way because I wanted to have my bed horizontal to maximize the usable space, cause 18" on each side and the bed sticking way out would've made the room take up about 3 feet when you add the difference in length from width plus a walkway.
Doing that I had to remove the triangle metal piece that is identical to the one on the right of the picture, i unscrewed the screws and removed the piece then I cut the large section with my side angle grinder to fill the hole left in the flat part. I cut it to size and welded it in. Then I had to get another piece of steel to patch the outside of the bus with because that is a mesh screen engine bay vent(which had to be cut out also) I haven't yet but I am going to drill a thousand holes in the engine compartment door to replace the ventilation I removed.
That was a LOT of work, I'm super stoked about how it turned out but it was hard justifying it at the time haha I will say tho I'm 5'8" and wall to wall I will be able to lay down with about 1 inch to spare with my arms above my head after the upper walls/insulation go in, SO IF YOUR TALL forget about this modification unless you want to sleep diagonal in a queen haha
Sirdave
Member
Thank you for the pics and detailed description of the process, I had been wracking my brain trying to figure out what to do with all that lost space when every inch in a bus is valuable. I'll probably be back at you with more questions as soon as I get to that part, right now with limited time to work on it I'm still removing seats. But hey its not the destination but the journey that makes it fun.
True that man that was the most fun part cause it goes from a bus to this HUGE looking thing haha but yea I have more pics than that those are just the ones I had on Photobucket, so just lemme kno, I'll be asking for just as much help and don't mind throwing some pointers/ideas if I can help.
Sirdave
Member
Do you have a shot or 2 of the outside? I'm trying to envision how you moved the air breather.
Sirdave
Member
Just a couple of shots of how you moved or relocated the air breather in the engine compartment so you could remove the angled cover in the back of the bus on the inside. If that makes any sence what I'm asking lol.
In other news I removed and covered all of the windows that I'm getting rid of on the driver side of the bus today was very simple process and worked very well, rivets and galvanized trim coil cut to size and EXTREMELY flexible highly durable caulk, do not go cheap on the caulk, the bus flexes and twists slightly when going over bumps and things so you have to use quality caulk here. I probably used more than needed but I'd rather spend an extra $2.50 per window for half a tube of extra caulk than have a leak behind a wall and have to remove the wall to fix the leak. Just my two cents tho. Here's a couple pics, sorry it was getting dark when I finished up.
Ok saw someone talking about a "what not to do page" hahaha I have an addition for that page when it gets made. Trial by error here. Here is how NOT to properly cover a window with metal...
Look at the window to the right of the picture that is covered, so when measuring I decided to end the metal right at the edge of the opening on the top and bottom... terrible idea. I tried this way because the top of the opening is where the very thick metal 90 degree rain skirt is that stops water from rolling down the windows and I didn't want to drill through 4 layers of steel for each rivet... do it. It's just not good this way and took me about an hour to fix because I caulked the crap out of it. The size of the open hole was about 26.5" tall so I made all the rest of the sheets 29" which gave me 2.25" to river to the top of the windows. I did not rivet the bottom of the windows just the two sides and top because I wanted the panel to be able to flex with the bus, if I riveted all 4 sides the rivets would have just ripped out when the bus needed to flex because when the bus decides to flex a sheet of 1/32 steel is not going to hold it firm lol so I used lots of very good caulk at the bottom to give it superior flex ability and weatherproofing, I caulked inside and outside of windows, probably just need to caulk the outside but like I said earlier a tube of caulk is $6 so what's the harm in going extra to do both sides. Hope someone finds this useful.
Look at the window to the right of the picture that is covered, so when measuring I decided to end the metal right at the edge of the opening on the top and bottom... terrible idea. I tried this way because the top of the opening is where the very thick metal 90 degree rain skirt is that stops water from rolling down the windows and I didn't want to drill through 4 layers of steel for each rivet... do it. It's just not good this way and took me about an hour to fix because I caulked the crap out of it. The size of the open hole was about 26.5" tall so I made all the rest of the sheets 29" which gave me 2.25" to river to the top of the windows. I did not rivet the bottom of the windows just the two sides and top because I wanted the panel to be able to flex with the bus, if I riveted all 4 sides the rivets would have just ripped out when the bus needed to flex because when the bus decides to flex a sheet of 1/32 steel is not going to hold it firm lol so I used lots of very good caulk at the bottom to give it superior flex ability and weatherproofing, I caulked inside and outside of windows, probably just need to caulk the outside but like I said earlier a tube of caulk is $6 so what's the harm in going extra to do both sides. Hope someone finds this useful.
superdave-SKO
Senior Member
they put the intake up high so the dirt and debris from the tires doesnt get pulled into the breather. you could put a chase going up the outside of the bus and get some cleaner air. it wouldnt have to stick out far, a few inches would do. and keep the screen where it was. great job on the bed im putting mine up there also.This is the view just inside the door pictured above, looking up at the platform/to be bed area. It is welded in place from the inside of the bus, I just need to do some caulking on the underside here now.
Intake is on the other side, that is why I didn't remove the deiver side. This is passenger side, intake is on other side.
With the air cleaner being 7 feet away from that vent I'm not worried about it getting dirty. However if you are you can box it in on the side it is on by putting a similar plate to this one except it would have a hole with the intake pipe sticking up through it by the vent.
I happen to be a pretty qualified diesel mechanic tho and I am telling you this venting I will be doing in the rear here will have almost zero effect on the air intake. The mesh on this side(the side opposite of the intake) is simply to draw heat away from the engine and get some cross ventilation so are can be moved around engine/radiator/intercooler.
On another note I am thinking about installing a boost controlled water methanol injection system on my dt466 for a little added power/cooler egt's/better fuel burn. Cheap kits can be had for around 200-250 and the life of a diesel is all about keeping those egt's manageable when in high heat and heavy loads or hilly mountain terrain. Just a thought for anyone who thinks they are rolling around with a heavy gross vehicle weight. Don't install a water injection kit, it will dilute your oil, so meth/water mix is all I'm suggesting or alcohol but I'd stick with methanol.
I happen to be a pretty qualified diesel mechanic tho and I am telling you this venting I will be doing in the rear here will have almost zero effect on the air intake. The mesh on this side(the side opposite of the intake) is simply to draw heat away from the engine and get some cross ventilation so are can be moved around engine/radiator/intercooler.
On another note I am thinking about installing a boost controlled water methanol injection system on my dt466 for a little added power/cooler egt's/better fuel burn. Cheap kits can be had for around 200-250 and the life of a diesel is all about keeping those egt's manageable when in high heat and heavy loads or hilly mountain terrain. Just a thought for anyone who thinks they are rolling around with a heavy gross vehicle weight. Don't install a water injection kit, it will dilute your oil, so meth/water mix is all I'm suggesting or alcohol but I'd stick with methanol.
Where in Indiana
Hello!
Just curious what part of Indiana your in? I live in Fishers Indiana and would love to meet some locals that are like minded in that they are in the process of purchasing, converting or have one completed. I am in the process of just now doing all of my due diligence.
Thanks in advance for any response!
Hello!
Just curious what part of Indiana your in? I live in Fishers Indiana and would love to meet some locals that are like minded in that they are in the process of purchasing, converting or have one completed. I am in the process of just now doing all of my due diligence.
Thanks in advance for any response!
I'm in terre haute, fishers is about an hour and 15 away I believe maybe an hour and 5 if traffic all works perfect for you haha I wish I knew someone who had a completed one that I could get my eyes on. There isn't enough pics and info on plumbing and electrical on here. As in how large battery banks for how long you wanna boondock and how much solar and how much water will last with x amount of ppl also, kinda frustrating haha
I own a small construction company and have some experience as a diesel mechanic but I am by no means an bus conversion expert lol I just figured I kno how to build a house, I kno how to fix a diesel, so why not build a diesel house hahahaha I'm also an undercover hippie so I'm all into road trippin and festivals and such but if I can help I'll try...
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